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Did a Petty Charger with ebay decals, and it is indeed challenging.

Still, you are gaining on it. Seems like I have dealt with decal "anomalies" in a number of ways, but rubbing/stretching half dried decals, sometimes employing a hair dryer, may or may not be a help.

That is a top shelf setup, how is your 1k budget holding up?
 

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"I was...somehow close to budget for the initial build. Operating expenses are another story."--CB

Yep. Whenever I buy a new (that is, new to me used) car, once it is mine, the upgrades or maintenance are just what I want/need to do on my car. Apples & Oranges. Of course, what is key here is not buying too much work to "save money". And I been there and done that toooooooo many times.

"Right now the Chief Engineer is working on trying to convince the Chief Financial Officer [that additional expenses really are kinda sorta necessary]. --CB

Ask her what kind of car & color she likes. Then build her one. Serve with wine and possibly italian food. Teach her to race. What is key here is not to ask for the additional fundage immediately.

(and that's all I got, best of luck, brother)
 

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Does anyone that follows this thread have one? VERY expensive for me at this time .
I'm guessing you're looking at the VRP Dyno? That is one of the few tools I don't have, as it just seems too expensive for what it is.

What do you think you'll use it for? I have a scratch-built dyno (found, not built by me) that works similar to the VRP dyno. It has a meter that shows the rear wheel speed. I use it when I'm trying to build a car for racing, to get a sense for how changing magnets or brushes or armatures impacts the max speed. I also will sometimes compare a cars of the same chassis type to get a sense for which ones are running well and which ones need work.

The type of dyno that Steve-E-D linked to on Ebay seems to be more of a test stand? The auction page mentions use as a break-in tool. I don't use my dyno for that, even though I could. Do folks run cars on rollers for extended periods of time to break them in?

I guess I do have a test box with a short section of track on it. I use that to spin the motor when tweaking things, but I typically just hold the wheels in the air.
I cut a single lane terminal track down to about 5" long and screwed it to a plastic box. The box has a connector for a wall wart and a switch to turn the track on. The track pieces are $3 on ebay.
www.ebay.com/itm/311849515086

Oh, and in addition to the one Steve-E-D posted, that same seller offers cheaper and simpler ones as well.
www.ebay.com/itm/274827021516
www.ebay.com/itm/274249675663
 

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I use my eyes and ears to assess performance running on the dyno. I'm not racing competitively, so I don't need high-tech. It is a great way to spot wheels that need truing or replacing.
I use it for everything from gear lapping to giving it a quick run after lubrication to sling off any excess before going out on the track.
Some low voltage run-in is especially useful for in-line motors as the brushes start out flat and need to wear in to a cupped shape. I can hear the RPMs increase over 15 minutes or so.
I have mine mounted to a block of scrap Corian countertop sitting on rubber feet. I can really hear what is going on with the car in ways I can't tell when running on my tracks. It is hooked up to an AFX power pack on full voltage level, so I have plenty of power to take it from, min to max RPMs.

Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Automotive tire
 

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. $300 is pretty steep, even with the cool blue digital readout numbers.
If I were to get one, I'd get the $200 VRP Dyno 2.0. The 3.0 just allows you to reduce (and measure) the test voltage inside the device. But if you have an adjustable supply with a meter on it you don't need that feature.
I bought an adjustable power supply with voltage and current meter for $50. Combine that with the 2.0 Dyno and it does everything that the 3.0 Dyno does (other than the blue lights).
Plus you have a handy power supply that you can use for other things or to power your track.

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07M9N73YQ
 

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I've been considering getting a dyno, but I also think it's too expensive for what it is.

The purpose would be compare a chassis before and after tinkering with it or upgrading it and comparing similar chassis to each other.
 

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I would agree with Ken.

Do you plan on racing other pro types, possibly at other venues and setting up your cars to formal "rules"?

If not, real world testing always trumps a dyno (1:1 or 1:64). It's ya know, the real world.

So, in my case, I set them up and get all I reasonably can from each, and then test to see which one I like best.

Confusing the issue is that the car that pulls the most rpm, or even gets the best jump off the corners, may ultimately be twitchy to drive and not as comfortable for you. Conversely, a 16 year old with about a liter of coke in him (or her) may find it the fastest for them.

And a dyno cannot differentiate.


That said, as Glock mentions "The purpose [of the dyno] would be compare a chassis before and after tinkering with it or upgrading it...". So, if you plan to experiment with say, tire diameter, magnet strength or gear ratios, or pickup tension, it may in fact be a good way to measure differences. Even then track testing will ultimately be king, I would suggest.

And now,
Finger Tool Laser pointer Bunsen burner Gas
the inevitable counter point:
 

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This is my first AW body that I have done. Got some more waiting on me. Hard to get decent decals.... still looking.
Nice looking car!

Be very careful, CB. Once you have a second painted AW car, and throw it in the slot car box. Cars multiply like bunnies! :D Trust me. I speak from experience.

Try Jag Hobbies, or Lucky Bob's for decals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #318 ·
I have bought some from several people on eBay and I bought the two sheets sold by AW. The 2 white stripes from the AW sheet were very thick and the decal solvent I used was pretty old. It didn't work so I tried another type by Mircoscale. It didn't touch it. Will be looking at those 2 websites for decals, thanks.
 
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