New Resin Bodies

Capri 3 litre mk1

Hillman Avenger Tiger

Chevette HSR

Fiat x19

Triumph 2000 /2.5 pi mk1 and 2

Then at least I can have models of my old rally cars even if I am too old and decrepid to compete in real life

Chassis and fittings are irelevant to me but im sure would be a big help to many

On the price versus quality thing the OCA bodys are a perfect middle way the quality is exelent and the price is right ,and besides my ferrari just finished 3rd in austalia and its still in one piece, so that in its self speaks volumes for the quality of the resin

Sean, Great idea.

Le Mans cars not covered by others.

A decent P3/P4

Matras of all years

Japanese GT cars of the current series.

Like Graham I have several of the OCA bodies, which are fair value for money and finished very well, also very strong. Not fussy about a chassis as I make my own, although mounting points would be handy.

Regards

Alan

PS A Morgan Aero 8 would be nice!.

I'd like the kits supplied with chassis and stuff, but also with painting and topcoat brand recommendations to suit decals as this combination often proves problematic to combine well without fouling up a sometimes VERY pricey car. Supplies of suitable decals could also be provided if they don't come with the cars.

More reviews, also. The recent ones are very objective and honest and really help make a kit attractive (or not!). It's so rare to find really open-minded and detailed reviews of slotcars these days. One for each new kit should be a must.

Main thing that's always put me off buying some nice looking bodyshells is the price. Why do resin shells cost so much?

As far as cars go more classic cars are tops in my book. The whole range of classic TopSlot bodies are always attractive to me and the wide range of dates and styles of cars is tremendous, but the prices puts me off. It's cheaper to buy a slotcar, strip it, and paint it yourself.

Finally, Pendle need a big slap on the back for stocking such an excellent and varied range of shells and spares for them. Number one in my book.

Excuse my obsession with Corvettes for a moment, but I'd like to see some Corvette C1's. In a street livery and racing livery.

Corvette C1 1953


Corvette C1 Daytona beach 1956

QUOTE Using the following kits as examples of quality would you like to see more kits released with the quality and pricing of say - A2M, Top Slot or Slot Classics?

I have several of the A2M bodies, and, with the possible exception of the W-196 streamliner, it is unlikely that I will build them. The D-Jag appears to be a repro Strombecker - far too large and with severely compromised shape and the Porsche ( 550 I think) is even larger than the Jag! They are also thick and heavy. The Top Slot bodies are well made but may, in some cases, be compromised to fit stock chassis. The Slot Classics are beatiful with excellent detailing but need a lot of grinding to reduce the top hamper!

So - What I want - Slot Classics scale shape and details, Top Slot molding technique and good decals - and, to top it off, I want some of the detail bits as spares (they can get lost in racing) and decal sheets as spares as well ( for repaint, body repair or clumsy application)

No chassis, thank, you - I'll roll my own (but will willingly pay for good wheels and inserts, again, with spares available so I can set up different mounted and trued tires for different tracks)

More 50's and 60's cars - the modern stuff is, to my mind, well looked after by the RTR manufacturers. A particular interest would be good bodies for some of the older sedans, particulary the MK II Jag, Hudson Hornet, Chrysler 300 etc.

EM

Thanks Sean, for giving us the opportunity to air our views in this way. Firstly I would like to second the suggestions for mk1 capri, jap gt cars (current and old), Morgan aero 8, corvette c1, and lotus esprit. To those I would add the following -

Karmann Ghia
Landrover bowler wildcat (or any top flight rally raid machines)
Lotus elan (60s)
Lotus exige
Mazda rx7 (1st shape 1980?)
Porsche 928
Renault 4cv (mille miglia)
Saab 93 (the old 50s version)
Triumph TR2
Triumph TR7 (correct 1/32 scale)
... and many more, especially 60s saloons and GTs.

I agree with Graham that Oca currently provide the best price/quality combination. Ideally they should have at least vac formed windows (any chance of a vac window for my A2M mk11 jag? I can't cope with the acetate ones) and if possible, clear resin headlights. I tend to use off the shelf chassis (mrrc, ninco) so a chassis would only need to be provided where the body is too narrow for a readily available item. For me scale is very important, not necessarily down to the millimetre, but a car should look right when placed next to another car of the same scale. Of course the proportions have to be right - easy to say, but I guess very difficult to do.

As for painted or not. My max spend on an unpainted body would be about £20, this would only rise to about £25 for a painted one unless it was one of my favourite cars in a colour scheme impossible to for me recreate at home in which case I might go up to £30. So if you can add a good paint job for £5 or so then go ahead.

That's my contribution over for now,

mdhnn

My vote?

60s - 70s Formula One
60s - 80s Le Mans & other Sports Prototypes

No chassis, I will build my own.

Accuracy to (reasonable) scale proportion is paramount. Like Howmet, transparent parts (lenses, windscreens) and other add-ons must actually fit the shell!

Quality resins, and quality molds.

No paint needed.

for asking!

Personally, I'd prefer white polystyrene bodies over resin. They can be made to look as good, if not better, and being vacuum-formed are cheaper to make.

Polystyrene also sands and sprays / paints nicely (its a similar but more flexible and resilient material than used for injection-moulded plastic glue together kits) and is of course much lighter than resin. They can also be produced in various thicknesses and 'under-cuts', as with vacuum-forming PETG, are not a problem.



For those who prefer using screws to mount bodies, body-mounting posts can easily be glued into the shells.

Ask Victor Ferguson to make the moulds for you, Sean!

Kind regards

Russell

PS: 1970s Le Mans, Can-Am and F1 / F5000 / Indy bodies, please.

Me too Russell,

Here's an experiment for the line that I "hope" to progress on soon.


White .020 styrene.

Not quite good enough yet.

What thickness do you prefer?

Victor

Hmm, everyone listed cars that are either already done or so similar to cars already done that the average neophite can't tell it's a different car.

F1 and Indy cars are all the same, open wheel cars. Seen one you've seen them all
Can Am cars, done already.
Corvettes, done.
BMWs, Porsches, Ferraris etc, done already.

I'd like to see something new. Something recent, something that hasn't been done already. Something that stands out from the previously produced cars. I'd like to see stuff like a 2003 Mustang Cobra, 1996 Lincoln MK VIII LSC, 2000 Mustang Cobra R, Cadillac 16, 1996 Mclaren, 2004 Cadillac CTS-V, 2004 Pontic GTO etc. There are loads of cars out there. It's time to move away from the rehashed stuff and move onto some new stuff

Your opinions are all welcome, i understand the virtues of plasticard but ideally i would like to keep to the subject of resin bodies as ultimately your opinions will have a bearing on future releases, so come on Russell lets hear what you have to say about resin bodies.
Sean

"With all due respect, Russell and Victor, those flat-sided cars look great in vacformed styrene, and I love 'em for all the reasons you state, but faced with something like a Ford 3L or a 50s sports car with lots of roll-under, a resin cast is surely the best solution. Seriously- how close could you get to a F3L in vacform? Or my current lust-object, an Aston DB3S- or a Testa Rossa with those undercut front wings? A challenge even for Victor, I'll bet!"

Here are a couple of styrene bodies that were moulded by my friend Derick Thesnaar. I don't think that styrene is limited any more than resin in terms of capturing the shape of the bodies:-





"Your opinions are all welcome, i understand the virtues of plasticard but ideally i would like to keep to the subject of resin bodies as ultimately your opinions will have a bearing on future releases, so come on Russell lets hear what you have to say about resin bodies."

Unless the bodies are up to the quality of those produced by the likes of Top Slot, Slot Classic and LMM, they usually require a lot of finishing, which the average slot racer is probably not prepared to do.

Kind regards

Russell