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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm a newby and I bought some resin bodies but I'm having real problems painting them.
Ive washed them with detergent............ Ive even washed them with acetone !!!!! but I just cant get spray cellulose car touch-up to cover them

I've tried to "Mist" them - then with more "Mist" but the finish always results in areas where the paint seems to run-away leaving the bare resin surface in patches. Can anybody help me?
 

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I use electrical contact cleaner from Maplins to degrease the bare shell. Then use an acrylic grey or white primer followed up by an acrylic topcoat.

Cellulose? The work of the devil! Avoid!

Take your time, let coats go dry or tacky before spraying again. Read a book or watch TV between coat to avoid the temptation of going back and loading more paint onto the model too soon.

Better still, spray last thing at night and then go to bed.

The shell will look fab first thing the next day. If you need another coat give it a quick spray and by the time you come home from work it will look even better.

Time invested at this point will pay back in spades later on!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I didn't prime them no. I thought the resin would be the same as white plastic to paint. More than meets the eye to all this building - I'll try some acrylic.
 

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QUOTE (AlyMac @ 10 Mar 2012, 10:12) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I didn't prime them no. I thought the resin would be the same as white plastic to paint. More than meets the eye to all this building - I'll try some acrylic.

Sometimes you can get away with no primer on certain plastics but I've never had a resin body that didn't need a coat of primer first.

I use Humbrol Acrylic paints and the beauty is that they dry really quickly too.

Some Halfords car paints are now acrylic. I used Vauxhall Regatta Blue Halfords acrylic to paint all my Tyrrell's. It dries in no time and leaves a beautiful sheen finish.

Cheap as chips too and it goes a long way. I've done 4 Tyrrells using the same paint can and there is still about half a tin of paint left!

Welcome to Slot Forum AlyMac!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Unfortunately maplins and Halfords are about 1,000 miles away from Majorca

- I can get acrylic paints from Palma though. I think the acetone should degrease the bodies effectively enough for painting.
Thanks again for the advice gents
 

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One petunia in a field of onions
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Probably should be careful with acetone around resin. Not sure. But acetone can be rather detrimental to a lot of things. Tends to turn solids to not quite solids.

I often wondered if priming was a necessary step, but have certainly decided that it's worth doing. Even if just doing a quick and dirty job for a single use. Priming evens out the underlying colour in instances where you've not completely stripped something that is getting repainted. If painting something that has not been painted prior, the priming does help the paint bond to the substrate. A primed paint job is less susceptible to chipping, scratching and similar wear and tear.

Cheers
Embs
 

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Hi Guys,

Follow IanH's advice, and all should be good.

Some "Pro's" spray 2 or 3 mist coats, each before the previous has fully dried, and then a wet coat to finish.

This approach takes practice to perfect, IanH's is more or less fool-proof.

Always warm the body and the spray can !!.

Not sure whether that applies to Majorca or Ozz, but it does here !!.

And always cover whilst drying, to avoid settling dust. A slotcar case is good for this !!.

vbr Chris A.
 

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Rich Dumas
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Sometimes when a resin body gets cast the release agent gets mixed with the resin, in that case the release agent will not be easy to remove. Some casters do not use a release agent by the way. If there is release agent incorporated in the resin there may be no paint that will stick well. If you are lucky repeated washings with dish washing liquid and alcohol will remove the release agent so you can at least get a primer to stick.
 
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