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As some of you know, I purchased a Platinum set for my kids for Christmas. After initially setting it up to try it out it appeared there wasn't enough track inlcuded, so I bought more off E-bay. Then I bought a police car, SSDC cable, re-arranged a room, built tables, etc, etc. Yes this stuff is addictive!


The set has been a hit with the kids, especially the Alfa Romeo police car with the flashing lights and sirens! Hopefully my link to the photo works, let me know what you think of my first track, designed with UR3.0. The table is L-shaped, with two 6 ft. X 8 ft. tables side by side and a third 4 ft. X 8 ft. table on the end. The bridges are hand-made by me using some 1 X 3 pine and some misc. scraps of wood, then painted with a grey splatter paint to try and simulate a concrete finish (made those Christmas Eve day in a hurry!).

The cars have taken a beating; mirrors are off, wings are broke and the cars already have lots of rub marks on them but I knew those parts would break easily and overall I am really impressed with the set. It does what it is supposed to, and for my family of five, it allows everyone to race together simultaneously so there are no arguements about who is next to race. Now if I could just get everyone to settle on a different car


Anyhow, my SSDC cable showed up yesterday (thanks for the quick turnaround RikoRocket!) and tonight I finally had time to get it all hooked up and working. Great job on the software BTW, I will send payment soon!

I do have a couple of questions, first on the SSDC Pacer function: I have run several laps with one of the cars to gather the lap info then attempted to use the pacer function and race against it, but the same car, set to pace, seems to be running faster at the elevated hairpin turn and generally falls off there almost every lap. Possibly I don't have something set up correctly in the software?

The other question is a general one: I have noticed that the cars seem to slow down a bit at certain areas of the track; I believe this may be because the axles are binding in the turns (someone needs to make a limited slip differential for these things!) but possibly it may be due to poor connections in the track? Some of my track is used and is a bit tarnished, what is the easiest way to get it looking new again? A guy at the local slot car place sold me "Tiger Milk" for the brushes, is this stuff any good?

Lots of other questions but this is enough for one email. Appreciate any assistance guys!

 

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Greg Gaub
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15,347 Posts
Just one reply of many to come, I'm sure...

First off, nice track! careful about having the APB in that spot, though. A fast driver might drift a little and miss a lap. Best to move that to where those two controllers are laying on the table, where the track comes out from the overpass. That way cars are nice and straight.

For the tarnished rails, the Tiger Milk might work ok. I've never used it, but I know it's used as a braid conditioner in 1/24 scale racing, so it probably does something. A lot of us prefer INOX MX3, which seems to negate the effects of rail tarnish, often cleaning it up quite well in the process. You can get it from a variety of sites such as Amazon, 132slotcar.us and others. Some hardware stores might even carry it. The slow-downs might be from bad connections, though. With the track off, twist a coin in the slot right at the join, back and forth a few times, several pieces before and after the slow spots. If it gets bad, or the next time you change the layout, follow the tips in the SlotForum resources "slap my slot car" track maintenance section for crimping the connectors. After that, you get into power jumpers to help distribute the current, bypassing bad track connectors.

For the pacer thing, try recording new laps with dynamic brakes turned OFF. That way you're coasting more, and are less likely to take that hairpin with last second braking.

While you're learning, be sure to run the tires on sandpaper to get them more grip, and turn back the folded up bit of braid so that both ends are pointing to the rear of the car. This will make them last longer and work better.
 

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You bought this for you kids, but too bad its for you now lol. nice track !!! when can i come over to race? When I have kids I plan to get them into slot cars so we can all have family time together.
I see those 6 cars multiplying like rabbits in the next few weeks and months though. You're going to need more shelves....
Congrats !!
 

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Last Place is my Place
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573 Posts
nice layout mate, i agree with mrF about the powerbase (and everything else), also i recomend moving the crossover on the bridge to the end of the straight for the same reason (drifting cars may miss the sensor)
and is Baird's car winning all the races (its the darker Pourshe)?
 

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Andrew Wallace
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1,100 Posts
Nice track! Are you sure that its for the kids


Completely agree with Mr.F about Inox M3. A small wipe of the rails, and the cars will run very smoothly. Re: pacers - have you mastered constant throttle pacers first? Its well worth the effort, and in many cases, they can be as good value. The variable pacers don't replay braking yet (need to refine that), so you need to make sure that you record the cars with the brakes off - coasting round the corners as Mr.F suggests.
 

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Thanks guys, I was actually pretty proud of the layout for a first-timer! Appreciate all the info as well.

I have actually noticed the computer miss a lap and wondered if it was a glitch in the system...I must have been power-sliding the car badly coming out of that chicane and missed that sensor!


I was checking out the Compuware Corvette today on Ebay and my oldest daughter commented how nice it looked...then I was thinking a couple of F1 cars might run the fastest around the track and would be nice to have? Maybe you guys could share some opinions on your favorites.

I've managed some low 5 second laps on the track already; the red Porsche seems to run the best of all my cars. At the same power level it pulls away slightly down the straights, and generally just runs smoother around the track than the others. I noticed the Lambo's have wider back tires, maybe with some more practice on those cars I can get my times down below 5 seconds. With clean tires these things really stick to the track well...I have been using rubbing alcohol on the tires, and it makes quite a difference. Now my oldest daughter wants hers cleaned all the time! I haven't trued them up with sandpaper yet but I will do that soon.

Re: the pacer feature, the variable throttle function was actually one of the things I was looking forward to the most with SSDC since I am finding it quite easy to beat the pace car at constant throttle due to it needing to be low enough so the car won't fly off the elevated turn. I did check that my recordings were done with brakes off, tried a different car tonight and I am getting the same result. It seems like the system is not using the throttle recording info at the proper time - the car speeds up the first straight toward the elevated turn at high speed and flys off the track every time. I did notice my lap recordings only show 90-94% throttle input (it varies by lap) when I actually have the trigger pressed all the way, could this have anything to do with it? I also tried playing with the target lap times, increasing them by a few seconds over what the recordings showed and also no change.

If I record a lap at, say, 80% power then use that same car as a pacer, does its max power have to be set at 80% as well? I tried changing the max throttle percentage on the pace car but it didn't seem to have any effect. Basically, I get 1 lap out of the pace car at the start speed then it flys off the curve.
 

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Andrew Wallace
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1,100 Posts
Pacers record and replay absolute throttle positions, so there is no need to mess with power settings etc. The reason why it is recording 90-94% throttle when you have the trigger fully depressed is because SSDC has limited your power most likely because of your fuel load and car settings.
One thing to make sure is that your pacer starts with enough initial speed for the first corner. Set the pacer back up the track a little from the powerbase, and set a higher than normal start speed. You have to try and create the "flying lap" speed over the powerbase for the initial lap too.
 

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Administrator
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There are some bugs in the firmware installed in the powerbase, if you go to the SSDC site and download the updater tool and latest firmware 1.006 that will address a whole host of things.
 
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