SlotForum banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
263 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi.
I've had the above car for years.
I gave it a clean up last week, tune etc. when I took it to the track it almost didn't go. So slow!
I've just inspected the car and discovered the gear mesh is locking. Now initially I was looking for mashed or squashed tooth on either of the gears. I found nothing.
What I did find is that after about 3/4 rotation that the gears were locking because two teeth were literally colliding.
I have no idea how to fix this. The motor seems to be firmly mounted, and the axle assembly seems correct.
What I was hoping to do was take the opportunity to upgrade the gears to something better, either nylon or metal.
Any recommendations? Is slot it the way to go here?

Thanks in advance.

jarrod
 

·
Tel
Joined
·
4,094 Posts
The Axles on Ninco are not 3/32, so you either need to replace the complete rear axle, bearings and wheels to use Slot It or NSR parts, or use Ninco pro-race parts (listed as std, not 3/32).
I find the Ninco Pro race gears OK but not up to Slot.it / NSR standard, but it will be the cheapest option. 32/12 gearing is Ninco's standard aw gearing IIRC..

NSR do do a kit containing a pinion, aw gear and spacer for Ninco (part no. 6704), but I am unsure if its meant for the standard ninco Axle or their own ...
They also do a kit containing axle,bearings, aw gear, oinion and ally wheels (part no. 4013).
Slot it also do a kit similar to above part no. SI-KK09.

Or you could buy the parts seperate.
 

·
Peter Christie
Joined
·
1,835 Posts
Hey Dude, annoying when this happens, I've found allsorts of reasons, fluff, bits of tyre etc in the gears but usually there is something broke or bent. You could run a mesh paste in the gears but generally check bearings in the chassis for chassis cracks, check gears closely for damage especially if they are plastic. Worst case senario is a bent motor arm as it extends onto the pinion.....look very closely. If you change stuff, with slot it for example, the best solution would be axle, bearings and gears...which is expensive but will last longer than the plastic ninco gears.
 

·
Slot Car Racer and Builder
Joined
·
1,845 Posts
It may be that the pinion is split. Savage pretty well nailed the replacement options it all depends on how far you want to go - I have both Ninco Prorace and NSR rear ends in some of my Ninco cars and both work fine - the NSR car has rear wheels pinion and gear the prorate I just bough the pinion and gear

cheers
DM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
263 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice options I have.
I've never really modified my cars so I'm looking forward to making this not only good again, but better.
I'll research all three options and decide.
Thanks.
 

·
Slot Car Racer and Builder
Joined
·
1,845 Posts
Hey Turismo as you are in Adelaide do you know Thunderbird slot shop - Chris will look after you.

I been tuning an M3 for a race series we have coming up - I braced and glued the motor and it is running nicely
It is this one.


Can post pics of what I have done to it if you want - if you are running on board without magnet the Ninco cars seem to run better if you brace the rear end.

cheers
DM
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
405 Posts
I've upgraded the Ninco Ford GT (standard blue one) with the Slot.it SIKK09 axle kit over the weekend and even though the car is quieter than before with the standard plastic gears, it's nowhere near what I was hoping for.


Gear mesh seems fine, however it becomes quite noisy and gives out a screeching sound when run on track. I'll experiment a bit more with it - changing the motor for a Slot.it boxer instead of the NC-5, Prorace chassis with pod or maybe smaller diameter pinion/gear. Any recommendations?
 

·
Peter Christie
Joined
·
1,835 Posts
oil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
QUOTE (strongbow @ 30 Jan 2012, 22:11) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I've upgraded the Ninco Ford GT (standard blue one) with the Slot.it SIKK09 axle kit over the weekend and even though the car is quieter than before with the standard plastic gears, it's nowhere near what I was hoping for.


Gear mesh seems fine, however it becomes quite noisy and gives out a screeching sound when run on track. I'll experiment a bit more with it - changing the motor for a Slot.it boxer instead of the NC-5, Prorace chassis with pod or maybe smaller diameter pinion/gear. Any recommendations?

Did you change the motor pinion, if not that could be your problem. Ninco use a conical pinion which I find difficult to get a good mesh. Slot.it brass pinions are cheap so give that a try. To fine tune the mesh I use NSR brass axle spacers between the crown and the bearing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,688 Posts
Ninco cars are sometimes puzzling machines. I have had smooth and silent standard out of the box AW Ninco's, and rattling noisy ones. Visually they looked perfectly the same.
On close inspection, i found out that often much of the noise originated from the plastic pinion engaging the plastic anglewinder spur gear.
There's lots of variables: the conic pinion can sit too far out, resulting in a tight mesh; the pinion can sit too far in, resulting in a sloppy mesh.
What i always tried first is to set the pinion at a different position on the motor axle. Sometimes this solved the mesh problem instantly.

Even worse, the mesh can change dramatically when the chassis is under strain. So when the car is open in front of you, everything looks and runs fine. When on the track, it's rattling.
There's often too much movement possible in the chassis - check how easy you can bend the rear end of the chassis with a finger, and see how the gears release and lock again. Sometimes there's no free play on one side, and lots of free play on the other side of the car.
The solution i tried is fixing this free play by reinforcing the rear end with some plastic card, hot glued in place, in order to set the pinion and spur gear in a fixed position.
This made some of my Ninco cars considerably smoother and better running.

For some cars, i chose the slot.it AW kit solution. But i found it a sport as well, to try and make the standard plastic gears run smooth and silent.
And yes, when there's a split pinion you can have the gear lock up at a certain point when rotating - and split pinions are harder to diagnose than i realised. It took one to know one.

Succes,

Merc
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
405 Posts
Thanks for the advice. I had the Slot.it pinion from the SIKK09 kit installed as well, but as Merc says, it has probably something to do with the chassis. When I lift the rear off the track and spin the wheels, the gears sound more or less ok, they only get noisy when run on track. I'll try reinforcing the chassis or swapping it for the Prorace chassis/pod.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,646 Posts
if you read all the posts carefully, its all been said. the first thing was to brace your chassis, the second thing was to move the pinion up or down the motor shaft to obtain perfect mesh, if the pinion was split change it for a brass-steel straight one and space the gear for perfect mesh. if you,d have done it that way it might have cost nothing! or at most the price of a new pinion. john.
 

·
Slot Car Racer and Builder
Joined
·
1,845 Posts
Turismo

Here is the Beamer - I decided to do something a little different to what I have with other cars. The bracing is a piece of aluminium cut into a strips and bent to suit. I put a drop of super glue on the bushing and put the alu strip on the bushing and then glued it to the motor. A dab of hot glue on the bushing and motor holds it all in. I also glued the motor to the chassis. It seems to work fine. A little bit of weight near the front and some spaces to take the up and down slop out of the front wheels. I am happy with how the car runs - it is smooth doesn't hop and hums rather than rattles and roars




This is a Ninco NSX chassis - I added a flat piece of aluminium behind the motor and glues the motor in. You may not notice it but I also glued some plastic card between the bushing mounts and the motor. The gear on this one is a Pro Race - it is smooth quiet and quick.


I have also used plastic card to brace the rear end and in a couple of cars just glued the motor in. The NSX is the quickest and the one I race the others I only drive for fun.

My track is a gloss painted (rubbered up) mdf board track 14.5m lane length.

The motor mount in the BMW seems a little better than on other Ninco cars. Alsothe NC-2 doesn't have as much torque to twist the chassis as the NC-5 or NC-14.

cheers
David
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,378 Posts
Get the Ninco red anglewinder replacement gears, as they are 12/32 and will give much better performance then the 11/33 black gears that the M3 comes with. Just glue the motor to the chassis and she shouldn't hop.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
251 Posts
You have all pretty much covered all the options stoner being the most concise and in the correct order.
Only one thing I would add - do not waste your time using hot glue to fix a motor in place - think about it for a minute, what happens to hot glue when it gets hot , doh
When fixing motors in place use high viscosity Super glue or for extreme conditions (endurance racing for example) consider 2 part epoxy glues and also REMOVE the motor label otherwise whatever you use will only be as strong as the adhesive on the label!
Cheers
brembo

http://www.edsrc.co.uk/content/home.html
 

·
Slot Car Racer and Builder
Joined
·
1,845 Posts
Camber

yeah Plafit 12T - the kit I bought was a 33/11 I think. I wanted to try changing the ratio -I had a spare 12t plafit - it has meshed well - though I have a MB Slot 12t brass to put on it now if I want

Brembo

think about it for a minute, what happens to hot glue when it gets hot , doh


Well I have never had a problem with the hot glue melting in my cars - and I find if you need to remove the glue for any reason - e.g. changing a pinion it is easy with hot glue. I have no idea how hot a motor gets - but I think the hot glue melts at around 200 degrees C - so I guess if my motor gets that hot a few other things will start melting as well.

I know some folks remove the label on the motor - but then in some race clubs you need to leave the label on to verify the motor you are using.

cheers
DM
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top