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Greg Gaub
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We thought about grey, but then what shade? Knowing how things work at the factories sometimes, the (very real) risk would have been to end up with "50 shades of grey" on a slot car track...
Black is always black and we know what we will get, production run after production run.
I know this to be the case from 3D printing, and getting different shades even from the same brand, but for some reason never thought about it applying to mass production. Makes sense, though. The shades might appear to be the same, but once you get an early batch adjacent to a later one, your eyes can more easily detect the difference. Black is much more reliable to reproduce.
 

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ParrotGod
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I just realized that you are using scalex guardrails. Any specific reason for not using the policar ones?
 

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ParrotGod
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I know this to be the case from 3D printing, and getting different shades even from the same brand, but for some reason never thought about it applying to mass production. Makes sense, though. The shades might appear to be the same, but once you get an early batch adjacent to a later one, your eyes can more easily detect the difference. Black is much more reliable to reproduce.
To be honest, the difference in shade might make the tracks even more realistic. But I guess there will always someone complaining.
And the other thing is that the gray colour might make sense for US tracks, but in Europe tarmac is black (or very dark grey).
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Greg do you remember Revell track it was pretty much spot on with their gray track, Two of my friends had revell track and later bought more track and I don’t remember seeing any difference in the shade other than the rails might have had more of a shine. Monogram had gray track and I only saw it on display in store don’t know how their gray color match up.
 

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Greg Gaub
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Nope, that was before my time. Not saying that matching a shade of gray is impossible, just that I understand the concern that it might not match, and these days, like Gio said, people will complain. At the very least, it's at least one reason a manufacturer might choose to go black instead.

Speaking of tarmac, it's the same all over the world. We only use cement when the surface needs to be particularly strong or heat resistant. The vast majority of our roads are asphalt, and start off pitch black just like everywhere else in the world. As it ages, it goes a dark gray, or if the aggregate used is particularly light in color, a light gray. Only fresh tarmac is pitch black, and I don't think that's different in other countries unless they are using some kind of black aggregate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
GRUNZ. I used scalextric boarder on my ninco track because it had the track clips that gives you an extra half inch around the boarder for your cars to slide so that is why I use it on my policar track now that it replaced the ninco track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Nope, that was before my time. Not saying that matching a shade of gray is impossible, just that I understand the concern that it might not match, and these days, like Gio said, people will complain. At the very least, it's at least one reason a manufacturer might choose to go black instead.

Speaking of tarmac, it's the same all over the world. We only use cement when the surface needs to be particularly strong or heat resistant. The vast majority of our roads are asphalt, and start off pitch black just like everywhere else in the world. As it ages, it goes a dark gray, or if the aggregate used is particularly light in color, a light gray. Only fresh tarmac is pitch black, and I don't think that's different in other countries unless they are using some kind of black aggregate.
I agree it does change with age.
 

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ParrotGod
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Yeah, I mean race circuits probably get re-surfaced every other season so the tarmac is pretty dark. I am not talking about roads in general.
I personally like black as color for the track, but if I had to paint it I would go for a very dark shade of grey.
 

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On my track I took the power track apart and unsoldered the wires and replaced these with new wires connected to my controller sockets. There are some nice groves and cut outs under the track to take the wires whist keeping the track flat.

Edit...

Should have said I used the existing solder joints when I replaced the wire as I assumed this was the right type of solder for the s/steel rails and also meant I could do a quick joint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I just wanted to add that sanding and painting track is completely unnecessary and is not easy to do this is just a personal choice and I’m sure there are better ways to do this than the way I did this just worked for me, that’s what makes this hobby so much fun we learn from each other and enjoy our hobby. Thanks for all your comments. Gary
 

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Alan Tadd
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Your track looks excellent and the new track surface finish/colour looks great.
I really need a home track to test out my Club cars and my home builds and this seems to fit the bill
I have almost decided to go down the Policar track route for my layout, mainly due to the slot depth being suitable for wood guides, and I like Slot.it stuff.
A couple of questions if you don't mind, I would like to go down the Prof Motor route for controllers but shipping costs to the UK rule this option out so I guess I'll have to fit a Club three pin plug system and use my Truespeeds but I would prefer to use dedicated controllers. Just hope someone brings one out soon.
I have heard the standard Policar set contollers are not really suitable for 23K and above slot.it/NSR etc motors. Is this the case?
The sanding/painting..did it effect grip levels?
Kind Regards

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Beejay7 There are a lot of pluses with this track in my opinion and you mentioned several of them about the deeper wider slot also the connectivity is on par if not better than ninco track, The track
is 7 inches wide and the boarders are wider than the ninco boarders. There is a difference in the radius of the turns the ninco turns are sharper but it makes the r-1 turns a bit more manageable.The grip is good even with the track being painted but I do use silicone tires the ruff surface would be good with rubber tires I can’t say much about the controllers because I never used them the only negative I had was the abrasive surface it’s not as much as ninco track and it does have a pattern to it. I like a smoother track and that’s the only reason I sanded and painted the track otherwise it’s fine just the way it is. I hope this is helpful because it is a good track and I’m very happy with it. Gary
 

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For running cars with wood guides the Policar track is perfect. For testing club cars you will need to change the controllers and probably the power supply as both have thermal / overload cut-outs as I soon found out, also the controllers are very toy like and the one compromise in the system. Having said that they are only really for the set cars. I have added a 3 pin socket to my layout, if you remove the controller/power base socket unit and base from the power track it is a simple job to unsolder the wires and replace them with heavier duty ones. I found I could just use the existing solder joint to add the replacement wires which made life easier as you are soldering to stainless steel. There are also some nice and convenient cut-outs under the track for routing the wire so everything stays flat. You can then add your power supply of choice, the Policar one may be ok but I've only ever tried it with a single car running.

I do find that the cars perform differently on my Policar track to what the do on my clubs wooden track. A car that seems fairly smooth and well behaved on the Policar track can be completely different beast once I get to the club so it's only useful for basic setup. Maybe if the track is sanded and painted as Popeye has done, using the same paint as the club track, you might get a closer balance.

Having said all that I am more than happy with my Policar track and certainly won't be replacing it anytime soon unless at some point I go with a routed layout.
 

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Would it be at all possible to remove the track rails from the Policar track and run the track pieces thru a planer to remove most of the textured surface? Then paint the track and reinstall the rails.
 

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ParrotGod
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If your club has a wood track with no magnabraid, do not use any plastic track to test/tune your cars for club racing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Would it be at all possible to remove the track rails from the Policar track and run the track pieces thru a planer to remove most of the textured surface? Then paint the track and reinstall the rails.
I don’t think that would work you might damage the track and the rails could break or bend.
 
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