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Sorry to hear about your bad news ......
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Next thing to do is to carefully slice off the four black plastic protrusions that hold the black casing to the chip; one in each corner. Then have a good look at the small components and compare then to the damage you see in this thread.

Let us know how you get on.
Is it worth doing as you mentioned Greg? The chips are only $30.

Here is the chip showing black burn marks

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Sorry to hear your update... hope all goes well and with all good wishes from me...

Meanwhile sounds like the simple answer is simply to replace the decoder... however, if you want to explore the failed chip in more detail... which I personally enjoy doing... happy to offer further ideas and input... and sorry to ask... but could you remind me please... do you have a digital multimeter which can be used to measure resistance?

Take care,

C
 

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Hi John,

If you start to collect these fried chips as I did, GregK is the man to send them to for repair and upgrade, they come back better than new (components wise). I had over a dozen to fix so postage was not that much of an issue.

If you are going to get new DPR chips make sure they are Rev H one's (ie. in the new grey packaging not the old blue packs) as these have better components and should not fry as easy.
 

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@John - keep the chip, put it on a shelf somewhere and when you get a few more blown ones have another think about what to do with them ...... :thumbsup:
 

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Sorry to hear your update... hope all goes well and with all good wishes from me...

Meanwhile sounds like the simple answer is simply to replace the decoder... however, if you want to explore the failed chip in more detail... which I personally enjoy doing... happy to offer further ideas and input... and sorry to ask... but could you remind me please... do you have a digital multimeter which can be used to measure resistance?

Take care,

C
No need for apologies mate, it is all good, I appreciate the help if it be good or bad. Yes I do have a digital multimeter but I lack the brain power to make sense of it but with directions I should be able to work it out if not too hard to explain for yourself.

The problem I find is my bad eyesight and trembling hands, oh also my stubby fat fingers lol

I include here a photo of multi-meter

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Digitech QM1523 Multi-Meter
 

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Hi John,

If you start to collect these fried chips as I did, GregK is the man to send them to for repair and upgrade, they come back better than new (components wise). I had over a dozen to fix so postage was not that much of an issue.

If you are going to get new DPR chips make sure they are Rev H one's (ie. in the new grey packaging not the old blue packs) as these have better components and should not fry as easy.
Howdy, currently only have the one fried chip so postage would not be worth it I don't think unless it is easier for Greg to do one chip rather than a heap, is up to him I guess. But really are they worth throwing more money into them when I can buy them for $30??

Thanks for the Rev. H remark, I just added that to my post-it notes on my screen.
 

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Sorry John, I have realised that you have missing one important fact, which is .......... if I can't fix a chip then I don't charge for it. So all you would loose is the postage if it is a real duffer.
 
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I will check with PO (Post Office) tomorrow for postage price. I have a busy start chasing down specialists, MRI's, CT Scans etc. While I am here what are your prices Greg.

If you wish to provide prices via messenger that is fine, I assume prices would change from chip to chip along with return postage etc.

I do have the dig. multi-meter ready and waiting for further instructions. TIA also
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Could we double check please... when you ran the car manually through the lane changer... was track power turned on and the car held parallel with the track so the IR LED lines up with the LC sensor? also, wondering if you had disconnected the motor to avoid wheels spinning while you did this test. I am a bit surprised that the chip is not driving the IR LED correctly.

The multimeter will be useful for next steps... and the photo will really help too...

C
 

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In terms of AUD, after conversion, it's about nine of the little fellas. If things get too complicated then it is cheaper to bin it.
 

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ok,

1. manually change the flipper to change lane,

2. held car rear off track and run through IR and the lane change flipper changes to straight ahead position

3. tried multiple times, different flipper, the same occurs in step 1 above

4. placing the car on the track it powers up full speed hence having to hold rear of car off track

5. motor and gears are all connected, just removing the digital chip

6. tested digital chip in another car, the same thing occurs

7. install known working chip in same car and it runs properly on the track and with hand controller
 

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@John, while deciding which way to go... between diagnose, post or bin...

Are you familiar with using the test meter as a simple continuity tester...

procedure...

1/ make sure probes are connected black to COMM terminal and red to the terminal with ohm symbol (on the right)

2/ rotate dial one click counter-clockwise from photo setting.... to get to the combined diode and beeper symbol.

3/ touch probes together and the beeper should be triggered... does this happen?

Sorry if this is too obvious... but is it working as a continuity tester?

C
 

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ok... so the IR LED is running which means the microcontroller is running too. This takes us back to normal failure territory... suspects are the n-channel motor drive MOSFET and the p-channel brake drive MOSFET. Replacing these requires careful manipulation of very small surface mount devices...

When the motor drive MOSFET fails short circuit it will cause damage to the brake drive MOSFET as they should never both be turned on at the same time. Should be any easy fix for GregK... if postage makes sense...

C
 

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Crikey, it must be an easy fix for me to get such a glowing reference ...... shame I haven't got any forelocks to tug, I suppose skin will have to do ........
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As always, "ever so 'umble Sir, ever so very 'umble" ............
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