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Nice to read you here Tim.
My inputs:
pin in stead of blade has the risk of short circuits when a car drifts - I don't like that!

No adjustable height of the Chassis

3/32-axles - there are excellent parts available from SlotIt! Don't invent the wheel twice

Only as inliner-configuration possible
- so we've to remove all the details from our beloved 1/32 rtr's if we want to try this chassis

No brass bearings - and this in a time where all major manufacturers move away from Nylon...

We've to use distance bushings to keep the axles in place...
Sorry, it seems I'm not a potential customer for this chassis...
 

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Hi Tim,

this has been an extreme quick response

About pin-guides - I personally have not seen one up to today which is working properly on differnt tracks - and I'm driving routed / Carrera / Ninco with the same cars! Im not a friend of too long braids - but have seen short circuits to know that they have to been avoided if you're supplying battery power to the track - you're just welding down your car!
For inline-configuration - look at the actual cars - motor moved to the front to allow fully detailled cockpits! I would expect, that your chassis should replace the ones used in rtr-cars - and the biggest need is for replacing Fly-chassis - imho...
Most of these cars are sidewinders or inline-front....
If you're usind the TSRF-wheels and parts it's fine! They are on teh same level like slot-it!
But about Nylon-bearings - they are too weak and won't last! A well maintained car with brass bearings is always faster! Would you invest for a new chassis if the exchange of Nylon to brass-bearings is cheaper and makes your car faster?
It's my opinion - based on my personal experience - and should help you to release a useable chassis! Best way to do that is to discuss within the different communities - and that's welcomed! Go on like that!
 
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