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NSR and their Corvette C6r hardly need an introduction, together with the 997 they've formed the backbone for many GT club racing series all over the world.
Renowned as they may be for being "performance cars", one rarely sees an NSR on the track that's being subject to some detailing TLC.
Maybe its because NSR's policy to produce uni colored "test" versions and white kits before releasing "liveried cars. By the time the "stunners" become available every body already bought and prepared their "runner".

Which is a shame as, I have recently found out, the C6R is actually a very true to scale slotcar, that with a bit of TLC, can be turned into a just as stunning as fast runnig scale(d) replica.
With the recent releases of the Vantage and the Z4 getting most of the slotracers attention...
..and me having an old white kit laying around......time to return this golden oldy back into the Limelight.

The basics of "How to Relivery a Slot car" have already been covered extensively by Richard's excellent tutorial in the scratch build forum.
Here I'll try to highlight only the parts where I've used a different technique and or different materials.

Reference pictures: Get to know your subject

First step for every project is ...to pick a subject. In this case I chose the #50 car as raced by the french Larbre team in 2013, and as I'm a Le Mans fan the version as it raced during the famous "24 heures".
The second step is to gather reference pictures from every possible angle. I've posted just two of them here, but usually the folder I create for a project will contain dozens of images.
If like for this project I also need to draw all the logo's for the decals set it can be more than hundred images.
With the growing bandwidth of the www this job has become so much easier, with time you learn variate your search descriptions and even search languages to get that image of that elusive angle, detail or logo.
Sources can be anything from the obvious automotive sites to annual PDF reports by a sponsor's company.
Sometimes you find high resolution images of your subject on Flicker, sometimes these images are blocked from downloading, with a small app like screen capture the resolution will be good enough for you to use as a reference.
Anyhow...even if you use a commercial decal set with a proper decal plan, reference pictures will help you to get to know your subject.
And that's important because you need that to determine what it is that "sets off" your car, what makes your car tick.
The best approach to get a good result is not to try to make a 100% scale replica, but to focus on creating a scaled down "impression" of your subject.



Creating templates, trying to flatten a banana
To make the decal sheet for this C6R the logo's and straight lined striping needed to folow the curvatures of the body panels.
In other words, I needed to draw straight lines for on a curved surface.
Doing a couple of templates of those body panels is a very helpfull step in converting a 3d object into 2d surfaces.
Actually this applies for all cars, even those with more angular edges like the GR5 M1.
There's always that slight compound curve that's hardly noticable, but enough to make them not fit or worse brake up as you place them on the car.
Savage experienced this with the Apple decals he made for one of his 935

To create these templates I use Tesa "pink" precision masking tape. Its 50mm wide which is enough to cover most 1/32nd bodypanels.
Its also thin, strong and has a bit of flex, most important it has a nice clean edge when you cut it.
Still a sharp knife is a neccesity, can be a triangular X acto hobby knive, but I prefer to use a #11 scalpel.
Chance blades frequently, you'll be amazed how fast a blade blunts by just cutting "paper" tape.
Apply the tape in sections, I usually treat the body panels one by one and cut them along the recessed panel lines.
The good news is you only need to do half of the car, but make sure that you mark the correct centerline first.
As you can see I drew a kind of mesh over the taped up body, this "mesh" helps to line up the different body templates after you've peeled them of the car.



Drawing the Templates and Logo's for decals: Vectors or pixels, working with layers
Next step is to stick all the templates that you've cut on a piece of paper and scan them @ 300dpi or more.
To work on this scan you need a software program that allows you to at least reposition and resize images.
Best is to use software that allows you to create separate layers. (as you will be placing images on top of images)
Due to my line of work I work on a Mac with professional Adobe software like Photoshop and Illustrator, but there are free software packages for windows like Paint.NET (pixels) and Inkscape(vectors)
They may not have all the gismo's and filters of the proffesional suites, but with a bit of imagination and some trail and error you'll be able to get good results. Even with a simple program like Word.

So now you've got your scanned templates. If you're doing a simple decalsheet, you can use pixel based programs and work directly in the scanned document.
Simply lock the background layer and create a new layer to paste and resize your logo's in.
If your decalsheet is more complicated it is best to use a vector based program and convert your template scan to a vector illustration.

The 3 images I've posted above show the main steps from scanned template to full decal drawings.
For the main templates you only need to draw half of the car and then copy it and flip it to get the mirrored image for the other half.
That centerline I mentioned before, well here's where that pay's off, or where you pay the penalty for any inaccuracies.
But nothing that can't be corrected. This template and decal drawing bussiness, its a lot of trail and error.

The good news is...you wont have to do all this template work..at least not for the NSR Corvette C6R, as I've already done that for you and have attached them as a PDF file to this post.

Advanced Graphics: Adobe Illustrator and Correl draw, using Arc, Warp and Auto trace filters
For those of you that work with vector programs, check your filters/plug-in tab for Arc, Warp and Autotrace tools.
Auto trace is a plug in that does exactly what the name suggests, it will trace the outlines of an image for you and convert it into vectors.
I used it to trace the running horse in the demeco logo. The Arc and warp filters a great tools if you need to make an image or logo fit a specific body curvature.
Like for instance the Motul and Club de Cologne logo's on the roof or the Michelin logo I used for the tyre decals.
The good thing about these fiulters is that they do not modify the vector drawing itself, they just alter the display and print function of the items you've applied the filter to.
The downside of these filters is that their application is linked to the horizontal and vertical orientation of the item its been applied to.
So if you copy the logo with an applied filter to an other document (like the one where you collect all the logo's to print your decals) keep them oriented in the same horizontal en vertical way.


Testing testing testing
During the drawing process I usually make a couple of test prints to check the fit and sizes and placement of the logo's on the actual car
The templates are a good guideline, but you'll always find these small discrepancies when you compare them to the reference pictures.
For the C6R I went trough about 3 or 4 of test draw, print, redraw cycles, pictured below is during stage 3.
The panel fittings are good, but the black warping around the rear fender/ bumper area did not align correctly.
Its in these stages that you try to figure out which parts of the logo's and striping can be combined as one decal and which parts need to be seperate items.

The stuff I use to do my test prints are A4 sized paper stickers from Avery Labels
It says on the site that they're for Inkjet printers but you can use them for Laserprinters as well. I usually print several sets on one A4 sheet
The glue they use is just strong enough to wrap the prints around curved body panels and you can even reposition them a few times.
But as theyre more difficult to reposition than the decals, some times a few times is not enough. So you start over and cut a new sticker form the sheet.
The trick in cutting is to apply just enough pressure to cut trough the sticker but not the backing paper.
With the tip of the blade you can then peel them off and (re)apply them on the car.
To position the paper stickers I usually start in one corner where I'm sure it has to align with, and then gently let the sticker drop on the car by its own weight.
If its position is good I'll rub the sticker down more firmly, starting from the middle working towards the edges.
If you get a few wrinkles while wrapping the sticker around curves or edged that's ok because the paper is much stiffer than the actual decal film you'll be printing on.
But if you need to apply too much force to stretch the paper around curves or edges you may considering splitting the decal up in more pieces.
Decalfilm is much weaker than paper.
And normally you don't have to go as far as I did here with a full body wrap. you just print and cut the parts that will be decalled later on.
I just wanted to know if a full wrap was possible... which as you can see...it was




to be continued


Masks, paint and decals, inventarise what needs to be done.


 

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Hello Jay, Pete, Colin
SItting in the garden with the laptop, doing a bit of male multitasking this afternoon.
Trying to keep one eye on the telly (Max Verstappen @ F1 GP silverstone) and the other on the street across my house where the Tour de France will be passing by this afternoon. Its a real circus out there.

This thread is meant to be an addition to Richard's excellent tutorial "How to Relivery a Slot car." in the scratch build forum.
And although it does help to have a graphic background (racecars basically are very fast moving billboards
) you can accomplish very good reults with just a good eye for detail, a steady hand and a good bit of determination. But you guys already know that.

I'll try to include some of my experiences for the more "graphically" advanced members (creating vector drawings and color managment for decals)
as well as for those who just want to add a bit of realism to their RTR cars (basic detailing with simple tools like markers, tape and a bit of paint)

@ Jay: if clothes make the man, wheels make the car
First thing I always do when I start a project is make a set of wheels
If you like the wheels on the pictures I've posted so far...you are definitely going to like this thread. This was just a starter with a bit of paint applied and some dots done with a white marker.

@ Colin: Yep, that's the good eye for detail I was referring to

I actually am using this build as a final test for the decal sheet we talked about, when done the files will be send to you.
But it did mean I had to be quite precise in masking some of the areas. With decals that have the white printed you won't need to be that precise, and if the white is really opaque, you'll hardly need any masking at all.

Ok the Sliverstone grid is lining up now....gotta go

with kind regards
Tamar
 

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So Verstappen was out within the first few laps and the Tour de France guys rushed by in 30 seconds

So I've had time to add some text to the post.

I will keep updating the O.P. with new texts and images and will post when there has been a major update.
I've just attached the body templates as a PDF file for those who want to use them to paint, mask or make decals for their C6R.

If you guys got questions... I will also answer them in a new post.

with kind regards
Tamar

p.s. @ Jay: Have to finish a lot off text before I get to the wheel detailing stuff, but here's a teaser image to keep you happy
 

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QUOTE (jay-bl @ 8 Jul 2015, 19:32) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>- oh, to have your super-special mod-powers and be able to edit an OP!


What can I say.....One of my all time favorite cars..

.....carefull what you wish for.....


As for the rest, thanks for the compliment, that's why I post..in the hope to inspire.
Now you hurry of to that little news bombshell post you dropped today...people are asking questions...only you can answer


with kind regards
Tamar
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Finished the clear coat and added some details to the C6R last night, alsmost finished.
So when the sun popped through the clouds today took some quick shots.

Hope you enjoy watching them as much as I do


Will be adding text and more images to the OP over the next couple of days.

with kind regards
Tamar







 

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Gents, glad you like the car.
This was the first car I've build without having the stress of an upcoming race in years&#8230; I must say I enjoyed this build very much.

As promised I'll give some extra attention to the wheels detailing in my O.P. Mind you its very basic, common available stuff with a bit of paint.
For instance the inserts for the NSR Vette came from Slot.it, actually they are not the correct inserts.
I should have used the Carrera wheels like found onder the 458, AV vantage and DTM's or the Scaleauto BMW Z'4's but they were all to big.....work in process

And Rick, for those tyre decals, got Goodyears, Dunlops, Pirelli's and Hankook's
I'll be sending the files to Colin, you know how to find him.
These will fit most contemporary GT and LMP cars with 17 wheels , that is if you run your slotcars with decent sized fronts and rear tyres


If there is interest in them I could do some classic tyre wall lettering for 15& 16mmø.

As for the "state of the art" technologies, well maybe for the graphic work and the software, but most of it is very much "kitchen table" technology....some of it literally.

For instance Gio, those antenna's you asked about. You've probably got a couple of hundreds of them in somewhere in your kitchen cabinet.
They're black hairs I nicked from a dishwashing brush ( the missus doesn't even notice they're missing)
They're very flexible, I secure them on the inside of the body with just the tiniest dab of shoe goo.
And should they happen to come off...there's plenty left to replace them where they came from.



The thing is, I accuired my skills in a period when there was hardly any aftermarket stuff on the market for 1/32nd scale available, so I learned to make stuff with what I had laying around.
Back then having a BW laser printer was about as much "state of the art" as having a 3D printer is now...so who knows, what we'll be posting in ten- twenty years

with kind regards
Tamar
 

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Hello Gio

Your Scaley C6R is exactly the same car/chassis as my NSR, but has the livery as raced in 2011 (as opposed to mine which represents the 2013 car)

They used this theme for 3 years, here's their 2012 entry.


The Scalex is one of the nicest liveries out there so when you do go in and add the antenna's...here's a small tip that will prevent you from scratching the roof by mistake.
Put a piece of masking tape over the area you need to drill the hole in and mark the spot. Its not the first time that a drill bit slides away and leaves a big scratch on your clearcoat.
This piece of tape prevents that.


Hello Andy
Well 2 dimensions is a start, and will work for most decal jobs. And no I can't print white, that is reserved for those who have more professional printers at their disposal.
However, depending up on the livery and the base color of the car.. you can get pretty good results with transparent decal sheets (like I've used for some on this Corvette)
Or use white decal sheets and add a background color that is matching your base car color (like I did for some of the smaller logo's in the C6R)
I'll cover that part in more detail in the updates of my O.P.



with kind regards
Tamar
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Sorry, got a bit distracted this weekend with (koenigs)egg on my face

No time left to furher update my O.P.

Model airplanes...yeah Gio that goes way back,

The C6R body is really nice and true to scale, but the cockpit detail is.. what shall I say..basic and with at least one major flaw.
The dashboard, steeringwheel and driver position should have been at least 10mm more to the rear. Too much work to correct that for this build.
On the positive side, Nice helmet, good positioned arms and the hands do hold the wheel quite nicely.

So even if you don't see that much of the interior once the car is complete, I did some minor detailing there regardless.
Same principles as for the rest of the build, some paint, some tape and some decals...just the basics.

As I said to Jay for his wheel fetish...patience..it will be covered.
So here's your teaser




with kind regards
Tamar
 

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QUOTE (GRUNZ @ 13 Jul 2015, 02:59) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Does the C6R have a classic gear stick instead of paddles on the steering wheel?
Depends on what year and to which rules your car needs to abide. At the start of the new GTE rules in 2010, paddle shifts were not allowed. So early GTE's still had a gearlever.
By the time "our" vettes (2011 & 2013) hit the tracks paddleshifts were allowed.

QUOTE (jay-bl @ 13 Jul 2015, 09:19) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks to NSR, it seems the C6R has something more closely resembling a Lava Lamp than a gear stick...

...just kidding, of course. Love the work you've done to the interior, Tamar - TBH, that's something I habitually overlook as both my GT3 entries (997 and backup R8) are allowed to run with the lightweight lexan cockpit trays, but you've really brought your model to life with the details you've added.
Make that thanks to Dutch NSR GT3 rules that state "complete stock interior" Its possible that the Vette will run during the Suzuka 2000, if so I will make an correct Vacformed interior..without the Lava Lamp

Lightweight and vacform usually means shapeless blobs that barely comply with the rules...but they can be made just as nice as full sized plastic interiors.

QUOTE (GRUNZ @ 13 Jul 2015, 06:44) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The more I look the more I want to know: you made the openings in the driver and passenger windows as well...that is not easy job. Any details on how you made them (in due time)?
QUOTE (jay-bl @ 13 Jul 2015, 09:19) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Also, I'd spotted those ducts and openings on the side windows, too - I'd say they look as if they were done at the factory, but that wouldn't really be quite the compliment it's intended to be.

Ok, ok, its my lunchbreak
, here are some more pictures, explaining texts will follow later


with kind regards
Tamar





 

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Yep enjoying the mediteranian sun, but contrary to previous experiences, now with pretty good wifi on location.
Just watched the Hungarian grand prix online
What a race....


Been trying to sit down and update but stuff just kept getting in the way.
But dont worry, got plenty to write, and some days left to do it.

with kind regards
Tamar
 

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QUOTE (LMP @ 3 Aug 2015, 11:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Did I miss the wheel tutorial?

No you did not Gary, it is on the now growing list of things to finish, but...I might also turn that into a seperate topic.

QUOTE (valie @ 4 Aug 2015, 08:36) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hey Tamar, great job there! Looking at the effort and time you put in, my feeble effort with the Ferrari dims into obscurity. You inspire me to do more next time.
Gert you're doing fine, I see improvements with every car you've posted here. And thank you, having been able to offer some inspiration...well that's the best compliment one can get .

@ Colin: No need for hope, we will work together to make this a proper decal set. But resently accquired responsibilities have taken some time away from finishing this project.

with kind regards
Tamar
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
A small update.
Posted some pics of my chassis with an O2 chip as a reply in an other topic.
Gio spotted the tall grubscrews on my chassis and wanted to know why and how.

They're a bit of a joke actually, started when I looked at this picture of the works C6r up on its airjacks in the Le Mans Pits...and thought...
Now would it not be nice if I had those on my 1/32nd Vette to keep the wheels out of the dust whenever she's in the pits.
I've always hated looking at slotcars laying on their sides, or worse resting on their guide and the rear stuffed up with whatever the racer had lying around.


So I looked into my nuts and bolts case and saw I had some of these really long grubscrews....took a drill and 5 minutes later...voila!


The fun thing about them is that when I need to run her on the track I just turn the grubscrews completely up till they're almost flush with the chassis.
I just love it when you can make scale details functional


with kind regards
Tamar
 

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QUOTE (Profoxcg @ 6 Aug 2015, 02:11) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>What color is that yellow you used?
I would love to get an ALPS printer, too bad they no longer make them.
That would be Tamiya TS 16 Yellow, decanted and sprayed with an airbrush. Its actually a bit to dark for a true GM yellow, but it is what I had laying around at the time.
Zero paints do have a proper GM corvette Yellow, might use that the next time.
As for the ALPS, yes they were great printers, but you can get very similar results with modern printers as well.

QUOTE (McCrash @ 6 Aug 2015, 02:12) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Neat little feature! Functional and adds to the detail!. superb build! On another planet compared to my meer mortal abilities! Lol
Mark as with all things, its 99% transpiration and 1% Talent/ Inspiration, and if you're sweating...you're mortal


QUOTE (GRUNZ @ 6 Aug 2015, 03:31) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Tamar
You are officially in my list of Detail-Freaks ;-)
So, how did it perform? I heard that in the GT3 class the 'vette is the weapon of choice. But also the AVS and the new Z4 should not be bad.
I have got one that I would like to set up but for the track where I race the optimal gear ratio is something between 3.2 and 3.6.
But I believe that with the AW config is not possible to get above 2.8 (using a 12 pinion and 34 crown).
I think I will config my vette with a SW pod using a 25K short-can motor.
Holliday season means club comp is on hold, ran it before I left on vacation and although it was more or less on the pace with the other NSR's noticed I had a bit less grip and power than the previous test run.
Came home and checked the car only to notice that I had not cut the stubs of the fuel filler caps, which had neatly grinded two big grooves in both my rear wheels....so much for the "expert"

Weapon of choice always seems to be related to the latest weapon, slotracers will always think that new is better


Its a bit late for me now to do mind math, but is a 3.2 gearing on a high revving 25k short can not very similar to a 2.8 gearing for a lwo revving but more torque 21k Baby King?

QUOTE (LMP @ 6 Aug 2015, 08:47) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Now I'm waiting for the air-powered hex driver to appear in the pitbox, for rapid deployment of grub-jacks

Gary if I had air power in the pitbox, I would be able to make proper air jacks now would'nt I


QUOTE (jay-bl @ 6 Aug 2015, 08:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Tamar, you are the devil with the details! Bet you even make the little "Vvvvt!" noises as you wind those in and out, don't you?

No Jay, I dont make noises, I dont need to...as when I see a good looking slotcar..it automatically takes me back to where I saw that car running in the wild.
The sounds, smell, the reverberance of the V8 in your body..its all there.
Maybe that's why I've always been compelled to build my cars like...well...how I build my cars


with kind regards
Tamar
 
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