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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,
My NSR Porshes and Corvettes do the Ninco hop. Had a close look at chassis/motor pod. Seems to be sa lot of flex in chassis. Anyone else notice this? Also do NSR make a stiffer chassis for these? Any help appreciated.

Rick

PS Im still after someone to paint 10 new cars into new liveries. PM if interested.
 

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I think they do I'man. But we run those Porsches at Larkfield - you know the level of grip there is staggering because of all the rubber laid down on the track and yet we dont have ninco hop with them. Tipping yes, if the cars are not set up right.
Try running the body very loose and also slacken off the motor pod so it has quite a bit of movement. It seems counter-intuitive, but if you allow the whole thing to float it must soak up that energy as we don't see hop at all...
 

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QUOTE (RikoRocket @ 23 Nov 2011, 20:50) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I think they do I'man. But we run those Porsches at Larkfield - you know the level of grip there is staggering because of all the rubber laid down on the track and yet we dont have ninco hop with them. Tipping yes, if the cars are not set up right.
Try running the body very loose and also slacken off the motor pod so it has quite a bit of movement. It seems counter-intuitive, but if you allow the whole thing to float it must soak up that energy as we don't see hop at all...

Tried that, it made it worse. Thats why I posted.

Noticed the NSRs come with shorter screws now. If you loosen them they can fall out. Think I need to buy longer screws too so I can try again.

BTW its a Scaley Sports track.

QUOTE (syd bennett @ 23 Nov 2011, 21:00) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Have you glued the motor into the mount ?

I was going to but under hard acceleration there is no motor slop at all. However will glue anyway. Thanks.
 

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Hi
glue motor in, glue & true rear tyres, tighten motor mount screws, fit longer body mount screws & leave loose. The next bit works on the porsche but I found the corvette didn't require it as its wheelbase is slightly longer and is better balanced - remove the drop arm adjusting screw and replace it with a metal pin just long enough so that it doesn't pass completely through the hole on maximum drop, superglue into drop arm, you will have to elongate the hole front to rear it travels through to allow it to move through its arc. This mod allows max drop on the drop arm & the pin limits the twist in the drop arm when cornering. The issue you have maybe the guide lifting under exceleration and the braids loosing contact with the track. If your on scaley track are you using the standard power supply, cos if you are its voltage is a bit too high. We found running @ 12v allows better driveability with the porsche.

Hope this helps.
regards
syd
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks,
Yup I always glue n true. Voltage is 10V . I'm dropping past a nut and bolt engineering shop today so I'll see what they have on self tapered or try MB slot screws.
 

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They're fast, Ive got an NSR Porsche here that goes 99% as hard as a Mosler. Now thats saying something. The motors seem very torquey. Even on 10V these things are deadly. I wonder if a smaller King, say a 18K is available? Now that would be nice on 12V for home tracks.
 

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Jan Groosmuller
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NSR do (or did) a King 16.800RPM, 211 g.cm motor, you will need the NSR 3011.
Mind you, changing towards a 11 teeth pinion does help a bit too


I've been testing with a mate lately, and the classic NSR cars run beautifully @ 8 Volts... on a home track and with the shark 20k sidewinder that is


Very close racing, total control and less damage
 

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Hi, have you checked the pinion on early corvette's they put on a 14t a couple of our racer's bought these and were dissapointed with the way they were handling compared to the sure footed of the moseler's we race ( wood track ). phil.
 

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Don't glue the motor in. Use the screw hole provided. At least that way you can take the motor back out if needed. The setup for wood and plastic are two very different things on these cars. As standard they're supplied with fairly stiff chassis and motor mounts. This tends to favour wood tracks or very smooth plastic. For smaller or home tracks you may have more success with the softer chassis and mounts. Also the Porsche is supplied with either solid or air hub rear wheels depending on whether it's a rally or race version. The airhubs are a lot more forgiving and generally allow the power to be put down more smoothly from the very torquey King motor. Unless your running the car on a track with sudden changes you might as well lock the drop arm off completely by doing the screw up tight with a quarter turn back to stop any chassis distortion.
Hope some of this helps
 
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