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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

Have been discussing with fellow competitor JJR about the construction of our small proxy cars. Hit a couple of snags...

What's everyones preferred methods of mounting trailing guides?

And methods for mounting resin and plastic bodies?

Pictures would be great


Cheers guys

McLaren
 

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Oh, and can anyone help me out with an windscreen for this:


Courtesy of Pendle Slot Racing

Do you know where to get one? Or do you have access to a vacforming machine that could make one?

Cheers again,

Mclaren
 

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Alan Tadd
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I've got one you can have, and can also help out with your other questions, just give me chance to get my camera back off my son.
Uni Students are all the same!!!.

Regards

Alan

PS Drop me a PM with your address.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Will Mark Gussin's site's URL be revealed?

Cheers Beejay


I've actually done the guide now... after making a couple of guide tongues I realised I couldn't be assed with the work and cut up a Ninco chassis front end.

This mounts the front axel and the guide in one and looks okay. I'm testing tonight and might even get some pictures up for you...

McLaren

PS. Still need help on body mounting...
 

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mac pinches
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hi mclaren the method i use is to take a piece of plastic rod, drill 1 end to take the mounting screw , then attach these to the chassis first, make the plastic rod slightly longer than requiered so that the body stands slightly too high on the chassis, keep reducing the post till the body is in the correct position, then epoxy glue the posts to the upper side of your body, when the epoxy has set remove the chassis scews, withdraw the chassis, then put a fillet of epoxy around the post where it meets the body, to try to make the chassis fit after the posts are fitted is a pain. hope this helps mac p
 

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I have mounted bodies using the following method:
Make the body post's as described by mackp then mount them on to the chassis, offer the chassis to the body untill it sit's at the correct height and square. You will require a hot glue gun and some quick reactions for the next stage, when the glue is hot squirt some on the end of each of your body post then press the chassis into the correct posistion in the body, if you get it wrong just pull it back out and peel the glue off and start again. When you have got it right let it set and then unscrew the chassis leaving the posts in there place, if you are happy with the position of the posts you can start to build some hot glue around the contact point of the post and body, squirt around the post then wait a few seconds and with your finger
smear the glue around the post, you get used to the pain after a while!
I have used this method on several cars without any problems, the post will take quite a bit of punishment without coming off as the bonding will flex under impact, also they are easy to remove if you want to change things.
[oneofwos]
 

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I use a similar mounting method, the only real difference being that I use a plastic tube for the post which I sleeve with a metal tube so that the screw can't split the plastic. Cut post a little over length and screw to chassis. Put glue on end of post, place body on and turn upside down until dry (overnight). Unscrew, add extra glue/filler to joint then trim to correct length.

Photos and a little more info here.
 

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Another little body mounting trick I'm fond of is telescopic tubes- use two sizes of plastic tube that slide smoothly, glue the large dia. one into the body, attach the smaller dia to the chassis with the usual screws, then slide in place until the body sits just right for tyre clearance. Then you can run a little superglue in to lock the tubes in place, and then reinforce afterwards with metal collets, epoxy fillets etc. as described above. Works a treat.
 

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Brian Ferguson
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I like Mac's method plus Jak's addition of the metal tube (brass for me) epoxied during the final "glue down" phase. I prefer epoxy over other adhesives, it just seems to be stronger to me. But yes, mount the posts to the chassis first, then tack in place after test fitting the body, then lock it in!

Of course, I also stick pins through bodies now and then....
 

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Alan Tadd
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QUOTE Of course, I also stick pins through bodies now and then...

That explains the pains in my back!....

I also use a similar method to Howmet, on resin bodies.

On plastic Balsa wood blocks

On Lexan ....pins

Regards

Alan
 

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Brian Ferguson
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QUOTE That explains the pains in my back!....

I never mentioned the little dolls I make?
Silly omission on my part!


 

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I remember the days when you could get nice little brass screws and matching, threaded brass sockets for them to screw into. The outside of the socket was slightly knurled and could be press fitted (and glued if necessary) into suitable holes drilled in pretty well anything, as well as the ubiquitous plastic posts. The beauty of it was that the nasty tendency for a self tapping screw to screw up whatever it is being screwed into was completely eliminated. I still have a few floating around in my 35 year old bits'n'pieces box. I think Revell supplied them and it's a shame they aren't any longer available - or are they?
 

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MRRC still make these - I've bought more than a few from Sean fairly recently.

Try looking under MRRC spare parts:
MC-4000 BODY MOUNTING INSERTS x3 (Ferrari 275P etc)
MC-4001 FIXING SCREWS FOR FERRARI 275P x3

I normally use them inserted into plastic tube mounted on the body as described by John below.

Paul
 
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