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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It was a nasty, dreary day today and I decided to venture out to check on a hollow core door and material to get started on the raceway.
I gave myself a $1000.00 budget for this project and thought it was a great day for it.
I'm celebrating my 8 yr divorce tomorrow and I started early today.

Ordered a AFX international set off eBay, some fence and some extra cars. Also picked up 2 controllers that were an upgrade for the stock ones that are in the set.

Looking forward to getting started, but I still haven't settled on a track plan for a 36 x 80 door with the 4 lanes. Right now I have 2 options, the tuckaway 25 and another plan that I have saved. It wasn't named and I can't remember where I found it.

If anyone has some ideas or suggestions for me please feel free to give me some ideas. I want to keep it flat but I want it to be a challenge also.

Thanks,
CB
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is the variation on the Tuckaway 25 that I started with. It provides a more challenging infield section. I have since extended the straightaway lengths.

That was the other plan that I had. If you built this one before, with those controller attachment track section in the middle of the layout, how did you do your wiring. I have a few ideas for what I want to do with that situation, since I am going to use upgrade controllers.

Thanks,
CB
 

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I moved the terminal track sections to the outside edge (top of diagram) For the inside lanes, I simply passed the wires under the track. Not graceful but effective.

I have since added some 40" plywood to gain a little more width and extended the length out onto another small table.
I am now using connector blocks and simple driver stations for the wiring, so I cut the wires leaving the connectors on one end and dropped them down through drilled holes and to the connector block underneath. Wiring goes out from there to where the controllers clip on with alligator clips. You could drill larger holes and pass the connectors up through from below, too.



This is where I am at now.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I moved the terminal track sections to the outside edge (top of diagram) For the inside lanes, I simply passed the wires under the track. Not graceful but effective.

I have since added some 40" plywood to gain a little more width and extended the length out onto another small table.
I am now using connector blocks and simple driver stations for the wiring, so I cut the wires leaving the connectors on one end and dropped them down through drilled holes and to the connector block underneath. Wiring goes out from there to where the controllers clip on with alligator clips. You could drill larger holes and pass the connectors up through from below, too.



This is where I am at now.

Thanks for the reply and for sharing the photos.

Thanks
CB
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think that I will be going to pick up my door and trim lumber today. I briefly looked at the carpet tiles with the self adhesive backing yesterday. Not very impressed with the thickness of what I saw. Will continue to look.
I also considered a sheet of 1/8 rubber mat with the thin carpet tiles that I saw yesterday. If I can find a commercial grade carpet tile in green that is acceptable, I will let everyone know.
Many ideas, got to get a notebook and start writing things down.

I guess my next question would be about car storage. Does everyone just use the Plano plastic boxes with the adjustable dividers?

Thanks for following along,
CB
 

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It's hard to go wrong with the Plano 3600 series boxes. This specific one fits slot cars well.


They make an array of larger modular boxes that fit these 3600 boxes. And there are other flavors of the 3600 box that have different divider configurations. I use those other ones for tools.

Here are some examples of the larger boxes.


 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's hard to go wrong with the Plano 3600 series boxes. This specific one fits slot cars well.


They make an array of larger modular boxes that fit these 3600 boxes. And there are other flavors of the 3600 box that have different divider configurations. I use those other ones for tools.

Here are some examples of the larger boxes.


Thanks for the reply. I've got more Plano boxes with fishing lures than HO slotcar stuff in the apartment than you can imagine.
 

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This is the variation on the Tuckaway 25 that I started with. It provides a more challenging infield section. I have since extended the straightaway lengths.

I tried to reproduce that layout in Tracker 2000, but I couldn't get it join up perfectly. Maybe I misidentified a few corners?

In any case, the first track I built when I made my table was a version of the Tuckaway 25. I started with this layout, and the tweaked the lengths for my table.

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I really didn't like the quick direction changes at the transition from 9" to 6" radius turns (blue to red left-right or right-left in the drawing above). It was just too frustrating to navigate. I think the overall shape is good, but I would not build a track with those tight transitions.

Looking at the layout Steve-E-D posted, I like the shape of that compound curve in the infield, but I don't like the 6" corners in the top right and bottom left. I would bump those up.
I played with a few different options in Tracker 2000. The first is as close as I could get to match the original layout, and then there are two alternatives that are more flowing. All of these assume a 36" x 80" table.

All of these should be able to be assembled using only pieces from the AFX Super International (I'm pretty sure).

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Rectangle Urban design Font Pattern Terrestrial plant


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I tried to reproduce that layout in Tracker 2000, but I couldn't get it join up perfectly. Maybe I misidentified a few corners?
I tried building my current extended version in Tracker 2000 and it doesn't join up, either. It does go together, but the imperfections are probably a contributor to some of my slot joint problems.




Looking at the layout Steve-E-D posted, I like the shape of that compound curve in the infield, but I don't like the 6" corners in the top right and bottom left. I would bump those up.
I played with a few different options in Tracker 2000. The first is as close as I could get to match the original layout, and then there are two alternatives that are more flowing. All of these assume a 36" x 80" table.


View attachment 329035
You are definitely right! I run this clockwise, and the chicane entering the inner loop is brutal. #1 de-slot location. I like both of the changes here in the last design, but the Super International only comes with one 15" curve, so the milder curve coming out of the boot will need some additional parts. I am about ready to try some changes anyway. We shall see if Santa will bring me some more track pieces. :unsure:
 

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Nice to see another HO track entering the world. As far as recommendations go I'd say
1) Make your race table as large as you can. The door build while popular isn't quite big
enough IMHO. You see at least one in this thread that got extended. If that's all the room
you have... it's better than no track at all!
2) Don't be obsessed with laying down as much track as you can to fill the table. Set up
a track, run it from all 4 lanes with cars you're going to run. Don't settle until you enjoy
running the laps. Sometimes a little less is more.
3) Plan out as much of the build as you can in advance. Much less stressful than wingin' it.

Good luck on your build!! 👍
 

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but the Super International only comes with one 15" curve
Oh. Shoot. I have the inventory in Tracker 2000 configured for the track I own, but I forgot that I also picked up the Track Pack as well as the Super International. Sorry about that.


Starting with the Super International pieces:
For the second track I posted, you need +4 12" curves.
For the third, it's +2 15" straight, +6 12" curve, and +2 15" curve.
 

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Tuckaway 25 - in addition to a Super International Challenge set this layout can be built with only (4) 9 inch straights and (4) 15 inch straight sections.
I'm not sure how the alternate layout works out on piece inventory as I had already started adding extra straights in preparation of building the original Tuckaway 25.
 

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Not to be debbie downer here. But I had a hell of a go round with building a 2 lane Tuckaway 25 using AFX track.....ended up being a Throwaway 25 after a couple weeks of headaches with the AFX track. I can tell you dont use squishy carpet for grass, I used putting green indoor outdoor carpet and that made several joints sit low and need allot of shimming.
But for the track itself I had MANY bad joints, misaligned slots that needed filing and lock tabs that stuck up like speed bumps. Shaving the tabs off the locks helped that a bit. But overall after 2 weeks of straight work my cars were still deslotting all over the track and had several guide pin snapping snags. I literally(yea out of anger)threw all my AFX and Tomy track to the curb and went back to my old Model Motoring track.
My finding were that the new AFX straight tracks have the slot positioned slightly off center to the curve tracks requiring major needle filing work be done.
Also as mentioned above a door build is a bit small, trying to get used to the shorter straights going from my model motoring 4 x 8 basement track was disapointing.
Best of luck with yours and Id be interested to here your findings on slot alignmenmt.
 

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I believe "flat" was an identified design parameter, but since lots o folks read these and we are talking about the driving experience, I am big on figure eights, which result in equal lane length.

If you want to run door handle to door handle lap after lap, they are the ticket.
 

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Not to be debbie downer here. But I had a hell of a go round with building a 2 lane Tuckaway 25 using AFX track.....ended up being a Throwaway 25 after a couple weeks of headaches with the AFX track. I can tell you dont use squishy carpet for grass, I used putting green indoor outdoor carpet and that made several joints sit low and need allot of shimming.
But for the track itself I had MANY bad joints, misaligned slots that needed filing and lock tabs that stuck up like speed bumps. Shaving the tabs off the locks helped that a bit. But overall after 2 weeks of straight work my cars were still deslotting all over the track and had several guide pin snapping snags. I literally(yea out of anger)threw all my AFX and Tomy track to the curb and went back to my old Model Motoring track.
My finding were that the new AFX straight tracks have the slot positioned slightly off center to the curve tracks requiring major needle filing work be done.
Also as mentioned above a door build is a bit small, trying to get used to the shorter straights going from my model motoring 4 x 8 basement track was disapointing.
Best of luck with yours and Id be interested to here your findings on slot alignmenmt.
My track is built on indoor/outdoor carpet with rubber matting, and I can admit 100% it is the wrong medium
to build a track on as far as frustration goes. Major players in keeping my sanity were track clips and good beer.
I used track clips on about 90% of the circuit. I have 5 'speed humps' from lock tabs that need grinding, and
shimming was minimal (4 spots). Having said that, I have a lot of elevated track screwed down to plywood,
which ended up an advantage.

The track clips, though finicky, made track allignment very manageable, because things don't come undone
when you move the track. It made me go through about 6 variations of the infield to make the tracks meet up
On the last two connections.

Sooooo... less a Debbie Downer, more a Robbie Realist. If everything worked perfect, it's not HO.

Tracker 2000's working setup was way off. Infield overlapped the outside loop in 2 spots. I did have elevations
so I think that had a play in it. Let's say it's a guideline, not an end all be all resource.
 
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