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Hi, after some tuning and adding 6 guide spacers, yes 6 guide spacers my car is running great, I'm pleased with it now, lol.

I was a bit disheartened at first as out of the box the car was sitting way low on my Scalextric sport track, after changing the front tyres to some Slot.it zero grips(Sipt07) I found that they were rubbing on the front light insert(black plastic piece), so I had to find another suitable tyre with slightly lower profile, I eventually settled on some Supertires 1400C(silicone), along with 6 NSR guide spacers(the 0.25mm size NSR4819) to get the front ground clearance on the car and to stop it scraping on the track.
The reason I went with the silicone tyre was because I thought they would offer less grip as I normally always use Urethanes on my track, silicones don't grip well if you have been using urethanes on the track, and so would act like zero grip tyres.

Along with some Yellowdog 1409Y Urethane rear tyres, the car was handling very well now.

Also I removed the awful looking inserts and now I can see the nicely finished NSR wheels, this makes the car look way nicer to the eye. The inserts turned out to be easily removed just by pushing them out with the axle.


I also cut just the bottom of the motor sticker off with an x-acto knife, as it was catching on the track joints and the sticker was looking untidy with all the damage.
 

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QUOTE (chris99 @ 5 Oct 2011, 16:12) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>ok spacers removed from pod screws & spacer put in the guide - track clearance is fine.

What guide spacers do you use, are they the NSR ones, how many did you use?

I see NSR make 2 thickness's of spacers, I had to use 6 of the 0.25 ones, but still get slight scraping in places and on some corners.

Is their not a thicker spacer that can be bought from somewhere or some brand, so I don't need to use 6 plus spacers.

Also my guide keeps popping out, not a problem as it is easy to push back in, maybe I should try the screw in guide?
 

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If these are the washer-like spacers that sit between the the top of the guide flag and the chassis, why not fashion something out of scrap plastic sheet (such as blister wrap packaging etc).

EDIT** f1remouth, just noticed your comment about the front body screw. After talking to some club racers who are seriously fast on a Ninco four laner, I was advised to leave the body screws undone a little (anywhere between an eight of a turn and two full turns - depending on circumstances). The idea is to promote a bit of body rock which should aid in letting the car float a bit instead of popping out of the slot on corners. A little bit of tape over the screw holes will stop the screws dropping out if they work loose. Few things worse than the dreaded SAFE MODE stopping your track fun!

I've tried this on all the cars I use on my Scaley digital setup and it makes quite a difference to my lap times(for the better). Mag or magless, it really helps. I also trim the bodywork gently, wherever it meets the chassis, to prevent one grabbing the other and allowing the transition to stay smooth.

Give it a little play and see if it makes a difference to you.
 

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It's funny cause this out of the box was a big disappointment but after an hour or so tuning it, I can see what a great car it is.

I can also see it must have been designed to run on flat wood tracks or similar.

The car has definitely grown to be a favourite of all my cars very quickly, it handles like a dream, the motor feels pure quality, and sure is fun to drive.

I changed the stock 31tooth red crown for a silver coloured 33tooth, and boy it is quick.

I was worried about the high pinion of 14t on my not so big Scaley track, but it is just fine.


Smurfen - you are correct leaving the front body screw a few turns loose really helps in a few ways.
 

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QUOTE (f1rem0uth @ 26 Mar 2012, 09:54) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>What guide spacers do you use, are they the NSR ones, how many did you use?

I see NSR make 2 thickness's of spacers, I had to use 6 of the 0.25 ones, but still get slight scraping in places and on some corners.

Is their not a thicker spacer that can be bought from somewhere or some brand, so I don't need to use 6 plus spacers.

Also my guide keeps popping out, not a problem as it is easy to push back in, maybe I should try the screw in guide?
Hi

At first I just put a bit of old plastic from some old screw packaging laying around in my toolbox & it worked fine. It wasn't really necessary, but I now have 3 * 0.25mm NSR metal spacers (code 4819) and and have no scraping or guide popping out. My track doesn't have any change in elevations though and is fairly new. I didn't see any thicker spacers.

I also put some blu tac along the motor to stop it rotating and have the flattest profile underneath, otherwise it would angle a fraction - hot glue is probably better if you don't plan on changing motors.

Chris
 

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I can't believe what I'm reading here. I've had a few NSR cars now and have had nothing but joy straight out of the box. Turns to wet joy after a small amount of tinkering. My Mossler was and still is stunning on the track (Old battered Ninco club track) Have I just been lucky??????
 

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It seems that the latest model Mosler cars have the the latest lower motor pods/chassis, and so have less track clearance, this is causing the cars to scrape on the track, especially on Scalextric type tracks. The older Mosler cars had more ground clearance and would therefore have run better out of the box.

So I believe anyway.
 

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QUOTE (chris99 @ 5 Oct 2011, 17:12) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Also and unrelated, I noticed the motor is pulsing at low revs and without the axle - it's easier to hear at 32 secs on video - what might be causing this? (I'm using the new SSD 6car APB with power max set at 75% & analog mode). I have only just noticed this & I think this is probably what was causing the original start/stop motion more than the the motor catching the track.

Just for reference, here's a copy of what I posted in the SSD forum:

Just to end the story which found a fix (but not the reason) in the SSD forum - I now have NSR & other high rpm cars going "smooth as butter" in analogue mode by just adding a 104M brown capacitor to the rails(also works if I add the cap directly to the motors).

Thanks to all especially Snurfen & MrFlippant for their testing.

So, it looks like a one-off related to something playing up in my Scalextric Advanced Powerbase, but maybe the solution will help another lost soul who finds the same problem.

Cheers
Chris
 
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