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Guys

just to adding my 2 cents.... I have been running the TSRF chassis on my routed track for a while now and have seen no shorting problem with the pin guide set up.. and the same is true while running it on the plastic tracks......

I think the main reason for this is 1) keeping the braid at the right length. and that the center section of the chassis is not metal......

But there is away around this on a metal chassis..... I do a lot of scratch building and use the Slot-it reouted track guide a lot...... but the guide and braid extend under the bottom of the chassis..... So to stop any shouting I just clear coat the bottom of the chassis and I have not had a short to date.......

After looking at that chassis I have no problem with the pin guide set up and to cure any shorting issues I would just paint or clear coat the botton of the chassis..
I know that it has worked for me.........

Chris......
 

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Mecoprop

So far I have run the TSRF on my routed track, not a big layout only 43 foot 4 lane track, A commercial track and on Carrera, Ninco/Scalex classic mix.... And have not had problems with contact or shorting on any of them...

The braid spreads out a good deal and makes good contact on all the tracks....

But you do bring up a good point on the tail out driving.... Yes, you have to drive the car a bit different than with a regular guide set up..... You have to LEARN the max you can slide the car out...... Once you go too far the car just stops..... Not for shorting reasons but you have lost contact with the braids..... Once you learn the limits of the car, it is almost as fast as my scratch built chassis on my routed track...

<<Some HO guys even adapt their cars to use orthodox 1/32 style guides - there has to be a reason why they would do this.>>

I think the reason that some of the HO guys go with the "Slide guide" system is to be able to run on 1/32 tracks..... I tired one on my routed track and the damn cars are just too small for these old eyes to see


Chris.....
 
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