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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Knoath that's a nice track in the backyard. Looks though you need a few barriers around to avoid wrapping a tree!

Which got me thinking about my barriers and how to attach them. I don't want to use the feet scalextric have (rubbish really) and I don't want to drill holes. So I was playing this morning and put this together in 10 minutes, cuts some cork sheet and drilled some holes and squared it with a file. Will work well I think after painting, thanks for making me think this over my morning coffee.


I was going to look at Ninco or Carrera barriers are they any good. Anybody have any opinions on those? Must buy some and check them out.

GeraldL. That sounds of interest. Standard O gauge track and which brand rolling stock would you use to get to 1/32? The thing is I want to see the Slot cars going around on the railway in the wagons... Would it work and will the cars fit? ie first pic on here with last years Le Mans winner.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Ron - I work near Hamleys so popped over there to have a look at the O Gauge Hornby (1:43) range and put Scalextric cars against it. To me it does not look right, car is too big and it definetly won't fit into a flat car freight wagon. Aesthetically, if it is not too close together it would be okay with the perspective. I think Graham wants to run a local commuter train on his layout and as those trains could be smaller, for that pupose should be okay. I reckon Carrera 143 would work well with O gauge.

There are cheaper alternatives than Marklin gauge 1. They also did a Maxi range (not sure if Marklin still do it) and it is about 1/3 the price. I've seen some of the Maxi stuff and it doesn't have the detail to the Gauge 1 range - more a toy than a model really. It would be okay I guess against a 60's scalextric circuit with the less detailed cars of that time... (or if I had a couple of Mondeo's). There are some other makes, Bachmann are cheaper and 1:32 but not sure if only garden use and not electric. You don't want to look at the price of a new Aster train, they are anyway meant for outside.

Let's get Pete Waterman on the line, he runs O gauge trains!
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I think it would work at a distance. Though on the sizes we use on slots it could be a problem as they would probably get close. HO is 1/87. I think Lionel O gauge which is 1/48 would work better. I think on O one of the narrow cars in below pic would fit on a wagon.


And the yellow ferrari takes the flag! That's me on right doing the hard work.

Anybody suggest a good 4wd with a strong magnet to climb this?

This board weights 16kg and I'm happy with the strength, 5mm ply all road with access on sides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Sig - I didn't realise your cars were 1:43. Well you do a dreat job with the photography and lighting.

Merc - It looks like you set up on occassions, are you working on a permanent layout? Great video and good idea the siding meeting a hairpin bend. Are Marklin still doing the Maxi range? I recall seeing some great looking maxi Circus wagons with animals etc in them.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Board No2 is more or less complete. 9 months since I started, so 4.5 months to do a board and as I have 18 to do that is 72 months/6 years from start to completion! So should be done IF I keep going at this rate by Xmas 2015.







Will add trees and borders later and could fiddle around for a while longer but as the wife is away for a few days
I can stretch out to start Board No3. As 3 roads meet have to get those levels right and might need to adjust BoardNo2. Board No1 & 2 might go to the attic next month so have to get a move on for the connections.

Here is the stream landscaping work.





I used some of that Scenic water resin stuff which is a bit of a pain on a stream and have some fibres but haven't bothered with that yet. Gloss vanish is easier I think for a running stream
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Leo - Thank you and that is a real compliment. I had a look at your website and will study it in more details, you are a real craftsmen!

Asjwood - I'd love to test out what I have done but I don't have all the track bits to loop back here in London at the moment. In my head I had it going in an anticlock direction and now I see that one of the gradients might be a bit steep and I might have to change to clockwise, it's no big deal if I change direction so that section becomes a climb. I have masses of track over in austria and going over next wk and will bring back some starights etc. I should have layed the road structure for board 3 by next week so atleast it will be lower down to loop back to the start of board 1. I will take some video then.

GeraldL - If that's the case then it would have been good to use O gauge track with the smaller radius I could have had 2 or 3 train loops as opposed to the 1.5ish I will get with Gauge 1. I personally would not change as Gauge 1 is pretty much standard for Garden railways, and I am also building up my collection for that purpose. It would be great to see someone else get stuck in with that and some slotcars. You sound like an expert, why don't you do it? I've been on the Circumvesuvio years ago and that would be a great landscape to model especially if one incorporates an erupting/smoking volcano!!

With the RTR Marklin rails that I have drawn on my layout I'm using 1020cm or 1200cm radius, they do have tighter radius at approx 760cm and 640cm radius but using big passenger wagons on it will most likely derail and so I am in two minds as to incorporate some of that for a freight line. I do want to use passenger wagons to run to the racetrack railstation area in my layout . The Marklin website lets you know which wagons or engines need the larger radius.
I think on Merc A.s Marklin Maxi layout the passenger wagons are smaller and can run on a tighter radius but not so sure, the passenger wagons don't look so long.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
So the track joins have been added on for Board 3. I didn't really like the overhanging rock with the looping road above so I decided on another tunnel and goes into it with a Rad4 section.




Below there will be a river with road and rail bridges above leading into more tunnels.

I managed to rig up a return loop using a filing cabinet draw to test this section. It runs okay in both directions even with no borders at the moment. As mostly Rad1 on this it won't be a sprint around this section!

&hl=en&fs=1&color1=0x006699&color2=0x54abd6">[URL=http://www.youtube.com/v/

The car did loose traction a couple of times with the changing camber of the road, I need to experiment with the new loop added on this board 3, the outer part of the road needs to be lifted slightly on the hairpin. Thanks asjwood for asking for a test vid.
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Thanks guys,

Mr F - Yes excellent to finally see a car moving on the scenery.

Gokart - With starting something like this it gives you a different way of looking at landscapes on motorways etc. I should mount a camera in the front grill to take a pic when I see something interesting like a nice bridge or interesting rock formations.

Asjwood - One hand was on the throttle and one on the iphone video app so very slow. I look forward to taking some proper footage and giving it to one my film editor mates and see what they come up with in an Avid.

Jim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Thanks for that Eno. I have been looking at some HO rail gates that work and I guess one could modify that. Maybe though I should wait until I see what Graham does and copy him!

They have some great custom track adaptions also. I will email them and see what they cost.
I'm planning on cutting some R2 track bits soon for a single lane variation to what is available for Scaley.

Jim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Here's some progress pics. I though I would add more interest to the trains and double the line in some section, so it goes into the next tunnel with a turnout. The pit lane road goes upto a villa and the tunneled road bypasses it.

I think after the villa on the next board one of the rail lines will go to a level crossing and the double lane road will cross it, so if there is a train coming the cars stop. If you take the pitlane road upto the villa which will be a more windy road you wont risk the level crossing. So that should be interesting from a race point of view. Timing wise I'm not sure how it will work.. but later on I could always add a security gate to the villa and then work it out to even up.

I'm making the bridges removable for access so I can do the river at the end.







 

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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Not only will I race non-magnet but also tinplate from 1958! I have a complete No1 set with 2 nice looking, good as new Maseratis. So new, I haven't even tried it out yet! Anyway not on this track.. it wont work with the ball mechansim as pickups.

On this track, I think non-magnet will not work well with the hillclimbs and rad 1 curves. .. Too many deslots and would drive me nuts!

After having a discussion on here a few months ago about the new powerbase (with others, including MrF - thanks by the way). I thought I would make an inner analog small conventional race circuit so not to have to worry about digital track sections changes. This will be small and gentle and good for non-magnet and those classic 60's cars. I will link it with the trains so that race fans board the train on one station (at one corner of my attic) and get out to go to the racetrack in the other corner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Thanks Eno Dog for the tip on Pitslot. I've ordered a level crossing track and it will take 4wks to be made.
I've done a new spaghetti junction plan and the crossing will be on Board 6. I've added a rail yard where the racetrack station will be and have a footbridge going over to the analog track which I will work out later.



A bit more progress in between holidays on Board3. Finished my tunnel lighting and straws make good conduit for wiring. Road bridge is done and will start on the river soon.



 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
A bit more done but slow progress as too much work at the moment.

Started Board No4 so I can get the levels correct. On Board 3 Grass need a bit more work and need to do the Water. But as it joins thought I would start next board to get the grass look consistant.

I've cut some Rad 1 track and using the outer lane to join onto normal single lane track.

When this board is finished there won't be much track visible only the single lane track and the end of the board where the tunnel ends.
Most of the surface of the board will be taken up by the castle and a small creek.

Jim.







Acquired this nice looking Mercedes C32.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Thanks there SSD. Yes it must be difficult to follow whats going on here with only seeing sections.

These 2 boards anyway are a bit boring. I'm looking forward to doing the next ones with the station and loop after the level crossing. It will be a bit difficult to do it in 2 4ft x 2ft sections with a lot happening in the middle. Maybe I will have to start it as a 4ft x 4ft, do the tracks to get the levels right and then chop it in half to get it up the loft hatch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
SSD - I'm still waiting for the level crossing track, I emailed pitslot again today and haven't heard back. Will post a pick when I get it.

Cenglish - Great. When the idea came to me a few years ago to combine cars and trains I joined the Gauge 1 society, it's worldwide (gauge 1 is 1:32). It costs about £30 a year and the magazines have good info but mostly geared to live steam. There are cheaper bits you can get like rails etc but I haven't seen sets other than the Marklin Maxi stuff which is discontinued. I've seen sets go for about 150 euros on ebay. Some of the Maxi stuff is not so detailed though.

The marklin gauge 1 starter set I got for 800 euros direct from germany which is a lot less than they sell it in the UK (£1,300!). As it is big you don't need that much of it and the set has the digital controller etc. They weren't making a starter set for a couple of years and only released the current one in July. When I started my model building I only had a few bits of track and a wagon to lay out the size. Where are you US? German ebay sometimes has a few bargains.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Thanks guys and great info there Manitou. Have you got some pics on here?

I finally got the level crossing track today. Very neat looking job by Erwin of Pitslot and thanks to Eno for mentioning him. (and also great reason to be on here for feedback and ideas!).
I will try and layout the tracks on the weekend and see how it connects.



 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Great photos - I like that double decker auto loader! USA trains is it? - I will have a search on the web. I've been trying to find something like that.

Eno Dog told me about pitslot they make all sorts of custom plastic bits. http://www.pitslot.de/ and Erwin at pitslot - [email protected] used a 300mm Marklin track with a full Scaley straight. It cost 90euros including the shipping.

Jim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Not much progress. But did layout track and see that level level crossing track and rail meet okay. Lucky wife was away to use the spare bed to lay it out.
Look forward to doing the scenery on this bit.



 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
I will box up Board 3 soon and take over to the loft on the weekend. So doing a bit of work on the river to get most of it finished. Painted dark blue shades and used a few small pebbles on the edges, it needs a bit of white added to it and some more pebbles I think.

I will seal it with some gloss varnish soon and then put on some of that rubbery model water stuff.



The removable bridges come in handy for painting.


 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Well I'm a novice I hadn't thought of braid tracks until I saw tracks on here.
I think it would be difficult as I'm building modular.... I'm building it in UK where I work mostly and transporting to my holiday place in mountains in Austria. Also I will have 16 boards when done, wouldn't braid be a problem to join? or what just run the metal stuff over the joins? I've used mostly 6mm marine ply or 6mm fibre board for the road, could that be converted to braid later or does it have to be mdf? What thickness should the mdf be? That loop after the level crossing might prove to be a problem with plastic after the level crossing.

Jim
 
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