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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,
Heres a dummies guide for the Ninco XLC. Enjoy.

Stage one, mark out the LED holes.

Make the hole 12mm offset as shown. Use 6mm for slow parts of the track, 7mm for average speeds, 8mm for high speed.



Next hot glue the LB in place using 4 small dobs of glue onto the LB then placing on track. Make sure you leave room for the LEDs.
Note all the Lane 1 wires going towards Lane 1 and the same for Lane 2.
Use hotglue to fix neatly in place. Shorten wires to ensure a neat installation.



Next use sidecutters to trim the LED PCB to allow the LED to be centred correctly.

Tip: Not shown but use the offcut to pack the LED 1.6 mm (thickness of PCB) deeper in the hole. Glue packer to LED PCB then glue PCB to track undrerside.



Next hot glue into place the 2 Lane Change and the 2 Anti Collision LED PCBs



Next solder in the solenoid driver wires. Use fine sandpaper to remove varnish of solenoid winding wires so solder can adhere. Use hotglue to fix wires in place so they cannot short.
Wires for solenoids are not polarity sensitive so solder in any order.



'
Next glue in the reset switch so it can be quickly accessed. Extend if required. Here a dremel was used to cut a slot to pass the wires.



Next "liven" the flipper.





Split the liven flipper wire so it it can be wired to the flipper itself and the section after the flipper, often where cars get stranded.

Note: Yellow wire is silicon wire. Solder to copper tape.

Now use a short loop of wire (red in the pictures) to 'liven' the deasdstrip. No more deadstrips, yay!



Wire poking through ready to copper tape.



Now add copper tape. Reinstall the solenoid cover.



Now program the ID, ready to use.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Profoxcq,
By the way I forgot to mention I removed the unused solenoid wires off the PCB by desoldering them.

The principle of the install for the Carrera LC is the same.

And similar too for SSD, the only difference is connecting the solenoids that allow the car to pass "straight'.

Rick
 

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Ok just to clarify the LED is what I call a beacon.
So the critical distances are:
1)LED beacon to tip of flipper
. Answer 160mm on average, but can be increased up to say 250 mm for EXTREMELY fast sectiuons of the track.

2)The distance the eye of the LED below the track surface. Generally speaking 4mm. Hence why you need to shim or pack the LED PCBs.
I will show a pic later on this.

Originally the LED PCB was designed around a double sided tape install, which is thick enough to "pack" the LED to the correct depth below track surface. However double sided tape I realised is messy, ie it doesnt come off easily and leaves everything looking terrible. Hot glue on the other hand, if you make an error just let it cool and peel off, it looks new again ready to try again. Its the ONLY way to go. Its cheap, easy, quick, strong and non permanent. Nothing matches it for the task at hand.

Of course if you put the LED too close to the flipper the guide will hit the flipper BEFORE it gets a chance to move.
If you put the LED too far away from the flipper the car very close in front of you can change with you against the other cars wishes.
Here you can 'delay' the firing of the solenoid rather than physically reposition it. Neat function.

If the LED beacon is positioned too far away from the flipper then the problems mentioned above will be especially noticeable with Ninco LCs are they are "sprung". As soon as the solenoid loses its charge the spring does its job and returns the flipper VERY quickly, causing the car to deslot or simply go straight through.

SSD LCs are more forgiving as they are a 2 solenoid per flipper design, im my opinion the way to go. Remember the Peco solenid is really 2 solenoids joined together for you timber track guys.

Carrera LCs are different as the reset is mechanical, and at the correct moment too, so not as touchy as the Ninco LC.

All 3 brands work perfectly with Scorpius and all get the job done. All 3 can fit the Lane Brain in the track itself so no enclosure is required.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes you could make a hybrid SSD/Scorpius/Carrera/Ninco LC, a way to get around the compatibility issue. Diodes I suspect would need to be added to stop damage to either electronics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
QUOTE (Profoxcg @ 18 Jul 2011, 13:39) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>hi guys, as I prepare for my Ninco surgery, I have a some questions about installing a S/F track,
I wonder if for this, I need to install at 4 beacons.

No, as anti collision and lapcounting are unrelated functions.

QUOTE I do plan to use A/C on the ninco test track. I also noticed the beacon installs take place on full straights. Is this mainly to be able to house the LC board?

The full straight before the XLC is to house he LB yes. It can be installed in an enclosure anywhere of course. I do not recommend the XLC be after a curve though.

Rick
 

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AC will need to be or off permanently, its not switchable.
To activate or not activate AC you must reconfigure each LB.
Have a read of the user and install manuals as there is a lot of good information in there.

Rick
 

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QUOTE (Profoxcg @ 18 Jul 2011, 15:01) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>okay, so lets say I installs the AC beacons all around my track on every LC. When I use PEARL, PEARL will work, but the AC beacons will not deter or prevent collisions.
By the same token, can I install the AC beacons to the start/finish line and expect them to do nothing with AC turned on (they do nothing because there no LC attached to that LB at the moment) OR will the interfere with lap counting?

PEARL will not operate with AC yet as mentioned. Its a lot of work so we will not be getting to this aspect anytime soon. It is possible though.

AC beacons cannot be installed unless its activated. If they are installed they must not be visible to the car. Tape isnt much good as IR travels through it. I use Blutac during tests but to me not a solution.

To achieve every possible function at once the LB would need to be considerably dearer as a lot more hardware (2 additional LED drivers at least) and a bigger CPU required. This would have made the LB way too expensive. This is why I recommend liven flipper and PEARL be the priority to hard core enthusiasts. As it is the LB is $99, which to me is the maximum price break, anything over $99 would be unattractive price wise. Sorry even Scorpius has its limitations


Sorry the PEARL invention came after the LB was developed. Its just an option.

QUOTE (MrFlippant @ 18 Jul 2011, 15:01) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I thought AC was part of the LC setup, and could be configured to be on or off when you configure the LB.
Correct. I guess if you only have a few LBs its not too bad, but say if you had quite a few it would be a pain.

Rick
 

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QUOTE (injectorman @ 12 Jun 2011, 21:04) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Guys,
Heres a dummies guide for the Ninco XLC. Enjoy.

Stage one, mark out the LED holes.

Make the hole 12mm offset as shown. Use 6mm for slow parts of the track, 7mm for average speeds, 8mm for high speed.



Correction. It should read:

"Make the centre of the hole 12mm offset as shown. The hole should be 8.5 mm diameter regardless of speed" Covers are not recommended.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Hi,
I thought you were doing a plastic track install with no exit flipper and therefore a move and liven exit flipper function is not in the equation.
For what youre requesting you need both LC LEDs and AC LEDS installed.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Yes all 4 LEDs are essential.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
QUOTE (Profoxcg @ 19 Jul 2011, 13:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Does that LC beacon actually do anything at all on the straight lane? - if so what does it do? , does it count anything? does it help with AC, will it help with pearl?
Give us the correct reason, this way we or at least I understand how this system works so I can move on to a timber install successfully.

I guess maybe I should ask. IF I do not install the LC beacon on the straight lane, what WILL NOT work?

The LC beacon on the straight lane as you call it in pair with the AC beacon on the same lane defines the AC zone.

QUOTE (Nigel Pendrigh @ 20 Jul 2011, 00:17) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Is there a hardware constraint that does not allow you to quickly switch between activate and de-activate AC via the set up software?

No, except due to the fact each LB is unique because of ID, each LB has to be reconfigured seperately.

QUOTE (Merc_A @ 24 Jul 2011, 02:00) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>One quick question here (i'm installing an LB right now):

I know about the unused leds like for instance AC leds - they must be removed or hidden.
What about unused wires?
for instance, a single Ninco LC without Anti colllision and without liven flipper - the only thing i have to install is the power wires, the lane one LC led and the green lane one solenoid wires.

So i don't need the lane one "straight" wires, nor any of the lane two wires.
I'll hide the AC leds and unused lane two LC led. Can i remove all the other remaining wires?

Merc

For Ninco I completely desolder the unused solenoid driver wires, and cut unused LED driver wire pairs to about 10mm and join together to complete the circuit. This keeps things looking neat and tidy and this is important for a professional looking install.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
No, the anti collision beacon is simply there to give distance to cover 2 car lengths, ie the front bumper of the trailing car might be adjacent rear bumper of car ahead. But this AC beacon is too far ahead of the flipper, meaning a car immediately in front of it would change lanes unintentionally. So the need for 2 beacons, AC and LC.
However there is a time out function of 20m/S. So if car stops in between AC and LC, the AC function will time out as well as the flipper functionality.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Oops I meant time out function is 1/20 th sec or 50 m/S.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Yes, on the LB itself with a dip switch built into the pcb.
 

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It cannot be done any other way other than reconfigure seperately or via a switch which was only a suggestion. Either way nothing will be made redundant even if parts are ever upgraded. It is what it is. See post 31.

Rick
 
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