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novice jazz player &
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100% agree with Gio re the ferrite man potentially touching the motor casing.

Also its hard to see clearly, but is there perhaps a nick in the black antenna wire approx 2mm above the attachment point? The second photo suggests this might be the case... I may be wrong.

c
 

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100% agree with Gio re the ferrite man potentially touching the motor casing.

Also its hard to see clearly, but is there perhaps a nick in the black antenna wire approx 2mm above the attachment point? The second photo suggests this might be the case... I may be wrong.

c
Chip-antenna-bracing_02.jpg


No I think you're spot on Dr_C, the picture above clearly shows both a kink (2) and the sleeve of the antenna creeping up (1) Added to this I also see a spot on the kink where the insulating sleeve has worn and shows the blank antenna wire peeping trough.
To me this indicates that at some point the antenna got stuck between the body and chassis bending the antenna completely flat and or that the antenna has been rubbing against the body (most likely part of the interior) for some time.
Resulting (as I posted before) in a break in the antenna wire itself or a break in the soldering of the antenna at/on the bottom of the O2 chip.
As Albion mentioned this was a new B2 chip with the protective shield still in place (which will make it hard to spot the fault in the antenna soldering on the bottom side of the chip)

The way the antenna is mounted to all O2 chips is a well know weak spot for most DiSCA racers. The way to solve this is, as a precautionary measure, is to add a bit of support to the base of the Chip antenna on top of the O2 chip.
As the antenna is soldered to the underside of the chip (Fig 1), the sleeve of the antenna can creep up as it bends (Fig 2)
So I always add a drop of 2K glue or hot glue around the base of the antenna to give it some support (Fig 3)
An even better way is to add an extra piece of shrinkwarp around the base before adding the glue. A dab of light colored paint on the tip of the antenna will help you guide it trhough the hole in the body or interior should you make one to keep the antenna as straight as possible.(Fig. 4)

This procedure will not fix the problem you have with the faulty chip...but it will prolong and safeguard proper working order for all your other O2 Chips.

Hope this helps
With kind regards
Tamar

Chip-antenna-bracing.png
 

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At one of the 24 hour events at Henley our car stopped recording laps, and on the monitors it showed that our car was off the track, even though Lewis our star driver was driving with no signs of any issues. He must have done 15 or so laps before we noticed. The reason for this was the antenna had fallen off, once we re-soldered the antenna all was good.
I was really surprised that the car was being controlled in anyway without the antenna.
 

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You confirm my theory that a chip in good order will work even without antenna especially on a small environment.
Gio, I was surprised when I took the body off, and the size of Henley track .
I would consider the component next to the Antenna perhaps, I think we are all guilty of holding the chip by that component. But sending the chip of to Slot it would be best.
 

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novice jazz player &
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But we need to be very careful about conclusions... an antenna holding on by a single metallic whisker would be fine... a decoder with no antenna would rely on the track from the chip to the antenna - this might be a waveguide i.e. none-radiative or it might be part of the antenna radiative circuit - in general an rf circuit terminated with an open circuit would be a very poor rf system and most of the rf output would be reflected back into the chip - potentially causing heating damage.

Just my twopence worth.

c
 

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ParrotGod
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Hi Dr_C

I do not recommend to remove the antenna but my gut feeling is that in small place a missing or broken antenna will not be completely detrimental to the functionality of the chip - or at least not as bad as described in the OP.
 

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You are probably right - and peak power levels for the ESB devices are very low and even lower when you take duty ratios into consideration. I am amazed (and impressed) by the range with a broken antenna.

c
 

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ParrotGod
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Yep, this is a testament to the quality of engineering at Slot.it.

For what I understood, there are two types of data flows going on between the car and the controller: one is for controlling the car (throttle, brake, lane change) and the other one is info related to the race (lap, pit, car in the slot, etc.).

I think - and this is somehow explained in the case described at Henley - the control data that is coming from the controller is able to get to the chip even without antenna. On the other hand, the second flow of data is coming from the chip and without antenna is not able to be transmitted from the chip to the controller.
 

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It might be worth adding some heatshrink, or similar, to insulate the legs of the Ferrite-Man .......... probably just as a precaution .....
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With transverse motors there is a degree of rotation and this would cause the wires to the motor to flex backwards and forwards, so it is within the realms of possibility that short circuiting might briefly occur during periods of acceleration and de-acceleration. Should a short-circuit occur, it can manifest itself as a disruption of the firmware thus causing a malfunction ......

However, I may be totally wrong ..... who knows ...
smile.png
 

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Another thing I would look at is is the state of the yellow wrapper on the underside of the motor. These cars run very close to the track and if the track is in any way bumpy, the rails can wear away this wrapper thus exposing the motor's can whereupon brief touches of the can on a high spot can also cause disruption to a chip's firmware.

Check for signs of this type of contact ......
thumbsup.gif
 

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And another thing to look at is the stability of that girt big capacitor ......
ohmy.png


It is a large mass that acts like a pendulum when under braking and harsh acceleration. Big crashes can also cause it to dislodge itself from the safety of the PCB. If the solder pads are not firmly attached to the PCB then twists can occur in the very small copper tracks leading away to the inner sanctum of the electronic wizardry that lives nearby. These also heat (warm) up during heavy usage and intermittent occurences can happen.

To test for this ...... gently place a finger atop of the big silver cannister and gently see if it rocks forwards or backwards as compared to any of your other functioning chips. I have received several chips for repair where this component has completely severed it's connections and not all of them could be repaired .....
ohmy.png
 

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ParrotGod
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I have to say that much of the last comments do not match my quite extensive experience in racing oXigen.

In my installs, I have put the ferrite man always close to the motor (top and side) and I have never had any issue - as long as the firmware and the chip play ball.

Again this is first hand experience on small and large tracks.

Yes of course if you install the chip under the chassis you can get it scraping on the track...I have never seen one doing it yet.

The Revo and the sideways have chassis that have very few openings so I do not see how the plastic film can get scratched by the track. And in any case, the OP said that foam tape was used providing extra protection.

Finally, I have never seen a capacitor flying away and trust me some of my cars have had some nice jumps off the track to concrete floors: all chips and capacitors working still fine.

Now I am not saying that the capacitor cannot come lose but I have never seen it happen on normal racing.
 

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ParrotGod
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Apologies to GregK on the wrapper comment...I didn't read properly the post and he is clearly referring to the motor wrap. I thought that he was talking about the wrappers on the bottom side of the new chips.

Yes, he is correct on that. That is why we use extra tape that we put at the bottom of the motor (the part exposed to the track).
 

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Hello Greg

Thanks for "chipping in"
Yes I would agree that proper insulation of the Ferrite Man's legs is a good precaution.
Reducing the amount of blank contact points is good procedure for all Digital chip install's.

The main problem for a good and clean install is keeping all the wires as shorts as possible and routing them so that they won't interfere with each other, with the pod movement and the body float.
I've seen plenty of cars where it all looks good on the chassis, but gets pretty tangled up and messy once the body is mounted on the chassis.

with kind regards
Tamar
 

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As Greg, says the capacitor is prone to damage, usually because of when handling the chip when fitting, both the antenna and the capacitor are unfortunately handy items to handle when fitting.
And along with the suggestion from Tamar of adding support for the Antenna, the Capacitor would benefit from the same support.
However in the case of this chip, I would send back to Slot it without any of the above suggestions.
 

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Passive circuit component Circuit component Hardware programmer Electrical wiring Hood


The arrows point to all that is anchoring this large mass (relative) to the PCB and connecting it to the circuit ......
ohmy.png
 

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I think your install looks fine regards the connections, the ferrite man looks fine, although I do insulate on my installs. I think your wiring could do with being shorter, but that has no bearing on your issue.
As before I don't think I would do anything to try to remedy the issue, as that would probably give more issues.Best get it returned.
 
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