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Mike
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629 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Arches removed brake ducts removed its going to be a road version
first coat of paint Flame red , looks a bit pink in the picture
any help critism appreciated
Mike
 

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Kitbasher
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4,378 Posts
Hi, if your camera has a 'macro' mode you need to use it as you have moved in too close for the focal length...

If you don't have macro (a little flower sign) then take a step back so the camera can get a focus.
 

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It's still a bit fuzzy. Can you adjust the file size and picture quality on your camera? Turn it all up as high as possible. Also, are you using the built in flash? If so then try using softer light - anglepoise or similar - at an angle to the car and putting your camera on a tripod. Or taking it outside on a sunny day. If we ever have one this summer! Looking good from what I can make out though. What paint are you using? Airbrush or rattle can? What's your method? I'm building something at the moment and I think I'm happy with the top coat (2 coats of primer, rubbed down, 2 mist coats, micromeshed and two further top coats, micromeshed again between coats) and next step will be Klear, decals and more Klear.
 

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Kitbasher
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Pic 3 much better
Probably still a wee bit close to your subject.

Tip- set the camera on a rolled up sweater/books whatever so that the shot is ready to take.
Now set the camera to timer delay and stand back
Voilla - no camera shake!

I use this a lot because - I shake a lot...

This one taken a wee bit too close - so it has a little bit of a blur basically all cameras have a close up limit, even on macro and if you get too close, as I did here, it can't focus sharply.

Hope this helps, looking forward to seeing more of the build.

 

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its prob to late now but red paint is very thin if u spray over white primer ,spray the colour into the tin cap and brush it in to the shut lines only allow it to dry then spray it and it should stop the white bleeding through as seen in the pics hope it helps
 

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QUOTE (Graham Lane @ 6 Aug 2011, 08:40) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>What about brushing black into the shut lines before spraying. Would that work guys?

There's some 'spirited debate' (a.k.a. name calling/hair pulling) about this in the aviation modelling world at present. For a long time it's been the hardcore modeller's standard to squirt black into the panel lines and then paint thin coats over the top to bring a bit of depth to the finished product.

It does produce spectacular results, but whether it makes a more accurate representation of 1:1 or is simply a means of showing modelling skill is the moot point at present. Personally it's way beyond my skill level, but nice to look at nevertheless!

Here's a recent 1/48 Hurricane with black 'undies' on...

 

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Mike
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629 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
1 I have now got a 3 inch tall tripod so next pic should be better

2 Its only the first coat so hopefully I can do something about the white shut lines

3 clips are beyond thier best and some are broken

4 washes start to frighten me I haven't got that good yet

5 Glad that black shut lines are beyond someone else as well

More pics to follow hopefully this week before Holidays
Thanks for all the help and advice
Mike
 

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Promodellers washed couldn't be simpler - I promise. I'm certainly no expert at finishes but these water based washes are simply brushed into panel or shut lines that you want to highlight and you wipe away the excess. Because they're water based (and this is why I like them) if you don't like the end result - too much, too little - you just wipe it off with a damp rag. There are different colours as well so you can get a nice subtle shut line. The Promodellers' site has a great tutorial video too.

Good news about the tripod - it will help you a lot. Use the self timer so that you don't have to press the shutter button and you'll get an even better result.
 

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If you want to ad panel lines like they use to do in the plastic modeling world you should do it in following sequence:
1. apply your base coat let say we take red
2. apply a thin coat of gloss varnish
3. put your decals on(you can use Micro Sol and Sed, it softens the decals and let it slip perfect into the panel lines)
4. take artist oil paint (tubes), now it is important to mix the oil paint into the right shade, don't use pure black, it's to hard. For a red underground I would suggest black mixed with white and red. I would advice trying it out on a tester that you've painted along with the underground color of the body, so you can test on it until the wanted result is achieved. I also advice to mix in oil paint dryer, it lets the oil paint dry quickly, because otherwise it takes to long for the paint to dray.
5. then put the oil paint with a thin brush into the panel lines and wipe every extra away. Do this strait away after every line.
6. you even can put more dept to the lines by accenting them by wiping a glow of pastel chalk next to the line with a ear cotton
7 finely when you achieved the result you want, spray a new layer varnish over the model, gloss or mat whatever result you want to have.
The best advice I can give you is to experiment on a testing under ground
Good luck
 

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Hi Mike,

In an effort to achieve a natural 'shut line', I tend to spend time carefully carving out the detail lines with a craft knife (equiped with a fresh new blade), just working away slowly until ending up with a nice, fine deep channel. This will leave the model with a natural shadow within the shut lines after spraying.



Hope this is helpful!

Dave
 

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Hi Mike,

I would show you my aston martin db4 gtz. It´s also based on such a wonderful gp-miniatures kit. It`s the le mans version from ´61.
( the color of the paintwork- green- it´s to dark.......)





May be the pics could be some information for your work..........

kind regards

claus
 

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Mike
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629 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
further progress some of the glazing in complete with sausage finger thumbprints, shut lines done with a dark wash, some silver xmas pen around headlights.
The wheels are not the final ones
Mike
 
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