No, Ninco aren’t releasing a load of updated of 1/32 cars with new chassis designs etc. for non-magnet running, not that I know of. Instead I’ve converted a bunch models that I can’t bring myself to part company with but do otherwise just sit in their boxes.
![Image]()
All this is made possible, as I’ve done a (virtual) handshake deal with Abel Quiles at Mini Racing Studios in Spain to bulk buy items from chassis to spares (interesting wings & mirrors in flexible rubber). Abel has a number of well-developed 3Dp chassis for a large selection of Ninco models as they have raced these models at club level for some time now in Espana. Most chassis’ now include some digital chip prep.
![Image]()
Ninco had their time in our slot car world and bought us some excellent models, as detailed as Scalextric at the time, perhaps not the display level of detail as Fly but Ninco did run better without magnets, with a little effort. As I recall, NSR started out by making parts for Ninco cars in the same fashion that Slot It started by making quality parts for Scalextric cars. I like the Ninco scale for the most part, more in keeping with NSR & most come with flat tray interiors. When converting cars to 3D chassis one of the issues is interiors and the need to change full interiors. Options range from:
I favour my “hybrid” choice allowing for all three configurations; Angle Winder, In-Line or Sidewinder, compromised weight saving, retaining some detail. Most Ninco models come with flat tray interiors heat welded in place and don’t need any work done to them, save for chopping any sections to hold bushes/axles in place.
First up is the car that inspired my “Silver & Black” collection of cars, including white kit paint jobs on Slot It’s Mercedes 190 & C Class DTM, Ninco’s BMW M3 GTR, road version Silver with black roof. Available as AW only so I will need to deal with the interior as I intend to give this car a run in our Touring Cars class at Wood Green, North London. That class is in-line or sidewinder only and limited choice of motors includes Slot It Flat 6 (closed side facing rails) and Slot It MX15 or Scale Auto Tech-1, tops of both S-cans motors need more room.
![Image]()
Even with the tinted glass I would like to keep the interior dash detail, so it’s a case chopping out the middle section and replacing with suitable lexan piece. OK, not as lightweight as a complete lexan but I am retaining some interior detail. Also the interior goes back matching the original fixing points, albeit heat welded in.
![Image]()
![Image]()
The chassis is a straightforward affair; nicely trimmed around the edges the rear section has little lower rear splitter detail. It didn’t need any sanding to allow free movement. The car body on this model sits on the sides and front of the chassis. I’ll be asking for a slight mod to the front for the BMW M3 GTR to include another 1 or 2mm plus of front spoiler/splitter. That could save the front end from body damage in a head-on meeting with skirting boards or barriers!
![Image]()
Front side grille covers are part of chassis, set back and don’t interfere with body/chassis movement but nothing for the massive front air scope. I think it’s left out to prevent any interference with guide wires. I may consider some speaker cover cloth glued to the inside front or black tape to cover this but for now I want to see lap times and potential before details are addressed, so best left alone.
![Image]()
I like a number of other chassis makers work (more well known & costing a lot more too) all are very experience and produce excellent chassis, my only criticism is they are thin & do flex more than I’d like. OK they are lightweight but I do have a few which after an impact or two have cracked front areas. They cost half as much as again these chassis, ouch!
![Image]()
These chassis’s are a bit thicker and have more support ridges to make them a little stiffer. I reckon this makes them ideal for use on all tracks, wood to plastic. They all feel like they are nearly NSR white chassis hard, certainly more than NSR standard black plastic. I also like thicker posts with some strengthening work. On all the chassis I built (5 Ninco models in total) none needed any sanding around the Slot It motor mounts, the mount screw hole did benefit from a light running with small round file or craft knife.
These chassis guide-post is set for Scaleauto & Slotting Plus screw in guides. I’m told the Scaleauto is the thinnest and chassis comes prepped for that particular guide. That means if you want use a standard or screw in Slot It or NSR items you will to run a round file inside the post, just a little mind. If you want re-use the Ninco guide (my home racer friends) then you will need to file more. This also means if you ever want to change from NInco to Slot It, NSR or Scaleauto you will need screw in type and they will have more play. Take your pick.
If like me you want retain the plastic detailed front Ninco wheels then you need to use that axle too. The side axle holders benefit from a little filing to run freely for the original Ninco axle, no issues for 3/32 NSR or Slot It axles. Top & bottom axle adjustment is by regular M2 screws. I’ve used Sideways non-friction skinny tyres to get that just off the track front wheel set up I like.
For this model I’ve had a bit luck for the Slot It 17” rear aluminium wheels. I’ve been able to use Ninco Motor Sport double spoke, metal etched inserts, after painting the back of wheel black. It’s as close to the front shiny wheels as I can manage, I likes it!
For the bumpy Scalextric Sport, painted surface, 6-lane, 9m+ straight section track at the London Scalextric Club (Wood Green North London), I have added a little weight in the mount and suspension. I’ve done a few laps and with the MX15 motor, IL config, I don’t need any weight up-front. I suspect a higher torque long can motor like the NSR King Evo may need weight up front to prevent lifting but non in the mount.
And the other final thing that peaked my interest in items available from Min Racing Studios are the range of flexible wings and side mirrors on offer. I’ve removed the original venerable spoiler on this M3 GTR and added the rubber wing. It’s not as flimsy as the Sideways rubber wings & retains its shape/form/upright position better. It flexes enough and should resist damages from most impacts.
![Image]()
I’m going to suggest these parts be available in white rubber for those who may want to paint different colours, for my car, it should be black.
I’m still working on gearing using the MX15 motor, which I am determined to make good on. For this model I suspect really it’s the Flat 6 (as has proved true for the Mercedes CLK DTM, “Mika” no.3). That is ready to be raced in the next round of Touring Cars for a real evaluation, albeit on the very inside and outside lanes only, as long as my on-form Slot It Calibra does it job on the inner 4 lanes, 4 best results from all 6 lanes counts towards the evenings points, based on most distance covered.
If you want to have a go and bring your favourite Ninco model back to the track then you have many options to get these chassis and spares.
From me, send a PM via this Forum – best if you also need Slot It or NSR spares to build the chassis, as I’m giving 20% off UK retail prices and the chassis’ are £10 each, postage for 1 chassis starts at £1.50 regular 2ndclass postage. I should have more chassis in the UK soon, delivery from Spain by mule takes 10 days plus. If I have them I usually post out next day after PayPal “cash” is received.
From Mini Racing Studios– via PM contact in this Forum or
From eBay Mini Racing Studios– via excellent eBay shop, postage reasonable £3 to £4 depending on what’s ordered.
Max
All this is made possible, as I’ve done a (virtual) handshake deal with Abel Quiles at Mini Racing Studios in Spain to bulk buy items from chassis to spares (interesting wings & mirrors in flexible rubber). Abel has a number of well-developed 3Dp chassis for a large selection of Ninco models as they have raced these models at club level for some time now in Espana. Most chassis’ now include some digital chip prep.
Ninco had their time in our slot car world and bought us some excellent models, as detailed as Scalextric at the time, perhaps not the display level of detail as Fly but Ninco did run better without magnets, with a little effort. As I recall, NSR started out by making parts for Ninco cars in the same fashion that Slot It started by making quality parts for Scalextric cars. I like the Ninco scale for the most part, more in keeping with NSR & most come with flat tray interiors. When converting cars to 3D chassis one of the issues is interiors and the need to change full interiors. Options range from:
- Removing completing and replacing with less detailed lexan type, which gives most saving in weight from top of car & a must do for “killer race cars” or
- Chopping lower sections, retain original top sections, my choice for keeping detail, not planning any outright wins or
- Hybrid choice, removing middle driver section, retaining dash detail & rear section & sides. Makes most sense if the original is clip in type, like most Scalextric and NOT heat welded in.
I favour my “hybrid” choice allowing for all three configurations; Angle Winder, In-Line or Sidewinder, compromised weight saving, retaining some detail. Most Ninco models come with flat tray interiors heat welded in place and don’t need any work done to them, save for chopping any sections to hold bushes/axles in place.
First up is the car that inspired my “Silver & Black” collection of cars, including white kit paint jobs on Slot It’s Mercedes 190 & C Class DTM, Ninco’s BMW M3 GTR, road version Silver with black roof. Available as AW only so I will need to deal with the interior as I intend to give this car a run in our Touring Cars class at Wood Green, North London. That class is in-line or sidewinder only and limited choice of motors includes Slot It Flat 6 (closed side facing rails) and Slot It MX15 or Scale Auto Tech-1, tops of both S-cans motors need more room.
Even with the tinted glass I would like to keep the interior dash detail, so it’s a case chopping out the middle section and replacing with suitable lexan piece. OK, not as lightweight as a complete lexan but I am retaining some interior detail. Also the interior goes back matching the original fixing points, albeit heat welded in.
The chassis is a straightforward affair; nicely trimmed around the edges the rear section has little lower rear splitter detail. It didn’t need any sanding to allow free movement. The car body on this model sits on the sides and front of the chassis. I’ll be asking for a slight mod to the front for the BMW M3 GTR to include another 1 or 2mm plus of front spoiler/splitter. That could save the front end from body damage in a head-on meeting with skirting boards or barriers!
Front side grille covers are part of chassis, set back and don’t interfere with body/chassis movement but nothing for the massive front air scope. I think it’s left out to prevent any interference with guide wires. I may consider some speaker cover cloth glued to the inside front or black tape to cover this but for now I want to see lap times and potential before details are addressed, so best left alone.
I like a number of other chassis makers work (more well known & costing a lot more too) all are very experience and produce excellent chassis, my only criticism is they are thin & do flex more than I’d like. OK they are lightweight but I do have a few which after an impact or two have cracked front areas. They cost half as much as again these chassis, ouch!
These chassis’s are a bit thicker and have more support ridges to make them a little stiffer. I reckon this makes them ideal for use on all tracks, wood to plastic. They all feel like they are nearly NSR white chassis hard, certainly more than NSR standard black plastic. I also like thicker posts with some strengthening work. On all the chassis I built (5 Ninco models in total) none needed any sanding around the Slot It motor mounts, the mount screw hole did benefit from a light running with small round file or craft knife.
These chassis guide-post is set for Scaleauto & Slotting Plus screw in guides. I’m told the Scaleauto is the thinnest and chassis comes prepped for that particular guide. That means if you want use a standard or screw in Slot It or NSR items you will to run a round file inside the post, just a little mind. If you want re-use the Ninco guide (my home racer friends) then you will need to file more. This also means if you ever want to change from NInco to Slot It, NSR or Scaleauto you will need screw in type and they will have more play. Take your pick.
If like me you want retain the plastic detailed front Ninco wheels then you need to use that axle too. The side axle holders benefit from a little filing to run freely for the original Ninco axle, no issues for 3/32 NSR or Slot It axles. Top & bottom axle adjustment is by regular M2 screws. I’ve used Sideways non-friction skinny tyres to get that just off the track front wheel set up I like.
For this model I’ve had a bit luck for the Slot It 17” rear aluminium wheels. I’ve been able to use Ninco Motor Sport double spoke, metal etched inserts, after painting the back of wheel black. It’s as close to the front shiny wheels as I can manage, I likes it!
For the bumpy Scalextric Sport, painted surface, 6-lane, 9m+ straight section track at the London Scalextric Club (Wood Green North London), I have added a little weight in the mount and suspension. I’ve done a few laps and with the MX15 motor, IL config, I don’t need any weight up-front. I suspect a higher torque long can motor like the NSR King Evo may need weight up front to prevent lifting but non in the mount.
And the other final thing that peaked my interest in items available from Min Racing Studios are the range of flexible wings and side mirrors on offer. I’ve removed the original venerable spoiler on this M3 GTR and added the rubber wing. It’s not as flimsy as the Sideways rubber wings & retains its shape/form/upright position better. It flexes enough and should resist damages from most impacts.
I’m going to suggest these parts be available in white rubber for those who may want to paint different colours, for my car, it should be black.
I’m still working on gearing using the MX15 motor, which I am determined to make good on. For this model I suspect really it’s the Flat 6 (as has proved true for the Mercedes CLK DTM, “Mika” no.3). That is ready to be raced in the next round of Touring Cars for a real evaluation, albeit on the very inside and outside lanes only, as long as my on-form Slot It Calibra does it job on the inner 4 lanes, 4 best results from all 6 lanes counts towards the evenings points, based on most distance covered.
If you want to have a go and bring your favourite Ninco model back to the track then you have many options to get these chassis and spares.
From me, send a PM via this Forum – best if you also need Slot It or NSR spares to build the chassis, as I’m giving 20% off UK retail prices and the chassis’ are £10 each, postage for 1 chassis starts at £1.50 regular 2ndclass postage. I should have more chassis in the UK soon, delivery from Spain by mule takes 10 days plus. If I have them I usually post out next day after PayPal “cash” is received.
From Mini Racing Studios– via PM contact in this Forum or
From eBay Mini Racing Studios– via excellent eBay shop, postage reasonable £3 to £4 depending on what’s ordered.
Max
