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Premium Member
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2,932 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This has already had a small mention in my retirements build thread but anyway.

At the end of August I bought three Arii model kits from their Owners Club range, a Porsche 911S, Honda S600 and ...

Tire Ice racing Vehicle Car Wheel

The intention being to build a car from racing in my clubs scratchbuilt saloons class. The kit it's self is quite basic, much like the original Airfix saloon car kits, and is based on the road going car with a addition of a rear spoiler, a pair of flared front wheel arches and a different front with the oil cooler. Other than the front moulding the rest of the body is a one piece moulding.

The basic body was soon built up with the front glued in and are wheel arch flares added, I decided not to fit the rear wing at this stage as I thought it would make painting easier. A few coats of primer later..

Land vehicle Wheel Car Vehicle Toy


After a quick look on line I decided to stick with the enclosed decals and so painted the body white, I used Zero paints Racing White or Ivory which is the same as Tamiya TS7 and the colour used by Honda for the F1 cars in the 60's.

Wheel Vehicle Tire Hood Car


A couple of coats of gloss clearcoat and it was time to apply the decals. With the help of some Micro Sol and Micro St they all went on fine apart from the roof decals, my fault , a bit to much decal treatment and a finger nail. Then, when the weather improved a dust coat and two wet coats of Zero paints gloss clearcoat.

I was going to use a vac formed interior but I don't have any that are long enough so I glued the dash panel in place and cut the rear parcel shelf from the interior moulding and glued that in place and then used a smaller vac formed interior glued between them. You can also see the little decal nick ...

Car Vehicle White Hood Blue


The only detail painting I have done is the front grill and oil cool.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Hood Automotive lighting


and the rear lights with Tamiya transparent red

Automotive lighting Hood Blue Vehicle Toy


Not gluing the rear spiller in place before painting may have been a mistake as there is not attachment point for in on the body so when I get around to it I think I will have to look a drilling the spoiler and body and use some small pins or first off and it will be off.

Next the chassis build
 

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ParrotGod
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9,313 Posts
Also here on a windows laptop and chrome the pics are not visible. I noticed that pics have disappeared (broken link icon) from some posts that were visible yesterday.
 

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Jim Moyes
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5,069 Posts
Pics fine for me. Nice work.

Also got this kit in the to-do pile.
 

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Premium Member
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2,932 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The club rules specify either a PCS, RS Slot Racing or Penelope Pitlane chassis, a short can motor up to 25K or the 26K MRRC motor , there are also minimum diameter and maximum width tyre limits and a minimum ground clearance.

I went for a PP chassis and for the motor I had little choice as I don't have any 25k but do have a 26K MRRC. Gears are slot.it 28t crown with 9t pinion. The guide is from the spares box, as are the axles, and braid is slot.it. I had intended to use a pair of Pendle's alloy Scalextric small saloon car replacement wheels at the rear which come with F22 tyres. Although these looked ok they did not give the required 1mm clearance so I had to see what wheels I had. In the end I have used a full set of MRRC alloy wheels taken from a MRRC Clubman Special Ferrari 250 LM/64 kit. Testing with the MRRC tyres showed almost zero grip on the club track so for the moment I've fitted a well used set of F22 tyres. I have found the set of race tyres that came with the MRRC kit and may give them a try at some point.



Not sure how the weight will work, but long to wait till I find out.

I've use my own 3D printed 2 part body post, only used the base part at the rear but both parts at the front so I could adjust the height.



The 2 part post has an interference cap that is pushed over the post, which is cut to be slightly shorter than required, the chassis is then screwed in place and as the screw bites in to the post the cap is pulled down until you have the height required then just add some super glue.

With the slightly wider rear tyres I have had to cut away part of the interior at the rear.

The headlight cover decals have also now been added.


I may at some point paint the rear light surround and the badges on the body. As I said in part one I still need to sort the rear spoiler and I haven't added the wing mirrors but as these stick out past the body I don't think I will bother as I can't see them surviving long.





PS, I've added the photos in this post via the sites gallery, just in case, but I can see all photos added in this and other threads, they were added by cut and paste.
 

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David H
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3,903 Posts
The 2 part post has an interference cap that is pushed over the post, which is cut to be slightly shorter than required, the chassis is then screwed in place and as the screw bites in to the post the cap is pulled down until you have the height required then just add some super glue.
That's a very clever method. Adjusting body posts so that the body sits at the correct height is something I always find fiddly. I shall copy your method!
 

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Registered
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2,021 Posts
The club rules specify either a PCS, RS Slot Racing or Penelope Pitlane chassis, a short can motor up to 25K or the 26K MRRC motor , there are also minimum diameter and maximum width tyre limits and a minimum ground clearance.

I went for a PP chassis and for the motor I had little choice as I don't have any 25k but do have a 26K MRRC. Gears are slot.it 28t crown with 9t pinion. The guide is from the spares box, as are the axles, and braid is slot.it. I had intended to use a pair of Pendle's alloy Scalextric small saloon car replacement wheels at the rear which come with F22 tyres. Although these looked ok they did not give the required 1mm clearance so I had to see what wheels I had. In the end I have used a full set of MRRC alloy wheels taken from a MRRC Clubman Special Ferrari 250 LM/64 kit. Testing with the MRRC tyres showed almost zero grip on the club track so for the moment I've fitted a well used set of F22 tyres. I have found the set of race tyres that came with the MRRC kit and may give them a try at some point.



Not sure how the weight will work, but long to wait till I find out.

I've use my own 3D printed 2 part body post, only used the base part at the rear but both parts at the front so I could adjust the height.



The 2 part post has an interference cap that is pushed over the post, which is cut to be slightly shorter than required, the chassis is then screwed in place and as the screw bites in to the post the cap is pulled down until you have the height required then just add some super glue.

With the slightly wider rear tyres I have had to cut away part of the interior at the rear.

The headlight cover decals have also now been added.


I may at some point paint the rear light surround and the badges on the body. As I said in part one I still need to sort the rear spoiler and I haven't added the wing mirrors but as these stick out past the body I don't think I will bother as I can't see them surviving long.





PS, I've added the photos in this post via the sites gallery, just in case, but I can see all photos added in this and other threads, they were added by cut and paste.
Nice work you did there, would be nice a pic with its modern brothers from Slot it, the R32 and the R34😀

Cheers
 

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Kevs Racing Bits
Joined
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3,233 Posts
Arii Hakosuka was the first kit I bought from them, 54mm wide without the add on arches fitted perfectly in our club rules.
I also got a Honda 600...yeah it's tiny!
 

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Electric model car driver
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1,505 Posts
Just found one of these Nissans in the 'to do' pile to go on a shortened and slightly narrowed Pioneer T/A chassis and it'll be a great car for our saloon class.
 
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