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For a couple of years now I wanted to make a wooden track. I first experimenten a lot with a 12 metre one lane rallytrack and when I was satisfied with how everything worked, I decided it was time to replace my 30 metre Scalextric track with a wooden setup!

Somewhere in May of 2008 I began with a design and now, 10 months later, the track is almost finished. I did not work on it every weekend, there were some pauses, so that is why it took me longer that normal.

My goal was not to build a scenery track. While I love those beautiful tracks, I do not have the patience to build one myself. I prefer racing with a couple of friends


So I decided to make a clean, practical racing setup. I decided on a three lane track with a couple of squeezes. At first I wanted to make every corner "squeezed", just like in real world racing, but I decided that it would not be a nice track to do some battles on, since we would be constantly putting our deslotted cars back in the slot. I also wanted to have something that would keep the cars on the table after a deslot and I would want something to prevent a view below the table, so I could use that as storage space (and did not have to invest that much time in a good looking construction
).

Since I have very good experience with copper tape and since I wanted a non-magnetic track, copper tape became my choice. I bought the roller thingy from the guys from Old Slotracer (great help!!) to put down the 190 metres of tape. My track is painted with blackboard paint (the kind you can write on with chalk). It gives me perfect grip: not too much (bumpy cars), but enough. You do need to keep the track clean from dust, cause that will deminish the grip. But it drivers perfectly, IMHO.

The track is as good as finished. Time sensors still need to be installed, but the light bridge (LED operated) is already fucntional.

Here are some pictures of the current state of the track.







I still need to clean up the room and finish the timing electronics. Timing will ofcourse be with Slot Race Manager 2!


Here is the complete photo link!
 

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Great looking track cenobyte. How long is it? What's the overall size of the layout? Thanks for sharing.

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks!

@Rockcrawler: sorry, no video's yet. I only had some testruns when I was alone, since the room is still a big mess
As soon as I get somebody over for a serious testrace, I will put up some video. Next week I'll hope to finish the timing hardware and get some guys over for a test race


About the room: I was very lucky with that. We have a business that used to be housed in this building. Since 2002 our business moved to a bigger location and since the old building was built behind my parents house, we did not want to sell it or rent it out. The building now houses a small beauty salon, but is otherwise unused. This room, measuring 5 by 12 metres, was the former show room and is perfect for a big private track... or a small public track as it will hopefully turn out to be


The layout is about 6,3 metres long and 2,50 metres wide and the track is about 26 metres long. The track itself is 35 centimetres wide and the lanes have an (average) distance of 85mm. With 1/32 cars you can race on all three lanes easily, 1/24 cars should only use the outer two lanes (but since I do not own any 1/24 scale cars, that won't be a problem). The height of all underpasses (bridge and light gantry) is high enough for trucks to pass.

When the track is finished and the room is cleaned (in a couple of weeks), I will take some better pictures. Most are taken with my phone now.
 

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Lars Ole
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damn nice track, Isn't this blackboard paint supposed to be conductive ? guess not or you would have noticed the problems. I'm pretty shure I read about somebody else using it and it turned out to be the paint that he had used(Blackboard paint)

well as I started....... Damn nice track.
cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The blackboard paint works very well. I had a previous test track that convinced me to use it. Over here in The Netherlands there are more tracks using the black board paint, it has a nice structure. Not too much grip like the more shinier paint sometimes gives.

You can find all the construction pictures here: http://gallery.me.com/cenobytez#100196&amp...k&view=grid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
QUOTE Isn't this blackboard paint supposed to be conductive ? guess not or you would have noticed the problems. I'm pretty shure I read about somebody else using it and it turned out to be the paint that he had used(Blackboard paint)

It turned out that the blackboard paint I used for this track was indeed conductive... I used the same paint, same brand (but different can) for my last track a couple of years ago (still have the track) and that paint is not conductive?! I guess they changed the paint during the last few years.

A tip here on the forum pointed me to a solution: to sand/grind away a stretch of paint between all lanes and paint it over with non-conductive paint. I'll be doing that the next week.
 

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Do you have a dremel? If so, I see an investment in a grout removing tool attachment. It's a bit like a router, but held at a consistent angle for visibility... used in conjunction with a very fine tool... seeing as you only need to take a skim off to remove the naughty paint, should get that sorted in no time at all. Then fill the groove with caulk and paint.

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=121535

I think the worst part about it is the colour matching with your new paint
 

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Ian
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I love this track, I think its great, so much so I was thinking of emulating it…. but….. and I have been worrying about this all night, the white plastic surround blocks the drivers view when going over the bridge would it be possible to switch to a section of clear Perspex just for the overpass?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks Funky Driver.

I do have a Dremel and I see this machine as a solution for my problems


I'm still not shure if I want to make a clean, straight, but deeper interruption (with a small saw or drill) or if I'm going to make a more gradual removal of a strip of paint (by means of a fine grinder). I manually grinded a piece with sandpaper and that looks more easy to repair than a deeper, steeper interruption. The latter will need to be filled too, while the gradual manner will only require a repaint.
 
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