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Hi all,

Got my first NSR which is a Mosler kit (1010W) anglewinder & I was amazed to see it not run properly first time
- maybe it's designed for perfectly flat routed tracks. I'm assuming I've assembled it correctly as there were no instructions.

Anyway, I've taken the magnet out and superglued the tyres to stop the tyre slip, which has worked for the moment - never had to do this for any other car.
Worse though is the motor scraping the track (Scaley Sport). I've put some old axle wheel spacers as washers on the motor pod screws to raise the pod a bit which seems to work - is this the best solution?
Also, the motor rotates a fraction - should I glue it in & if so should I glue it in, in place, or take it out & glue the contact points first?

Maybe I'm being a Philistine on this forum but I'm not worried about the trimming the extra tenths of a second - but I just want a car that works, and just to have fun zipping round the track and not serious club racing. As an aside just got my first Slot it & it runs like dream out of the box and it was a lot cheaper!

Cheers
Chris
 

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Johnny Fuglestad
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1 chek that the motorpod is not broken.( if broken the motor will seem loose)
2 half a turn loose on the 3 screws for the pod
3 screws for body loose.

the mosler should outrun anything IMHO on scaly sport.
 

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NSR makes spacers for the guide to address this situation.
NSR 4819 - GUIDE SPACERS 0.25 MM
NSR 4818 - GUIDE SPACERS 0.12 MM
 

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As stated fitting the guide spacers is the way to go. Spacers on the motor pod will have little effect because the rear axle is also on it! sorry to state the obvious!
The motor should be screwed in at the pinion end AND glued both ends. I also remove the motor label and glue down each side but we do run on wood. Use a cheap low viscosity super glue to start with whilst the motor is in place. You can use a high strength glue later if this cures the problem.
You should also glue the axle bearings in place making sure that they are in alignment first!
We also run with the front screw of the motor pod tight, I am not saying this will be correct for your track/conditions but you should try it.
As a general rule of thumb the more grip the track has the stiffer the chassis/pod will need to be.
I am assuming you trued as well as glued the tyres.
Normally I would say make only one change at a time but in this instance all of the above should be done to ANY car running without a magnet before you can expect good results.
Good luck!
Brembo
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Excellent help, thanks guys. I never thought about guide spacers but that makes sense now.
 

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Greg Gaub
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honestly, that surprises me. I know the Mosler is low, but Sport track has flush rails, so it shouldn't be dragging except where joints are not smooth.
I built by P68 from the kit, but the chassis was already together and running perfectly out of the box. All I had to do was lube the bushings and such. I never had to tweak anything to get good performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think doing flyovers before did deform some rails a little but the motor was catching on several joints - enough to take the paint off the motor after a few laps and make it stop & start all round the track - it was really low!
 

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Dave Capelen
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Hi Chris

You might have the slightly lower more recent chassis, which will nick against any joints that aren't absolutely flat. Also if your tyres are well worn it won't help, as happened to me after 2 years with my Mosler, such that the chassis was catching the joins in the track on our wooden club track. Plus if you are using the lowest profile NSR tyres, that will also reduce the ride height.

My solution was new rear tyres - yours might be to try and flatten the joints out. Mosler motors tend to show a bit of occasional damage from scraping on track, as the chassis is so low in the first place - but it shouldn't be touching the track consistently during a lap.

Cheers
Dave
 

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I've got all sorts of NSR cars running well on Sport track with magnets in place.
As said earlier, you need to space the guide a fraction to gain a bit of clearance, and I also stiffen the chassis by gluing a 50mm or so long bit of Scaley track rail either side of the chassis, as the magnet tends to pull/flex the chassis toward the track making the motor bottom out as in your photo. Works for me.
 

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ok spacers removed from pod screws & spacer put in the guide - track clearance is fine. But ...
It now sounds like a old banger (see start of video below) - if I loosen the pod screws 2 turns the noise more or less disappears - should I leave the pod screws tightened up and run it in to mesh the cogs or do I need to adjust the cogs or just leave the screws loose? Turning the wheels by hand there's a also stiff point on every revolution of the big cog but I can't see any damage.

Also and unrelated, I noticed the motor is pulsing at low revs and without the axle - it's easier to hear at 32 secs on video - what might be causing this? (I'm using the new SSD 6car APB with power max set at 75% & analog mode). I have only just noticed this & I think this is probably what was causing the original start/stop motion more than the the motor catching the track.


 

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QUOTE (chris99 @ 5 Oct 2011, 11:12) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>ok spacers removed from pod screws & spacer put in the guide - track clearance is fine. But ...
It now sounds like a old banger

i had the same issue. mine was that the set screws in the wheel was hitting the the pod when the wheel turned. i marked where it was clipping and then used a dremel to put a small notch in the area where the screw came around to hit the pod. that fixed the issue for me.
 

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Spot on Jeremy, you're a star! - I was too focused on looking for a damaged tooth on the cog or uneven wear and as it hits the pod at the bottom it's hidden by the cog when it touches the pod.

Now there's just the pulsing motor at low revs to solve/explain (which makes the car jerk a bit and more difficult to control at low speeds. It's unrelated to the axle screw as it does it without the axle on. Anyway at least there's no more old banger sounds
 

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Greg Gaub
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The pulsing is a byproduct of how the APB does analog. The pulsing is noticeable at different throttle levels for different motors. It's something to do with the PCM delivered alternately to the two slots, we think. This was something I noticed a while back, and Sean (HankScorpio) and others helped narrow it down. If you put a 9v battery to the braids, it will be smooth like butter.
 

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Yep MrF dead right - I dug out my old analog transformer & it ran smoothly.

I hadn't noticed the APB analog pulsing with other cars but I hadn't paid attention to it, not having had the NSR teething problems with any other cars. Now, with testing them in the same way the pulsing doesn't seem so marked as for the NSR but maybe that' cos the NSR has a more powerful and smoother motor.

So if you buy an an NSR Mosler, unless I was just unlucky, you'll probably have to glue on the tyres, put a spacer in the guide for Scaley track, cut a bit out of the chassis to allow space for the cog screw and not use the SSD APB in analog mode or at least dial down the power.

I think that was my first & last NSR, but there again I had to break open the piggy bank to pay for this one and didn't really have any intention to do so beyond buying one to test. In fact I've found a dealer locally who sells Slot its from home for 36 and 40 euros so that's were the sensible money is going. (Don't get too excited - it's not interesting for overseas mail order, as p&p is 15euros).

Thanks to everyone for all your help on this which has resolved all the issues
 

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This thread sounds familiar to the day I'm having after just receiving delivery of the same model car(Mosler MT900R).

I thought these cars were supposed to be finished manually, that doesn't mean much really, I found my car needing loads of tuning just to get it going full stop.

Magnet sticking to track, so had to replace with a thinner and less powerful gold coloured round magnet from PM.

The front tyres looked all out of shape but this seems to disappear after some running in, but was a concern at first.

The guide needs spacers to raise the front height of the car to stop the chassis scraping on the track.

The wheel inserts are badly inserted and are at wonky angles, they don't sit flush and look poor like this.

The right front mirror came off the car as it is not held in, it just sits in the hole loose.

The nice motor can sticker gets all ripped and scratched up on the track and again looks untidy once it is scratched up.

Front wheels don't spin freely if the front body screw is tighten up fully, so you have leave it loose!, it feels like it will eventually fall out like this.

I had to add axle spacers to the front axle to reduce side to side play, and had to move wheels in as they stuck out beyond the arches.

I added two M2 x 4mm hex head screws with washers to mount the motor to the pod securely to stop any movement.

The axle bushings needed oiling.

The guide often comes completely out when the rear end slides out too far.

For a hand finished car I was pretty disappointed, many things could have been done to make the car better and set up better. It also seemed that you may need to buy a few extra parts to set the car up well, such as screws, spacers, washers, magnet, not sure why they don't supply these considering the price of the car.
To be honest it is no better quality than a Slot.it car, if the car was supplied better tuned with all the necessary parts that you need, I mean just simple things like spacers, screws and washers this would make it seem worth the money.
I guess it is more of a marketing ploy to say that the cars are hand finished, I know that doesn't mean tuned to run on any track out of the box.

Anyway apart from all the moaning I can still see that this could be a great car as it is acclaimed to be and proven to be, it just needs quite a bit of tuning to get it running at its best, so yet more money to spend on an already expensive car. Fortunately I already have a lot of spares like spacers, washers, magnets, screws etc ect, but those that didn't would be not so happy, and it still doesn't mean that I won't be needing to buy parts to finish tuning my car just to get it to run half decently
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Welcome to the club

Since my after sales adjustments, this is one of my best and fastest cars and lovely and smooth to drive. Out of the box, I guess they are built for unjointed completely flat wooden tracks.

Even the pulsing/hopping doesn't seem so bad know but I'm sure my APB ain't right and I'm still waiting for a reply from Scalextric customer service after finally complaining 2 weeks ago after have falsely badgered NSR customer service. NSR's eventual reply had several "it's crazy" in it and offered to send a different motor but I had just got a Scalextric 25k & 30k motors in a kit which exhibited the same pulsing. In fact, NSR & Slot it motors rpms are quoted at 12v and other brands at 15v, so if it's a linear relationship an NSR 21.5k is probably nearer 27k on a 15v APB. Running it at 75% power though is perfect on my small track.
 

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I just replaced all the NSR tyres for Slot.it zero grip fronts and yellow dog 1409 rears, the car runs much better now, as the the tyres I have put on the car give it more track clearance, which works better for my Scalextric track.

Shame I had to change all 4 tyres, as I know they are good tyres but just the wrong size I need.

I think from now on I will just buy the parts I need to make the car up, instead of buying a complete car and having to change half the parts on it.

I will say I like the feel of the motor(King 21), it is very smooth, it is the first time I have tried an NSR motor.
 
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