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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings,

Brand new to the hobby, very inexperienced and learning slowly.

Will have multiple questions in time, but for now... I picked up a brand new digital 132 scale set with three formula 1 cars, set it up and ran it; everything is fine.
Bought a used set of track and cars off Craigslist, to expand my track and host multiple ghost cars. The cars all work great on the track I have, no problem.. however, I notice that much of the track pieces I received are evolution track.. four tabs instead of three. They connect just fine to the digital track... including two bridge units and some high banked curves. However, when I ran a car around the track to the bridge unit, the car stopped on the track with no power to that section. I checked the tabs and connection and they were secure and the bridge piece did not appear to be damaged or rusted (other track pieces are rusted a bit, so any tips to clean them would be appreciated)

So I wonder if there have been issues with connecting the new digital track to evolution track in a larger set. While I made a killing alone on the cars and controllers so the purchase is worth it, I would like for all the track pieces to work so I can expand.

Also, on power tap issue; I discovered he also sent a 5m carrera power tap wire, which I didn't expect and after researching learned how to use it and successfully attached it 1/2 way around my current set up. What I wonder is, if I want to add additional power taps; do they all begin at the power base? and if so, how do I connect say up to three more power taps to connect to the lane change sections?

What would be the cheapest wire to purchase? I saw other posts to get copper speaker wire from radio shack?

Any video links on how to add, remove, adjust the magnets in a car?

I read that digital cars can be adjusted for speed and breaking? How? All I have done is program ghost cars (got 14 running at one time, great for enduros) but some fishtail and spin in the corners.. or is adjustable only for human controlled cars?

Any updated links and sites for the anti-collision chips?

Thank you for assisting a noob,, I plan to one day be on your side of the fence


Chris
 

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Bruce Yingling
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Welcome to digital slot fun!

There is no issue connecting 3 tab track to 4 tab track. It isn't a D132/Evolution thing, it's an age thing. Current Evolution sets (they still make them) also come with the three tab track. Your connection issues (physical and electrical) are likely just the age of your track. It may need a little rejuvenating. Check the metal prongs on the rail ends that fit together when two sections of track are joined. Make sure they are 'sprung' enough to provide good contact. While the old 'U' shaped clips are much harder to work with when connecting track, they do a much better job of holding it together than the new bar shaped clips. It's rare to see rusty Carrera rails. They are a mild stain(s)less alloy, and generally don't corrode as quickly as some other brands.

More power taps is an excellent idea. They should all originate at the BB (or CU, when you eventually upgrade). There are several ways to do this. You can use a junction block, and run wires from the BB/CU to it and then run all of your jumpers from there. You can also run one set of jumpers from the BB/CU, and then splice all of your other jumpers into those wires. There isn't really a right or wrong way, the idea is just to ensure that the power doesn't pass through any track joints (or at least a minimum) before reaching the jumper wires.

Since I used to repair/build computers, my jumpers were made from desktop power cords with the molded ends cut off. Strip a couple inches of wire back, fluff the bare copper a bit, and shove it into the holes in the rail under the track. I have a junction block on my layout, but some of my jumpers feed off of one another. Take the delivery end of one jumper and the source end of a second: twist and fluff and stuff. Still no track joints in the way of the power. YOu can use speaker wire, but I prefer slightly heavier gauge. For best results, make sure it is 100% copper wire.

You can set the max speed, brake effect, and tank size of D1XX cars using the BB/CU. Here's how to do it on a BB system:

To set max speed, hold the lane change button of controller one in as you turn on the BB. Do NOT squeeze the throttle on the controller. As you click and release the lane change button, the row of LEDs on the BB will change. One flashing LED = speed 1. One solid LED = speed 2, etc., all the way up to five solid LEDs = speed 10. When you DO squeeze the throttle on controller one, every car on the track at that time will have it's max speed reset in accord with the number of LEDs lit on the BB. You don't really need to use it for ghost cars- the best way to set their speed is to drive them all the way around the track once or twice at constant speed- making sure they don't come off- before squeezing the lane change button to lock in their speed.

Max brake uses the exact same procedure, only with controller #2. Fuel tank size uses controller #3. This method works with the CU as well, but it also offers buttons to achieve the same result.

The anti-collision chips are available from E-Bay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Much thanks for the detailed response, a few questions for the issues at hand:

1. Any photos or recommendations for a junction box? I am not an engineer and very naive on the electrical end. How many taps can you lead off the BB/CU to portions of the track? As well as pics for connecting power taps as you described? I did the basic tap with the supplied power cable and it worked, so I have the gist down... just don't want to short circuit the track so asking more details.

2. Ebay links for no collision lane change chips? I've tried different ways to search and come up empty.

3. How does one add/remove/adjust magnets in a car?

4. Note - thanks for the tips on the adjustable speed, braking and fuel.

5. Some of the track is rusty/rusted. Is there a preferred cleaning method or am I out some track already?

Thank you very much,
Chris
 

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Bruce Yingling
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1,603 Posts
QUOTE (Chamelion @ 6 Oct 2012, 23:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Much thanks for the detailed response, a few questions for the issues at hand:

1. Any photos or recommendations for a junction box? I am not an engineer and very naive on the electrical end. How many taps can you lead off the BB/CU to portions of the track? As well as pics for connecting power taps as you described? I did the basic tap with the supplied power cable and it worked, so I have the gist down... just don't want to short circuit the track so asking more details.
Junction box was a poor choice of words. A barrier strip or terminal block like this one will do just fine. The one pictured comes with a strip to connect all of the screws on one side to + and all of the screws on the other side to -.

I don't have any pictures for my method of jumper- but it isn't complicated. Strip two inches of insulation from the wire end and stuff it into the holes under the track. That's it. If you installed a Carrera jumper successfully, you know what holes I am talking about. There really isn't any need for the fancy clips that come on the Carrera jumper wires. Strip some insulation, fluff or bush the exposed copper, and stuff it into the rails.

To avoid shorts, always make sure right rail goes to right rail and left rail goes to left rail. If you know you will never want to convert your track to a digital/analog hybrid, then the lanes don't matter. You can run a jumper to one lane, and then use short wires to jump to the other lane on the same track piece. A pure digital track is all one lane. One caveat: do not jumper into or out of a Carrera pit lane. The entry and exit pieces electrically isolate the pit lane from the rest of the track, and it needs to stay that way.

QUOTE (Chamelion @ 6 Oct 2012, 23:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>2. Ebay links for no collision lane change chips? I've tried different ways to search and come up empty.
He ships worldwide.

QUOTE (Chamelion @ 6 Oct 2012, 23:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>3. How does one add/remove/adjust magnets in a car?
Depends on the car. Obviously you don't have the older style D132 bodies that had screws on the bottom of the chassis to easily remove/adjust the magnets or you wouldn't be asking. On the newer chassis, the magnets can only be reached with the body off.

QUOTE (Chamelion @ 6 Oct 2012, 23:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>5. Some of the track is rusty/rusted. Is there a preferred cleaning method or am I out some track already?
I don't have an answer for you. I'd probably try some Dupont No. 7 chrome polish if it can still be found.
 

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Thank you. Excellent information! And the link to the gentleman's collision chips is great!

I have yet to really get the space ready for expanding, but I will certainly take all that advice into account.

Still odd, though. I connected three older piece carrera evolution track to the other BB I got in the lot, and they just don't hold power.

I'll work on cleaning the track over the next few weeks and see if I can't restore it to it's luster.

One last query for now; in the photo for the Barrier Strip; with the 6 screws on each side for + and -, which part connects to the BB, and I assume the others spread out over to various section of the track? Or does it not matter, as the power flows both ways?

-C
 

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Bruce Yingling
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QUOTE (Chamelion @ 7 Oct 2012, 14:17) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>One last query for now; in the photo for the Barrier Strip; with the 6 screws on each side for + and -, which part connects to the BB, and I assume the others spread out over to various section of the track? Or does it not matter, as the power flows both ways?

The piece pictured also comes with two metal strips which can be used to electrically connect all of the screws on one side together, and all of the screws on the other side together. Then it makes no difference which screw is used for what purpose. All on one side are +, and all on the other side are -.
 
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