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New and a little confused

4396 Views 34 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  GregK
Hi all Im about to purchase a Scalextric set but dont know which one Digital or ARC. Almost does the additional track you can purchase 1:32 work on either. Does anyone have some suggestions where to purchase as a bundle in Australia or anywhere that will will ship as a reasonable price.

Thanks all in advance
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hmm, well I have searched and could not find an appropriate thread, so Admins if this is in wrong thread please advise me with the correct link or move this post at your will.

Ok so I was changing my track around making a cliff face sort of setup, all done, turned power on and the car was driving nicely until I got a bit too cocky with the power and de-slot it did lol, checked the car, put it back on the track and saw some smoke coming from the digital chip area (I had the body off as I had cleaned it and am playing around with adding weight with Blue-Tak currently) anyway, I turned power off and checked the car for any braid metal and other foreign bodies (there was neither) put the car back on no smoke this time but the car just started by itself at full revs (I held the rear end off the track in case of any further smoke hence it didn't fly away on me.

I turned the power off, waited a minute, repeated placement of car on track, still holding the rear up, the motor started full revs once again.... does not make a difference with controller on or off and this is the only car on the track.

Anyone have any ideas as to what the heck is going on? With the smoke from the dig. chip is the chip assumed to be fried? just tried now before submitting this post, the same thing, full revs no controller, different tracks, full revs!!


Cheers Johnno
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Its very likely the smoke you saw was the moment that the drive circuit failed which powers the motor. Normally they fail as open circuit so then the motor doesnt function at all. Sometimes they fail as a short circuit in which case the motor is from then onwards powered regardless of throttle position... one particular device is usually at fault (N02), but if the brake circuit is activated when this fail mode is presentthen P03 will be damaged too.

GregK is expert at carrying out these repairs...

So then from your post I take it that the dig. chip itself is dead as the motor powers up ok just at full revs. Can I replace the chip with a new dig.chip and the car should work again without problems, I don't want to replace the chip and cook it also.

I see no point in repairing the dig.chip when they are only $30 or near to. Next pondering thought is how could this happen in the first place? I found no foreign bodies or shorts when it was dismantled.



Yup fried.
thought so. Thanks mate. Oh well looks like I have a chassis and body to produce some kind of scratch build sometime in the future

Next pondering thought is how could this happen in the first place? I found no foreign bodies or shorts when it was dismantled.
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Onya Johnno,

The damage may well be only limited to the components that control the Drive and Braking functionality of the chip. A simple test is to hold the back wheels off the track and slowly push the car past a lane changer (LC) which is set to the change position; if the flipper clicks back to straight ahead, it is worth getting the chip fixed as it is not completely Bjorked.

The cost of a repair is roughly 9$ Oz, factor in the postage costs and you should be able to work out how many chips it would take to make it cost effective to get them fixed. So don't bin any damaged ones because you will get a few ......

As my Crystal Ball is at the cleaners ....... some good clear photos of the chip and how it is wired in, would help aid the diagnosis.
sorry about the delay in replying Greg and everyone, I had a brief stay in hospital,ambulance took me late Thursday afternoon and just got discharged late Sunday along with some bad news on discharge, anyway, just catching up and getting back in the swing of things.

Greg, I manually changed the LC to turn setting and pushed the car through the LC and the flipper does not return to straight ahead (normal) position.. so I can assume that the digital chip and other circuitry is fried somehow.

oh well, got my first car to scratch de-build and place somewhere on the track as an accident scene at the worst case scenario with the best case being I have a chassis to play around with.

Photos as requested Greg, I hope they are clear enough, if not let me know.

photo 1: Electrical wiring Engineering Auto part Electronic engineering Electrical supply

photo 2: Gas Electrical wiring Machine Auto part Engineering




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Why did it fail? good question...
1/ with the body off any chance something shorted out as it deslotted?
2/ could the capacitor on the motor have temporarily shorted out?
3/ is there any chance the motor has a shorted winding? does it run at full power with the standard DPR analog blanking plate/socket?
4/ any chance the motor was overloaded during your trials? e.g. wheels locked at full power?

All just thoughts...

Sorry about the delay in replying, I was taken to hospital by ambulance on Thursday afternoon and just got discharged last night.

All great questions or answers depending on how it is read, still though food for thought

1. possibly but the car de-slotted fast

2. don't know

3. don't know, it came pre-chipped digital, remove the chip nothing happens I assume it would as no power throughput without the chip connected

4. don't know, the wheels spin full speed as soon as braids touch track
I also apologise if I hijacked this thread, I thought my issue would fit in this thread.

Through process of elimination, taking a known good working digital chip (herein known as DC) placing in the car that was fried the car works fine, install the original DC the car runs flat out. Install the fried DC in another car and same thing happens with the motor running flat out, install original DC the car stops and runs fine.

So this would appear to be a digital chip issue with the motor running fine. I will get around to buying some DC's to have on hand and also to chip some Pioneer cars

Thank you to all that tried to help and offered advise, I appreciate the help tremendously.


Sorry to hear about your bad news ......

Next thing to do is to carefully slice off the four black plastic protrusions that hold the black casing to the chip; one in each corner. Then have a good look at the small components and compare then to the damage you see in this thread.

Let us know how you get on.
Is it worth doing as you mentioned Greg? The chips are only $30.

Here is the chip showing black burn marks

Computer hardware Display device Electronic device Gadget Computer


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Sorry to hear your update... hope all goes well and with all good wishes from me...

Meanwhile sounds like the simple answer is simply to replace the decoder... however, if you want to explore the failed chip in more detail... which I personally enjoy doing... happy to offer further ideas and input... and sorry to ask... but could you remind me please... do you have a digital multimeter which can be used to measure resistance?

Take care,

No need for apologies mate, it is all good, I appreciate the help if it be good or bad. Yes I do have a digital multimeter but I lack the brain power to make sense of it but with directions I should be able to work it out if not too hard to explain for yourself.

The problem I find is my bad eyesight and trembling hands, oh also my stubby fat fingers lol

I include here a photo of multi-meter

Camera accessory Musical instrument accessory Gadget Audio equipment Cameras & optics

Digitech QM1523 Multi-Meter


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Hi John,

If you start to collect these fried chips as I did, GregK is the man to send them to for repair and upgrade, they come back better than new (components wise). I had over a dozen to fix so postage was not that much of an issue.

If you are going to get new DPR chips make sure they are Rev H one's (ie. in the new grey packaging not the old blue packs) as these have better components and should not fry as easy.
Howdy, currently only have the one fried chip so postage would not be worth it I don't think unless it is easier for Greg to do one chip rather than a heap, is up to him I guess. But really are they worth throwing more money into them when I can buy them for $30??

Thanks for the Rev. H remark, I just added that to my post-it notes on my screen.
I will check with PO (Post Office) tomorrow for postage price. I have a busy start chasing down specialists, MRI's, CT Scans etc. While I am here what are your prices Greg.

If you wish to provide prices via messenger that is fine, I assume prices would change from chip to chip along with return postage etc.

I do have the dig. multi-meter ready and waiting for further instructions. TIA also
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1. manually change the flipper to change lane,

2. held car rear off track and run through IR and the lane change flipper changes to straight ahead position

3. tried multiple times, different flipper, the same occurs in step 1 above

4. placing the car on the track it powers up full speed hence having to hold rear of car off track

5. motor and gears are all connected, just removing the digital chip

6. tested digital chip in another car, the same thing occurs

7. install known working chip in same car and it runs properly on the track and with hand controller
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would you require the whole car or just the dig.chip?

This week will be taken up with health issues which I will need to concentrate on to get this crap sorted with my health.
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