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Dave Kennedy
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541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I got a 934 for Christmas and it's been frustrating to get the car to handle. The car was slower than my non-magnet 356. I wired down the rear axle and replaced the rubber with Ortmann's but the car still is a bit bouncy.

Has anyone done any modifications to this car? Anyone have pictures?

DK
 

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Scott Brownlee
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4,275 Posts
Not sure I can help. I got mine, whipped out the dreaded magent and had a blast. I'm unconvinced about Ninco's suspension, but the 934 is like all other Nincos - great running straight out the box.
 

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Alan Tadd
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4,039 Posts
Same here. My Jagermeister car flies without magnet and no weight added.

I haven't noticed any "bounce" at all.

I have heard that some people remove the suspension system, but I don't see any need.

Regards

Alan
 

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First off it sounds as if your wheels/ tires are out of round, but I am assuming that you already checked that? Asside from that I have had several older Ninco's that have had a problem with throttle induced wheel hop, this might be made worse by changing to a grippier tire as the car is alternately finding & loosing traction. A couple of suggestions. Change to a higher ohm rated controller, Ninco motors arre very sensitive & a higher ohm rating will smooth out the power delivery. Sand/ True the tires.
 

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Hi guys.
I'd second masmojo's words.
Ninco cars are the mainstays of my club's racing classes and some of their wheels are terrible. It takes a lot of sorting to find four reasonably round ones.
The 934 has an additional complication as well. The Fuchs pattern wheels that come with this car are very pretty but are also moulded in two separate pieces. The rims are bonded to the hubs so when you're looking at the roundness of the drivetrain, this is one more thing to check out.
Regards,
Lowrider.
 

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QUOTE (13davek @ 2 Jan 2005, 21:40)So I got a 934 for Christmas and it's been frustrating to get the car to handle. The car was slower than my non-magnet 356. I wired down the rear axle and replaced the rubber with Ortmann's but the car still is a bit bouncy.

Has anyone done any modifications to this car? Anyone have pictures?

DK
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Nobody mentioned check for a bent axle, it has been known on new cars.
 

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Hi there,

I did it the radical way and threw out the suspension system. Then I lowered the body a bit by cutting the screw-posts, the damper-columns and the little profile on the inside of the doors, which usually keep the chassis from sinking lower into the body. Of course you have to work on the inlet also to give room for the motor. I was very lucky to have really true axles and wheels on my 934-Jäger, so I just had to sand the tires and glue the bearings to the chassis ´cause otherwise they intend to move and thus give the axles the possibility to shake around. The motor has been fixed with glue, also, of course.

Best regards

Ulli
 

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Dave Kennedy
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541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was unable to do any sanding on the tires. I tried but the tires just skipped around on the sandpaper. I also lowered the car substantially because out of the box it's WAY to high, it looked more like an off road car than roadcoarse racer.

The axles on my car seem to be good, and the wheels see to be good to. But the wheels did have an extra rib around them, which I sanded off. The tires also left a noticable layer of residue around the track. There is almost a groove around the lanes of the San Francisco Grand Prix now.

I may end up replacing the whole chassis...but I can't bring myself to do it yet. Because I hate the idea that every car I have has to have the chassis changed to make it a good runner.

Further, I'm interested to hear that some people feel their cars run well. I can't see how this is possible since mine is such a dog. Even with the magnets it's really slow when I timed it at my uncle's track (Revell track). Which makes me think that "runs well" is sooooo subjective that I wish there were a standard of feet per second that most people could talk in when we tell each other about the relative speed of our cars so we could judge what's really fast and what's just OK.

DK
 

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QUOTE (lowrider @ 3 Jan 2005, 18:43)Sounds cool Ulli.
How does it run now compared with out of the box?
Lowrider.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Lowrider,

I´m very happy with my car because it runs very smooth. Meanwhile I added some led BELOW the chassis: 5 gramms in front of the rear-wheels. And on the chassis-top I added 5 gramms behind the guide, from which I removed the spring since it intended to lift the car when being fully accelerated.

I also removed the NC5-motor and glued in a Proslot Evo2 in order to get a similar performance to my Fly cars, which worked very well. This of course changed the weight distribution a bit towards the rear and that´s why I also added some led in the front as discribed. The lead infront of the rear wheels keeps the car from fishtailing too much.

When it comes to PURE performance I know that the "downgrading" of the motor does not really help, but the ultimate speed to me is not the essence, at all. I want a drivable car that fits to the rest of my "slot stable" - and the 934 hasn´t been the fastest racer, which we all know, as it was a Group 4-GT. So I´m snobbish enough to say, that my 1:32nd 934 should better not be much faster than my 935 or Turbo-Capris etc.


Best regards

Ulli
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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Like all things 'slotcar' our appreciation of what is fast and handles well is relational to what we are used to racing.

The Ninco 934 runs very much like a Fly Ferrari 365. It slides all over the place and clocks in very slow times. If you don't use slide borders on your track layout then the 934 is a waste of time. However, if you like slide racing and don't want to worry about outright speed and grip then, like the Fly Ferari 365, the car is total fun and enjoyment.

I've had my suspension out, in, and even stiffened up with styrene tubing...either way the 934 is still a slider that runs slow laptimes. I've even screwed on a small bar Carrera magnet. It's still slow and slides all over the place.

Over 65feet it turns in 1 second slower laps than a Ninco Healey (with skinny tyres and shorter axles).

Clean your tyres with sellotape as (like all Ninco tyres) they lose grip by picking up dirt faster than The Sun.
 

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Well, on my winding 47ft Sport track with 9ft straight and lots of R2, my Ninco Jag (NC-1 w/some lead) runs mid 7 sec laps. This is about the same as the Healey and Ferrari TR. The 934 runs high 6 sec. laps, which is about mid pack for my non mag cars. The rally cars run in the high 7s/ low 8s and the quickest Flys (512 & 917/10) and Nincos (McLaren GTR) are in the low 6s. The Fly race and Slot It cars can touch high 5s with clean tires/track.

I think the 934 is one of the nicest handling non mag cars, very predictable, especially considering the short wheelbase/guide lead. The Fly Ferrari 365 is much looser and has a slightly wobbly wheel (maybe why). The Greenwood Vettes, both the Scaley and Mono (both weighted), run very even with the 934 (no weight added). I wish that Ninco would make a Ferrari 365BB LM Proshock to run with the 934!!
 

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Premium Member
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In my position as editor of the NSCC Journal I receive virtually every Ninco car as they are released. My normal policy is to send them out for review to various members - Plug for NSCC - another reason to join folks - free cars!

However, before despatching them I do tend to check they are ok by giving them a whirl myself! I don't know if it is a peculiarity of our club track (100ft routed wood/copper tape with 2 x 30ft straights) but virtually every car exhibits the infamous Ninco hop. As soon as you flatten the throttle the back wheels bounce quite violently. On the other hand, the people who do the reviews rarely report this; possibly because most of them race on plexytrack and the magnet, as always, will mask handling faults.

This is far worse with older models such as the McLaren F1 when they are re-released with the NC-5 motor. We have spent a lot of time observing this and the collective opinion of the members is that the motor has too much torque for the chassis - you can actually see it twisting and the wheels lifting when you apply full power.

Some do have wheels out of true or bent axles but most are perfectly ok in that department. The problem is not so apparent on my small home track with a 12v supply but let them loose on a big track with 18v and they can be virtually undriveable.

I actually use a Ninco Audi TT in our saloon class and it became very competitive after we eliminated the bounce. Apart from the usual gluing in of motor and axle, truing the tyres and adding a small amount of lead in each corner the thing that really transformed it was raising the gearing with a change of pinion and crownwheel.

With a higher top speed but less acceleration it has become a joy to drive and the bounce is completely eliminated.

Horses for courses as all tracks are different but worth a try perhaps.

Brian
 
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