[Slotjim]

Hi All, Im new here. Ive been reading and taking in some research so that I could attempt something I have wanted to do forever; build my own routed wooden track. It will be a modest size due to lack of space but I intend to use the initial sections later down the line to expand the track into something much larger. Ive never used a router before so wanted to keep it simple.

Here is progress to date. Made a couple of really small errors which I have corrected easily. Learned to hold the router tight to the fence on start and finish to reduce slot steps... I improved my technique throughout. I made 1 more substantial error that I am really annoyed about: 1 of the 4 lanes doesnt quite line up between the 2 sections. I can correct this with a bit of filler and sanding.
I have found using a guitar plectrum works best for applying filler in the slot. I use a really high strength filler that bonds well to MDF and sets really hard...
I also plan to build a 3rd section in the near future to go in the middle which will have lane changers.
I have plans for that and a much larger track with 6 sections..
You can see in the last photo me testing slot depth and width with a variety of cars from Slot.it, Scaley, Fly and Ninco..

 

[Slotjim]

Lookin' good, about to embark on building my own wooden track soon so will follow your travels and hopefully learn something along the way.

Happy to share learning experiences. I spent a lot of time routing different radius corners on scrap wood. I also tried applying braid etc to make sure I could do it. I also made my own router bit to do the gains for the braid... can share what I did too.

 

[Slotjim]

Nice work! Yes, it would be interesting to see how you have made your own router bit to do the gains for the braid. :thumbsup:

Well in tests I felt a 3mm slot worked best for me at a depth of 7.5mm.

My braid is 5mm in width so I wanted 6mm gains. So I went with a 15mm diameter router bit for the gains... 2x6mm gains + 3mm slot = 15mm.. I found the centre of the bit with careful measurements and drilled a poker straight 5mm deep hole. I then cut 15mm off the end of an old 3mm drill bit. I inserted this into the bit as the slot pilot. I glued this in place with a combination of high contact cement and loctite...

Result:

 

[Slotjim]

Practicing with gain router bit and different depths. Really impressed with how deep it will cut without trouble!!
You can also see where I practiced gain depths and widths with braid. This gain is too deep and too wide... wide by 1mm and too deep by 2mm. Maybe it would be ok but wasnt happy!!! So kept tweaking and learning all the way...
Im sure my efforts wont be up to those more experienced but I like to think I am learning quickly!!

 

[Slotjim]

That's looking very nice. I like what you did for the recessed braids.

Heath

Thanks. Do people generally leave 1mm of space on the inside slot edge so that the braid doesnt lift as Ive read on here somewhere? I have practiced sticking the braid down with
1. Contact Cement - stinks even after doing a small section. Sticks well but lifts the MDF if you make a mistake and need to pull it up
2. Glue gun - works really well in terms of sticking but makes the braid uneven.. correcting errors and re lifting the braid is ok and doesnt damage the MDF.
3. I have 3m style double sided 5 mm tape (ape tape) yet to try..

 

[Slotjim]

Hi
It's not unusual to leave a small gap, it's what the analogue boys do, this allows the builder to paint the slots different colours for id ing the lane..

The mdf lifting is down to your choice of mdf, it looks like it is fluffing up once you've machined it so indicates contract grade mdf, no issue with that but it does require a little more work to get a nice finish, one trick is to paint the slot with diluted pva, this hardens the surrounding mdf but it will all the fluffy buts stand up so it will need sanding before fitting the braid..

Regards fixing, yes good quality double sided tape will work great, especially if the steps mentioned above are taken as this also seals the mdf and stops it bleeding dust which obviously effects the adhesive on the tape...:thumbsup:

And welcome to the forum :thumbsup: and to the world of routed slot car racing :thumb:

Thanks for the helpful advice - very kind. The close up pictures are scrap cheap MDF that I'm practicing on. The actual circuit I'm building (first set of pics) is on HD MDF - was quite a bit more expensive and the cuts are cleaner and sharper. Diluted PVA sounds like a great tip - essentially seals the MDF and protects - nice!!

 

[Slotjim]

Thanks all, some great advice which I will follow. My next action is to cut the gains in my actual circuit (not just on scrap MDF). I hope it works out!

 

[Slotjim]

A router bit for doing the gains is available from Slot Car Corner. All of our newer tracks used 3M double sided tape to stick down the braid. The gains must be paintede and a solvent must be used to remove any oil from the braid before it is laid down.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BPVudAkaOKKtvn3kPx9G9DUrOWcN44HK/view?usp=sharing

Great- thanks.
Update: Gains are now done. All perfect with no errors. It was surprisingly quick to do. Ive also applied PVA to the area (slot and gains). Its looking really good. My router skills have improved! I find when cutting the gains with the pilot bit, its best to let the router just find its way with gentle very light pressure.

Testing with PVA on scrap MDF - it really holds the fibres together well. I tried different ratios of PVA to water ... 4 parts water to 1 part PVA had the best results for me. It soaked into the MDF well and stood up well to scrubbing with a microfibres cloth once dried pretty well. I then secured test pieces of braid to scrap MDF and let it dry. 4:1 allowed the braid to pull up without damaging the MDF. 2:1 didnt soak in very well and 5:1, 6:1, 7:1 didnt make much different with the microfibre cloth scrub test! So I think I have found a good balance.. some updated photos:

 

[Slotjim]

Thanks All. The boards are 4x3.75 at the moment.. Im starting the build of the small expansion in 2 weeks time. It will be the equivalent of 1x Scalextric C7036 Straight Lanechanger. This will enable me to increase the length of the circuit and bring into the mix Digital capability.
I havent yet decided if Im going to route the lane changer or simply embed Scaley plastic track...

 

[Slotjim]

I like the non constant radii curves. I find constant radius curves predictable and not the challenge I like. Looks more realistic too. Not easy on your first attempt.
Rick

Thanks Rick, you should see the number of failed attempts of made on scrap MDF!! What I've learned now though, will stand me in good stead to create something much more complicated and ambitious. I'm thinking of racing line type routing. I really need to start practicing routing lane changes but for my first track I am considering keeping it simple and embedding Scaley digital lane changer..

 

[Slotjim]

Latest update - Im a little behind where I hoped I would be but Im really proud that everything is going to plan as I have never done anything like this before. For those unsure about taking on this kind of project; If I can do it, you can!!

Im at the stage of taping and laying the braid. Its looking good.

 

[Slotjim]

One of the benefits of using braid for digital is that it does not extend down into the slot.This means that the flippers will not have polarity issues when lane changing if you decide to enliven them ......

My suggestion would be for you to route them.

Ive had a test go at routing LCs.... lets just say I need more practice!!

 

[Slotjim]

Question: Why did you braid it before painting it?
Rick

Mainly because Ive never done this before so wanted to make sure I could actually cut the slot, cut the gains and get the braid right first before going to the effort of painting... now Im more confident, I would change the order for sure...

 

[Slotjim]

I used the SCC gains bit too and it was great. I much prefer braid and while more expensive than copper tape, it's not much more effort. In fact, I tried to put copper tape on my Sport track and that was really frustrating, especially around corners.
I use double faced tape to hold the braid down and it has never lifted.

Nice one.. pleased to hear it hasnt lifted. For anyone interested, I tried 3M VHB tape and ApeTape high bond. In tests ApeTape held perfectly well and was easier to lay around corners. Worth a look..

 

[Slotjim]

Painting the road... grey emulsion (in Matt). Looking forward to starting the scenic bits (it will be simple).

 

[Slotjim]

Looking good, spray paint or brush?

I went with a fine brush and sanded between coats (3 in total). At the moment compared with Scaley track it feels too grippy. Will need to test to make sure cars dont topple..

 

[Slotjim]

Well done for brush😀

Thanks!!

 

[Slotjim]

does that translate to a water base semi gloss paint?

I only ever use oil base gloss enamel.

Its water based - non gloss. Totally matt.

 

[Slotjim]

Its alive! Had a little test of the half track. Everything smooth. All cars run well (Slot.it, Scaley, Ninco, Fly) except for my 2 x Carreras. They seem to run a bit jumpy and deslot easily. Not a major issue as I mostly will be using my Slot.it which I love.

Initial thoughts are:
Its so smooth - such a difference!
Grip seems perfect - just enough grip, progressive slide.

Quick video:

 

[Slotjim]

totally agree...

The thing about paint choice is how hard is it? how impervious to other substances is it? such as oil, tire materials, solvents, tire additives, tire scrub, hence my oil based enamel preference.

The track surface will change.

Got it. I will see how it goes. This is not THE track, more my first attempt before a more adventurous track in a couple of years. That said I hope to reuse these sections for parts of future circuits... I can always repaint if I need to.