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David.
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QUOTE (Trg888 @ 13 Dec 2010, 21:57) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Look forward to doing the scenery on this bit.
And you know very well that we are looking forward to seeing it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
I will box up Board 3 soon and take over to the loft on the weekend. So doing a bit of work on the river to get most of it finished. Painted dark blue shades and used a few small pebbles on the edges, it needs a bit of white added to it and some more pebbles I think.

I will seal it with some gloss varnish soon and then put on some of that rubbery model water stuff.



The removable bridges come in handy for painting.


 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Well I'm a novice I hadn't thought of braid tracks until I saw tracks on here.
I think it would be difficult as I'm building modular.... I'm building it in UK where I work mostly and transporting to my holiday place in mountains in Austria. Also I will have 16 boards when done, wouldn't braid be a problem to join? or what just run the metal stuff over the joins? I've used mostly 6mm marine ply or 6mm fibre board for the road, could that be converted to braid later or does it have to be mdf? What thickness should the mdf be? That loop after the level crossing might prove to be a problem with plastic after the level crossing.

Jim
 

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Bill
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QUOTE (Trg888 @ 14 Dec 2010, 14:44) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Well I'm a novice I hadn't thought of braid tracks until I saw tracks on here.
I think it would be difficult as I'm building modular.... I'm building it in UK where I work mostly and transporting to my holiday place in mountains in Austria. Also I will have 16 boards when done, wouldn't braid be a problem to join? or what just run the metal stuff over the joins? I've used mostly 6mm marine ply or 6mm fibre board for the road, could that be converted to braid later or does it have to be mdf? What thickness should the mdf be? That loop after the level crossing might prove to be a problem with plastic after the level crossing.

Jim
Hi Jim,

I totally understand. I did the same thing with my 2nd track because I thought I was a novice. However, judging from the quality of your work, MDF would be no problem for you. It would also give you more flexibility in design. Joining braid in modular tracks is easy (essentially you can pressure fit it). Copper tape would be a little more tricky. Still, I think you'd be happier in the end with MDF. Lots of ways to convert it. You could lay two strips of 1/4" mdf on top of the marine ply and fiberboard with a slot in between, for example. I've also seen the slot cut with a jig saw, though router is better IMHO. You can lay braid on anything. I use 3/8" mdf, but in the UK that would be 9mm (I think). Just my suggestion. Your designs and scenery really are first rate.

Bill
 

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Looks great! I also would agree that you shouldn't be worried about the MDF - I should have done it years ago!
 

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Trq888,
Are you going to secure the track to the wood base or just let it float?

If you are securing it... what method will you use:
1) silicone?
2) Scalextric clips?

I am planning to secure mine since it is hoisted up and thought it might need something above the wood and under the plastic to silence the "clatter" of track on wood. What are your plans?

I enjoy following your developments... keep up the excellent work!


Cheers!
 

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Perhaps off-topic but, if you are constructing a move-able layout with Scaley Sport track, keep in mind the continuity of the track will suffer over time. I had 100' of Sport track mounted on a large platform that was braced underneath, and was designed to be lifted and leaned against a wall when not in use. After a few months, I started having all sorts of intermittent power issues, even with 4 power taps. The track was clipped down, glued down and even screwed down in a few places, but there were still problems. Eventually I just tore the whole thing down, sold the plastic track and built a wood track.

Consider either using copper tape or soldering connections between track sections if you're going to be moving the track regularly.

Randy
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Thanks guys and all good info. I do want to experiment with a router so I will do it somewhere, the viaduct section where the train will be below and the road would be a good spot, long straight bit and should be able to connect it easily to the plastic. The routed tracks do look more natural.

With the video I posted a couple of months ago the camber of the road construction in one spot sees the car loss a bit of grip as it twists. At least with the plastic I can play around with lifting or twisting once it is in final position. The problem is I can't really test the whole thing and then adjust the layout. I'm a finance guy and now need a civil engineering qualification!

I think I will solder pieces together where the boards meet and keep those free to move the boards for running repairs or adding electrics/ lighting etc. I saw one post on here where someone had even smoothly plastered or whatever he did to make it look like one piece. Braid over the scaley rails might be another idea. I don't think I will need to screw the plastic down, I will wind up trimming pieces to make it fit better and then solder it. With the looping road the curve inwards becomes tighter so in a couple of spots is not a very good fit now.

I guess I should have started something smaller but the design idea came when I decided to do something around the loft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
I'm almost done with Board 4, more plastering and green to do. I will complete it before Xmas so I can put all of the boards into loft over the break. Not so interesting this board.







I acquired 2 x Targa Florio winners after a summer visit to Sicilly. I drove the road. What a race it must have been! The old pits area is in a sad state though. Someone should do a model and use it in there layout as it was back then.





 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
Assembled the 4 boards completed to date in my loft and here are some test videos.

The cars work better than my initial test and the train noises are fab. Had a couple of smashes into the train on the level crossing , have to sort our a boom gate somehow and stop the cars.


 

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This is looking superb - if only there was a cheaper alternative to Marklin Gauge 1 then i would love to add it to the next scenic project - even the second hand sets seem to go for over £300. Does anyone make cheap static 1;32 or 1;35 trains and track?
 

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QUOTE (JEXY1 @ 3 Jan 2012, 13:56) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>This is looking superb - if only there was a cheaper alternative to Marklin Gauge 1 then i would love to add it to the next scenic project - even the second hand sets seem to go for over £300. Does anyone make cheap static 1;32 or 1;35 trains and track?
I've got an old, cheapo plastic Chinese made 1:32 steam train in the loft from when I was a kid. It's just a battery powered model with oil bag for making steam, a headlight and 'realistic' chuff-chuff sound, but luckily I realised when I was young enough that it was the right scale for Scalestric and kept hold of it.

It will have a place in my permanent layout if/when I ever have space.
 

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Greg Gaub
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Tee Hee! I felt like a little kid watching the train crossing and the car going across right afterward. Totally awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
Hey, we are all big kids on here, aren't we?

Jexy have a look on German Ebay, I think you can get a Marklin Maxi set for about 200 euros. I don't think it is digital though and the controller with the Gauge 1 is great with the sounds and the flexibility you get and it can take upto 11 different locos and will operate 300 or so track functions.

Here is another video with the bell. I want to get a Diesel loco next for the engine noise as it increases speed.

 

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Mr. Olufsen
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Ouch, what an awe-inspiring project. It is going to be exciting following your progress, I'm full of admiration (and a bit of envy of all that space).

Br,
 
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