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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, just received delivery of my first Slot.it car, its very nice, was a bargain price for £31, its a Porsche 956KH, Marlboro style livery, ok I know sometimes any car can need a little tweek here and there to get it fine tuned and driving nicely but the problem I have is the with the Front Tyres on one side, the top of the outside of the tyre is rubbing on the wheel arch, and almost touching on the other side, so the tyre that is rubbing is causing the front wheels to not go round, so I tried some Slot.it Zero Grip LOW PROFILE fronts, the fronts now raised of the floor and look silly because they are low profile, so I tried some normal Slot.it Zero Grips and they are just as thick as the tyres that came on the car and again are rubbing on the arches.

I prefer my tyres to be just sitting on the track surface and not raised up.
What is the best solution here for me to get the front wheels rotating freely, the front wheels can not be pushed in any more.

I was going to put some Slot.it aluminium 15x8mm wheels on to replace the plastic ones, but have decided not too at the moment because of the wheel inserts in the plastic wheels are stuck in. This wouldn't solve the problem anyway as the wheels are the same size as the plastic ones.

Its rather frustrating this for a new car to have this issue especially a quality one, what's my options now - I guess sanding the front tyres?

Appreciate any comments or advice, thanks.
 

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Lee Green
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You having it pushed in all the way is probably why the wheels dont turn... get sipt19.... 15.5x8 tyres
 

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I don't have one of these so I don't know how thick the body work is but things I've tried in the past with other cars is to take a Dremel - carefully!!! - to the inner arch and sand some plastic away to make space for the tyre or to shorten the axle slightly. Hope that helps.
 

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QUOTE (Flange @ 5 Dec 2011, 17:29) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>You having it pushed in all the way is probably why the wheels dont turn... get sipt19.... 15.5x8 tyres
Hi, no the wheels are not pushed all the way so they are tight against the chassis, I have a small gap - enough so the wheels are not tight on the chassis, but there doesn't seem to be a lot of room!, I can't push them in and I can't move them out, basically the tyres are to fat or as the other guy said the wheels arches need sanding down a bit, wouldn't have expected this from a Slot.it car.


Yeh, I'll have a look at those tyres you suggest, I just had quick Google images check, they look like a more suitable profile to fit.
 

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Ey Up f1rem0uth,

Take the body off, under the front axle you will see two little extensions which basically locate the axle height-wise.

Snip them off and replace your low profile tyres which should now sit on the track !!.

Some cars have removal extensions so that you can do just that !!.

Trim the locators bit by bit till you get the right height.

vbr Chris A.
 

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QUOTE (CJA @ 5 Dec 2011, 17:57) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Ey Up f1rem0uth,

Take the body off, under the front axle you will see two little extensions which basically locate the axle height-wise.

Snip them off and replace your low profile tyres which should now sit on the track !!.

Some cars have removal extensions so that you can do just that !!.

Trim the locators bit by bit till you get the right height.

vbr Chris A.
Hi, I get ya, those are the bits that fell out on the floor a while ago when I took the front axle off!, I couldn't work out what they were at first, but yes they are the axle spacers, of course if I have a look at them and use the lower profile tyres.....

Good thinking, I go try it now!, also if the wheels had short hubs I would be able to move them in a bit, but can't do it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi, took out the bottom spacers completely for now, had to use low profile tyres though, as with the thicker fronts - although they now fit in the arches without rubbing - the car de-slots because the guide is not flush with the track. Seems like I need to learn how to set the front of the car up for the best, I've never seen this chassis before and all the spacer things. So problem solved, tyres no longer rubbing.

Aslo think I may have got a pair of Silicones mixed up with me Urethanes, lol, the car was sliding of the track like it was on ice!, though it was the magnet - not as strong perhaps, so I swapped to the tyres on my MRSLOTCAR Mazda which I new the tyres gripped, and the Porsche was no longer sliding of the track!, it goes great now.

Thanks for all the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi, I see Slot Car Corner do a set of front axle mounts with set screws for exactly this problem, and of course Slot.it do the sets of front axle stops, apparently these come in pairs in sets of three in different heights.

Anyone have any info on the Slot.it or Slot Car Corner axle stops/mount thingies?, thanks.
 

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QUOTE (Dickie @ 6 Dec 2011, 01:23) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Click the link below. On that page is an article describing how to install them...

http://www.slotcarcorner.com/Reference/

"Thankyou, I did see the item in SCC for sale, but I hadn't seen that info on installing them, that's a great help".

By the way, anyone who has one of these Porsche 956 type cars with this type of front axle set up on the chassis, those little spacers that the axle goes through, I turned mine upside down so the little tabs on the top are now facing down, and removed the bottom spacers axle stops completely so the axle rests on the little legs that stick up out the chassis, maybe not the correct way to do it, but it works really well for now with my Slotting Plus Zero Grip front tyres, with minimal axle play, great tyre clearance with the arches and the tyres just barely touching the track surface.

Love this car Slot.it Porsche 956KH, very damage resistant body design, not one thing has broken on this car, usually something has fell off by the first corner, lol.
 

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Hi All,

I run a Warsteiner 956 which I've had for a couple of years, I've also had the problem that has been mentioned and have also tried various tyres, all that I've done to stop the tyres rubbing is to place a washer/shim between the body mount and chassis to just give that extra bit of clearance while still using 19x10 zero grips (a number of the guys at our club set their front axles by
gluing plastic washers to the axle mounts once they've set the ride height they require using 17x10 zero grips).

I've also just had a Marlboro 956 (probably from the same outlet) at 29.99, as I understand it these are fitted with the latest
Evo 6 chassis (mine is to join the other twenty or so that are still sealed), I have removed the spare Evo 6 chassis that came
with the Newman 956.

The Evo 6 differs at the front end so that you can use grub screws in the top axle mounts, I'd also removed the axle blocks and
fitted long grub screws in the underside of the chassis so that I can set the axle perfectly and use 17x10 zero grips, I've not
used the axle cups or whatever you like to call them, however on one of the american sites I've seen someone using the rear
spherical bushes fitted at the front to locate the axle.

One other unconnected point is that when I tried to fit the Evo 6 chassis to my Warsteiner 956 the rear chassis screw mount is
well out of alignment (just like the NSR drop arm on the Corvette) but the chassis screwed in ok to a Kenwood 956 that I have,
nothing is bent cracked or broken.

Robert.
 

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QUOTE (Crusader @ 6 Dec 2011, 18:23) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi All,

I run a Warsteiner 956 which I've had for a couple of years, I've also had the problem that has been mentioned and have also tried various tyres, all that I've done to stop the tyres rubbing is to place a washer/shim between the body mount and chassis to just give that extra bit of clearance while still using 19x10 zero grips (a number of the guys at our club set their front axles by
gluing plastic washers to the axle mounts once they've set the ride height they require using 17x10 zero grips).

I've also just had a Marlboro 956 (probably from the same outlet) at 29.99, as I understand it these are fitted with the latest
Evo 6 chassis (mine is to join the other twenty or so that are still sealed), I have removed the spare Evo 6 chassis that came
with the Newman 956.

The Evo 6 differs at the front end so that you can use grub screws in the top axle mounts, I'd also removed the axle blocks and
fitted long grub screws in the underside of the chassis so that I can set the axle perfectly and use 17x10 zero grips, I've not
used the axle cups or whatever you like to call them, however on one of the american sites I've seen someone using the rear
spherical bushes fitted at the front to locate the axle.

One other unconnected point is that when I tried to fit the Evo 6 chassis to my Warsteiner 956 the rear chassis screw mount is
well out of alignment (just like the NSR drop arm on the Corvette) but the chassis screwed in ok to a Kenwood 956 that I have,
nothing is bent cracked or broken.

Robert.
Hi, thanks for the info, very helpful. Yeh I got mine from the "theslotoutlet", bargain price, I didn't realise when I purchased this car that it came already with the new EVO 6 chassis, so that was a bonus, but as the chassis are fairly cheap to buy at £4,
I ordered one before I received delivery of this car thinking I could replace the chassis with the new EVO 6!, but of course this car already comes with the EVO 6 chassis fitted, oh well I have a spare chassis now!.

I was just looking at this putting grub screws in for the front axle to rest on, it was in the Slot.it "Slot Cars Accessories in 1/32 scale" catalogue that I printed off the internet, it has some detailed pictures in the front showing how to put 6mm grub screws in the bottom of the chassis between the 2 pegs that the axle stops sit on. Also I tried to put grub screws in the top of the axle mounts the other day, but they wouldn't hold in very well because the plastic is not very thick, maybe some glue or something would help here.

Funny you also mention putting a spacer over the bodypost, that was one of my first thoughts when I noticed this problem of the front tyres rubbing on the arches, but I did think - no surly I don't have to do that!. But yes with the Slot.it Zero grips they are quite chunky to fit on this Porsche and the Low Profile ones to me look too skinny on this car, I ended up using Slotting Plus Zero Grips, as these are in between size profile wise and are not as wide as the Slot.its, not as well made tyres as the Slot.it tyres but but they are OK, although I understand that you may have to use Slot.it only parts in some comps/clubs.

It seems that their are many ways to get the best set-up with this design of chassis regarding the front axle set-up, which is good, I like this - having options over something that would most normally be an axle posted through a hole, end off job done, and no options to adjust it, at first I thought it was not well designed, but you soon begin to realise it is exactly the opposite and gives you many choices for setting the axle and front end up.

My first Slot.it car I own, and I love it to bits, feels so nice to hold, the bodyshell being so well made on this car, and love the way it goes. In fact I've never been so pleased with a slot car before, and this Porsche bodyshell design is so robust too, had it a few days now and not one thing has broken or fell off!. I love the rear end on this car, the way the wing is designed into the bodyshell, it just slides off or around the barriers on my track, so cool, no more broken wings!.


And yes its hard at first to remove them from the box when new!, but that lasted about 10minutes with me, of course I bought this car to drive, but I can clearly see why you would want to keep some of them in the box/wrapper and collect them too.
They are beautiful cars and well designed and manufactured too.
 

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Now you've passed the initiation you can take on the expensive NSR's (assuming you haven't already) if you want a good rewarding challenge - beautiful & extremely fast runners once you iron out the out-of-the box "non" RTR status!
 

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QUOTE (chris99 @ 7 Dec 2011, 14:59) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Now you've passed the initiation you can take on the expensive NSR's (assuming you haven't already) if you want a good rewarding challenge - beautiful & extremely fast runners once you iron out the out-of-the box "non" RTR status!
Hi, yeh, I got my eyes on one of those NSR Moslers, they are designed for pure racing, but no reason to not have one at home, they look to be very robust cars too.

http://www.slotcar4fun.se/Shop/Image/Article/40-SET05.jpg
or
http://fotos.miarroba.es/fo/94b7/314CBF9D0...6214C5F19F5.jpg
or
http://www.mre.co.uk/news/photos/NSR1039.jpg

or
http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/News/NSR...2/set02_855.jpg

Choices choices, so many choices, DROOL
 

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Whooooshhh ... Yep great fun at home at the end of a session of noisy cars - it glides so quietly just a nanometre from the track and is 1 sec quicker than any of my other magless cars (apart from slot.it) on a 6 sec circuit and not much slower than my magnet cars but you need a fine controller like Truspeed or dial the power down to 75%. And it's fairly robust. I keep telling myself they're too expensive but that newish NSR yellow Corvette is hard to ignore.

Cheers
Chris
 

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I also have the NSR Compuware Corvette C6R (my first NSR) and most definately the fastest car I own around our Club track
(North Staffs), I use a Tru Speed Club mk1 controller but its currently out of action with a fault and haven't yet used it with my
NSR Corvette, only been using a 45 ohm Parma.

Have just purchased an NSR Porsche 917K in Red for our new Classic GT series and ran it for the first time a couple of days
ago, wish I'd purchased NSR's before now, but RTR or Ready to win out of the box....mmm..

Robert.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
QUOTE (Crusader @ 6 Dec 2011, 18:23) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi All,

I run a Warsteiner 956 which I've had for a couple of years, I've also had the problem that has been mentioned and have also tried various tyres, all that I've done to stop the tyres rubbing is to place a washer/shim between the body mount and chassis to just give that extra bit of clearance while still using 19x10 zero grips (a number of the guys at our club set their front axles by
gluing plastic washers to the axle mounts once they've set the ride height they require using 17x10 zero grips).

I've also just had a Marlboro 956 (probably from the same outlet) at 29.99, as I understand it these are fitted with the latest
Evo 6 chassis (mine is to join the other twenty or so that are still sealed), I have removed the spare Evo 6 chassis that came
with the Newman 956.

The Evo 6 differs at the front end so that you can use grub screws in the top axle mounts, I'd also removed the axle blocks and
fitted long grub screws in the underside of the chassis so that I can set the axle perfectly and use 17x10 zero grips, I've not
used the axle cups or whatever you like to call them, however on one of the american sites I've seen someone using the rear
spherical bushes fitted at the front to locate the axle.

One other unconnected point is that when I tried to fit the Evo 6 chassis to my Warsteiner 956 the rear chassis screw mount is
well out of alignment (just like the NSR drop arm on the Corvette) but the chassis screwed in ok to a Kenwood 956 that I have,
nothing is bent cracked or broken.

Robert.Hi, I just realised what you meant about using spherical bushes on the front, that's a nice idea, I'm definitely going to be trying this. Thanks for replies, very kind of you.
If anyone is interested check down this link for detailed pictures:

http://www.slot.it/Download/FAQ_PDF_en/9-F...xleSetup.en.pdf
 
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