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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I made the switch to no magnets and love the new feel of the cars. It's like having new cars. I've been using lead tape for weight. I know there's a difference between cars. (CG) I've read articles but I figured you guys can help. If anyone has a Fly Porche GT1 EVO please reply. I have a Carrera track and the car ran ok but it needed weight up front. (tires PPR) So, I put some weight up front. Again and again. First, how do I keep the front from poping out in a turn. It doesn't happen often but I need to slow down more than I want. Leaving the turn I have a control fish tail but I'm losing ground to the other car. The question is how much weight do I put in the rear. Should the car fish tail every time you are in a turn? If you put to much weight wouldn't it fish tail even worse when you hit the break point?

Thanks

I hope this makes sense.

Tony
 

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Get rid of the weight you dont need it. Replace front tyres with PinkKar skinnies and it`ll stay in the slot better. You could also change the guide to the fly deeper type as supplied for the Fly race prepared Porsche GT1. Good luck mate.
 

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Graham Windle
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4,442 Posts
The gt 1 shouldnt need a lot doing to it to get it to run well ,
There are 2 trains of thought as to set up 1 is all 4 wheels should touch and roll 2 is the tripod theory which means the car runs only on the guide and the rear wheels ,when the car is on the straight .I prefer the secon option as it will always offer more grip and better pick up .The gt 1 will run well with a bare minimum of weight ,you dont say what motor you have in ,we run sub 8 secs with these at pendle on wood 118 ft with out any weight .Take a look at the set up guide on my web site
SLOTCARBUILDER
if you must use weight a bit behind the guide and a bit either in front of the rear tyres or under the rear axle is enough.
If you are using a motor like the scale auto 35000 ,take it out and put something slower in you will go faster as the available power will go on to the track and not be lost in wheels spin.The ppr tyrs willgive you tremendous grip but could also be the reason for the front end lifting ,asuming your braids are flat.we usuualy find proslot rubber reated with 3 in one oil gives all the grip you will need.
Hope this helps If you need any thing more in depth my please email me
Graham
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Grahm, I'm using the motor that comes with the car. I took all the weight off except the front. I rubbed the rear tires down with WD-40 and it works well. Thanks for the info. I'm enjoying this part of the hobby, but not having a hobby store where I live makes it hard. You come up with an idea and you have to wait until your order comes in.

Thanks Tony
 

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Graham Windle
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4,442 Posts
Tony ,
Ive fixed the link so you should get through now.glad the cars better now.
Jimmy ,
what part of greece are you in ,my wife and I were in Halkidiki ealier this year and saw no sign of any scalex type stuff any where ,it looks difficicult for you to get any racing action in or did I get to much metaxa and sun and miss every thing.
we are planning to return early in 2004 on a property search.
Graham
 

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Graham,
I'm further north in Volos. You can find it on a map if you picture Greece as the human body. Volos would be the anus. The city has lost allot since the National Highway bypassed it. If your looking for property why not go to Portugal or even Turkey the prices are much cheaper. Maybe you just like the Ouzo?
Seriously, there's a Scalextric dealer in Athens but the prices are way too high. He clains to have an organized club but I haven't been able to connect up when I've been down that way. I play by myself nowdays and tune cars for lap time. I usually try to enter Proxy races so I can get a feel for how well my cars work. It's not much but all that I got right now. My wife and I had a small club a couple years ago but since she passed away it went away plus everyone moved away(maybe I should take a bath more). Got a couple of young guys interested so maybe something will form up. Next time you're through Athens you can try the dealer there. He has a site at: http://www.kalfakis.gr/enter.htm I haven't been to the store so I don't know what he has.

Scatman,
I think Graham may be right about the rear tires causing the front end problem. Too much grip can cause the front to be pushed up in some turns. I changed the guide on my EVO to a TSRF unit. The brushes are better and you get the extra depth. You can also add thin spacers between the guide and chassis to set the ride height and remove weight from the front axle. This can help with the front end problem. I don't think I had any problems with the front of my EVO after I changed the guide and I use the same tires on Artin track.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Some good points Jim. I ordered some guides and other items. Looking forward to setting up the car usining your advice and Graham's. I'll keep you psoted.

Tony
 

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Graham Windle
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Tony
the tsrf guide is a great option as it has quick change braids but the slot it guide can be fitted without cutting the chassis and is just as deep ,but if thats not a problem the tsrf guide will be better as it is a leading guide as oposed to a trailing one and will probably give more predictable handling,it would be my choice if our club allowed them.

Jim Ill drop you an email when we come out again might be able to save you some postage on bits you might want from pendle.

Graham
 

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By the way don't be afraid to shorten the TSRF guide if on particular car like the FLYLolaB98. You can and still fit the brushes reliably. If you get to that point and need specific instruction let me know and I'll write something up for you.
Graham,
Thanks for the offer. Let me know when you will be my way.

Jim
 

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mac pinches
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2,154 Posts
hi tony if you run on a wooden track you do not need wieght, on plastic, a little helps just behind the guide{not too much} as graham said tyres should be pro-slot with a little 3in1 oil or as i use fly " d " compound with oil, dont forget to put a little rad on the edge of the tyre to stop it digging in on corners, the rear axle on the fly porsche needs some work, change the gears to slot-it with large dia slot-it wheels,make up 2 sets of wheels, 1 with pro-slots, 1 with fly "d " compounds see wich is best. if you use a 10 tooth pinion and a 24 tooth crown wheel this smooths out the cars handling and gives a more predictable car, in the porsche chalange at pendle last month this was producing sub 8 second laps, hope this helps cheers mac p
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update. I bought a Slot-it Axle set-up for a Fly car and Guide. I used a 10 tooth pinion and PPR tires. What type of Pro Slot tires are you talking about. Mac you right about rounding the edges of the rear tires. The PPR tires really grip the track. Just trying to figure out what to use to do the task with out damaging the tires.

Oh yes, the car handles well.

Thanks

TOny
 

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Graham Windle
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Hey Mac nice to see you make an appearance on the board.As for putting a rad onthe ppr tyres 80 grit carbourundum paper and a lot of time and perserverance ,they are very tough .
Graham
 

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HI Mac

Jon s at Phoenix. Good to see you hear mate. Do you know if thePPR tyres mentioned about contain resin? I wondered because I`ve seen the dust after sanding and was worried because it`s dangerous?
 

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Scatman,
mac is right about the 10 tooth pinion if your running on fairly large layouts with longer straights. From your post on parts I understood that your layout was more "technical" in nature. If this is true, I would go to a higher (numeric) ratio using a smaller pinion (fewer teeth). You may have to experiment a little here since motor torque / rpm, tires, weight and several other factors can have a profound inpact on the ratio that works best for your type of driving.

I have found a fingernail emory board works fairly well for rounding tires including the PPR type.

Jim
 

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If you mean 8 tooth with a slotit gear I'd have to say yes and no. Slotit makes pinion gears that are the same diameter with different numbers of teeth. So, the mesh using the auto align trough in the crown is always the same. If you go to a FLY 8 tooth I believe the gear diameter is slightly smaller (though I'd have to check it at home to be sure). That being true, then the mesh may not be good using the auto aligh feature of the crown gear. If you really want to use the FLY pinion then you would have to shorten the motor shaft to disengage the crown trough then use axle shims to set the gear mesh (this is the way gears are suppose to be set in reality; the autoalign makes it easy for kids and old people like me). That seems like allot of work just to save a couple bucks. Why not use the slotit 8 tooth and not worry about it.
Sometimes the diameter of the pinion does not change enough to cause gear mesh problems I'm not sue in the case of the FLY 8 tooth with Slotit crown. One more point, though I interchange Slotit gears both pinions and crowns with other mfgrs products all the time, I believe Slotit does not recommend it.

This is one of the problems with swapping pinions of different sizes. Since Eurocar gears have an auto align slot you must make sure that the pinion diameter allows proper mesh if you want to use this feature. Some mfgrs sell gear sets that vary the crown auto align trough to gear teeth distance. Cartrix makes an 8 tooth for standard crowns; P/N 118E and a 10 tooth; P/N1110E. Thes will fit any of the crowns made for a 9 tooh pinion. Reprotec makes pinions of 8,9,&10 in standard diameter if I'm not mistaken.

If you're going to spend the money for slotit gears you may want to look at Sonic 64pitch gears. They don't have an autoalign feature and must be set using axle spacers but they offer an almost unlimited selection of ratios at a similar price. The advantage is smooth mesh, and smaller size. They are 3.32" like Slotit. Check with Radtrax or FW or similar in U.S. ABSlot in UK and maybe Pentle but not sure.

Jim
 

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Hi

the "auto align" feature is the one used on the cars where the motor prop shaft rides in a slot on the gear to supply the mesh. Besides the excess loads on the motor, this also does not always do a good job at gear mesh, so, I space the gears in any case.
As for "Tripods"...when the fronts carry weight, this often causes odd appearing problems with rear traction and suddenly popping out of the slot. Open up the axle mount so that the front flots(see the current Fly Lola 98). Add a thin spacer, usually .010" on the guide will do the job and it will astound you how many "bad habits" suddenly disappear.

Fate
 
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