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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello lads

I´m a new member and have recently discovered my Scalextric track again. And
how much fun it is to build scenery and race. However i have a problem that i really dont know how to solve, so i would appriciate some help or at least guidelines. The problem i have is the controll over the cars when i am using the "handle". The "handle" can´t "feed" the cars with electricity in a smoth way. ( i´m sorry for my bad enlglish, but i still hope that you know what i mean regarding the "handle"). It´s possible that this has ben up on the forum before, but since i dont know the correct word fore the ...here we go again.."handle", i have not ben able to find anything about it here. Does my problem has anything to do with my current power, or is it just a bad "handle" ? i should also mention that it came with my track when it was bought. i would appriciate some help here..anyway...thank you in advance

regards

Eric
 

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Hi Eric

The handle is commonly refered to as a controller.
If your problems are consistent on all your cars I think an aftermarket controller could solve them.
Stock Scalextric Sport controllers are rated at 60 Ohms (I'm not sure if the Classic controllers are the same), and this gives a more on/off feeling than a controller with a lower Ohm rating (or an electric controller).

Personally I use 25 Ohm on my controllers, but that is just a personal preference, and might not be the best for you and the cars you use.

There is more information about aftermarket controllers here and here, that might be useful in deciding what is the best for you.

André
 

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Thank you, i really appriciate you helping me out here. And yes Roadkill it feels like i´m driving a car with a Turbo
..nothing at first and then..full speed.
Also thank you for the links you gave me regarding the controller. Time to "trash" my old controllers and replace them with 25 Ohm Parma controllers as Nuro recommended...
 

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25 is too much, 35 is ok, but i find any de mag car hard to drive with it. i have heard that you can make ur controller more sensitive by soldering a 10/20 ohm 10 watt wirewound resistor from the on section of the resistor to the full throttle part. while were here, do you think a 40 ohm red fox controller would be good for a second controller? rather than a 45ohm parma? because 1 i dont want to change resistor everytime i change car and 2 the red fox can do 40 rather than the parma 45, i only want a slight drop in sesitivity

sorry for hijacking this thread larsson
 

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Personally as a home mag racer, I find 25ohms too much the other way (touch the trigger and the car is at full speed); for most of my cars 40 ohms or 45 ohms seems best.

I use scalex sport track and 1 scalex transformer per lane.
 

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Slot City
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Eric,

What track system do you have? Classic or Sport?

If its over a few years old its likely to be Classic.

If so, I'd suggest that you start by converting to a Sport power system (power base, transformer, controllers). This has a couple of benefits over the Classic version - optional seperate power supply for each lane (if you get two transformers) plus braking. Its possible there is a fault with your current system, which could be causing a problem.

Once you've got the Sport power system, if you're still having problems go for something like the Parma Economy 45ohm controller (though the Fly controllers are also worth a look). I wouldn't go for anything lower than that, to begin with at least.

Jon,
Slot City.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hello again


Compound goose. No problem, don´t mind you "hijacking this thread". i need all the help i can get.

Slotcity. The track system i am using is Classic, it´s old but still in a fair condition. But you are probebly right...i will look at the Sport power system it sounds much better, you also "talked" about "breaking"
i ben away from slot racing for some time and i need to get up to date on things. So what is "breaking" and how does it work ?

Thank you all for taking the time to help me out here.


regards

Eric
 

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Slot City
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The idea is that when you take you finger off the throttle, the car slows down / stops a lot quicker than it normally would - ie a braking effect (the same as on a real car). It is achieved via a third wire from the controller to the power base - Sport and other systems have it but Classic didn't.

We have a lot of customers with Classic track, and always recommend the Sport power system as the first upgrade - it is well worth it for the money (about £20 for the power base and controllers, then £10 for the transformer). With the second upgrade being a second transformer.

Either way, if you go for third party hand controllers (Parma, Professor Motor, Red Fox, Fly etc), make sure you get the right one for your powerbase - unless you are happy re-wiring it.

Jon,
Slot City.
 

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Thank you for the explanation slotcity
. And based on what you have written and explained it is surely time for a "serious" upgrade, hopefully that will solve the problems i currently have with the track.

Eric
 
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