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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This could have been posted in Grumpy Old Gits....but anyway.

Anyone who has bought NSR has also seen this little statement that comes with their cars - "NSR certifies that the model has been finished manually and as such there may be imperfections which are not defects but rather witness of the handmade work. "

However, should this excuse a car that, upon opening the box from new, has rear wheels that do not turn because one wheel (tyre) doesn't even clear the body ?

For a slot car that is at the premium end of the pricing, I'd have thought not. It's going to take some amount of work on my behalf with a scalpel on the body, and/or taking a whack off the outside of the tyre to get this thing to even run around a track.

Anyone else had similar issues ?
 

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ParrotGod
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I am not a big fan of NSR, but I think you do not need to take the scalpel or doing any mods.
First of all, you have to true the tyres which will reduce a bit their diameter.
Then you can check if you can move the wheel a bit more inside the body.
Finally, you can use two grub screws to lift the body: there are two hole on the back of the chassis one on each side of the rear diffuser and two on the front on each side of the splitter.

In any case, there is always some amount of work that needs to be done to run any car. More so with the high premium ones.
 
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Alan Wilkinson
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Unlike Gio, I AM a big fan of NSR.
However,
NSR proudly boats that their cars are not just "Ready to run" but "Ready to race"
Some recent examples I've seen fall well below expectations.
The cars are all manufactured and assembled in NSR's factory in Salerno, so no "made in China" excuses are possible.
Andrea and the crew should urgently review their quality control I think.
AlanW
 

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I have NEVER had a new slot car i can honestly say i get out of the box and it goes like it should , there is always without exception something to do to it , now like Kevan i strip ALL my new slot cars and remidy what needs doing then i consider the car is ready to run, and that covers cars from Thunderslot to Scaley.
In my time i've had the lot from warped body's/ chassis to bent wheels and much more inbetween.
 

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ParrotGod
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NSR proudly boats that their cars are not just "Ready to run" but "Ready to race"
I think this can be interpreted as all the parts in the car are good for racing, you do not need to change much if those parts are legal for a competition.
But there is still work that needs to be done to make the most of them.
For instance, at a bare minimum, you will need to take the body off and inserts the grub screws to adjust the front axle height.
 

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Kevs Racing Bits
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I think this can be interpreted as all the parts in the car are good for racing, you do not need to change much if those parts are legal for a competition.
But there is still work that needs to be done to make the most of them.
For instance, at a bare minimum, you will need to take the body off and inserts the grub screws to adjust the front axle height.
and glue/true the tyres
and set pod float
and set body float
and lubricate the bearings and motor
and run the motor in

...but apart from that :unsure:
 
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David H
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... upon opening the box from new, has rear wheels that do not turn because one wheel (tyre) doesn't even clear the body ?
------
It's going to take some amount of work on my behalf with a scalpel on the body, and/or taking a whack off the outside of the tyre to get this thing to even run around a track.
I'm surprised to read of this problem. The NSR Merc has rear wheels that aren't shrouded by bodywork, so in theory you should be able to position them so that they protrude beyond the width of the body. Could it be that one of the axle bearings has popped out of its mounting and is causing the rear wheel to sit too high? Alternatively, is the motor pod screwed so loosely to the chassis that it's caused the whole pod/motor/axle/wheel assembly to sit too high?

This is a brand new NSR AMG Mercedes that I've just taken out of its box for the purpose of this photo. It illustrates that there should be ample room for the tyre with no need to modify anything. It also illustrates just how badly moulded some of NSR's tyres are...
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ParrotGod
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and glue/true the tyres
and set pod float
and set body float
and lubricate the bearings and motor
and run the motor in

...but apart from that :unsure:
Yeah, I know but in some place they race without gluing and trueing the tyres and some think that you can run in the motor while practicing with the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey all, thanks for all the input, yes, as it turns out Dopamine, you were on the right track.....out of the box the pod screws were a little loose, certainly not THAT loose though, and I thought the point of pods was to allow them to run a little loose. Anyway, tightening the pod screws firmly did allow the tyre to clear the body....just. I'm going to have to see what happens after a little tyre truing & I may be forced to run the chassis a little loose instead of the pod.

It is interesting though that the wheel & tyre on the gear side clears the body nicely (just inside thew wheel arch) & I'd love to just move the other wheel ever so slightly inwards, but this is prevented by the brass spacer tube on that side which is there to prevent side movement in the axle. Catch 22.

Thanks again !
 

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It is interesting though that the wheel & tyre on the gear side clears the body nicely (just inside thew wheel arch) & I'd love to just move the other wheel ever so slightly inwards, but this is prevented by the brass spacer tube on that side which is there to prevent side movement in the axle. Catch 22.

Thanks again !
Then why not replace the longer spacer tube with a narrower one ??.........while you are at it, it is always advisable to use 2 spacers, as they will act as thrust washers, which reduce friction

Cheers
Chris Walker
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Then why not replace the longer spacer tube with a narrower one ??.........while you are at it, it is always advisable to use 2 spacers, as they will act as thrust washers, which reduce friction

Cheers
Chris Walker
That would be ideal....unfortunately I haven't been doing this long enough to build up an extensive spare parts collection !........
slowly getting there but I've been getting things on an needs basis .....some of the blokes I race with have been doing this since the 60s.......me....a little over 2 years. I'm a little behind the 8 ball :)
 

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That would be ideal....unfortunately I haven't been doing this long enough to build up an extensive spare parts collection !........
slowly getting there but I've been getting things on an needs basis .....some of the blokes I race with have been doing this since the 60s.......me....a little over 2 years. I'm a little behind the 8 ball :)
Put spacers on the top of your list !!!,.....they are inexpensive, and should be used on both ends of every rear axle on every one of your cars.......while they are called spacers, their real forte is in reducing friction, when placed between a stationary (a bushing flange) and a rotating (wheel hub or gear boss) surface. And always use 2 thin ones instead of one thicker one.

Cheers
Chris Walker

PS a selection of .005 thou, .010 thou. and .025 thou will be most often used in sidewinder/anglewinder configurations.
 

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David H
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PS a selection of .005 thou, .010 thou. and .025 thou will be most often used in sidewinder/anglewinder configurations.
As Chris suggests, buy a selection of spacers, but include in it spacers that are significantly longer than .025 thou (0.0006mm)!!

NSR's anglewinder AMG Merc, for example, uses a 4mm spacer as standard on the non-gear side. Buying spacers is more expense, but a relatively small one which will make life very much simpler when setting your cars up. One packet of each of the sizes NSR produce would be a good start.
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Kevs Racing Bits
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I always use a brass tube spacer and 0.5mm washer. Spacers cut and ground to length, 8BA washers washers are 0.5mm thick.
 
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