[roblees]

I bought an NSR Porsche 997 at gaydon. My first NSR, and it's actually legal for one of our classes which the others aren't. Tried it on the track on Tuesday and it was ghastly out of the box, mainly due (I hope) to the tyres not being glued and trued. However it was also lifting the front end on acceleration.

We have a fairly tight wooden track - the old East Devon Raceway.

Now I've had a good look and can see a few dimensions for adjustment. I'd like some feedback if possible to save weeks of experimenting.

Here's my initial thoughts.

Keep the air tyres it came with, or go to Ultragrips?
Wider ultragrips?

Glue and true all four tyres.

Coat the front tyres in superglue or similar to reduce grip.

All four wheels spaced out to fill the wheelarches as far as possible without fouling

Use the four grubscrews provided to limit front axle up and down movement so that the tyres just skim the track surface and move maybe 0.5mm up from that.
Lock up the droparm with the screw provided. I'd like a little movement but the screw fouls on the hole in the chassis.

Three motor pod screws and the three body mount screws all about half a turn loose.

No lead, taken magnet out for obvious reasons!

Leave everything else alone (guide still goes up and down in its socket, motor staill rotates in its mountings).

That's it so far - is any of this wrong - is there anything further which needs doing?

Best Rob

 

[owensy]

I've upgraded to air hubs and ultra grip tyres, glued and trued the tires on mine and it runs very well. Still running it in tho

Stephen

 

[John Parr]

Glued the motor in and added a small amout of lead at the front fitted air hubs and it go,s like a dream..

 

[Screwneck]

???

I though all NSR cars came fitted with air system rear wheels? If they do, then unless you've got cash to throw away, there's nothing to gain by replacing them.

Anyways up, you should certainly adjust the width of the wheels as far as possible without them dragging on the bodywork!

Beyond that, if you defined 'ghastly' then maybe folks could give specific advice to make your new plastic baby run better?

 

[JOHN SECCHI]

Hi Rob
Brought one back from my recent visit to Italy, i also tried it out of the box at Woodgreen [with Ortman tyres] and as yours it was carp!
Apart from the adjustments you mention i also did the following:
The gearing as it came was about 2.2:1 which found undrivable so replaced the 14t pinion with a 12t.
Using smaller diameter rear tyres i managed to losen the pod screws and lowered the back end quite a bit, replaced and trued the front tyres to suit ground clearance.
Locked up the drop arm, left it a little loose so as to not distort the chassis and also allowed plenty of body movement by leaving the body screws very loose.
Not sure why they use a guide which has so much shaft movement but restricted it.
Screws and washers were used to hold the motor in place, no lead on the car at all.
When a light weight intirior becomes available then i will replace it as the one fitted weighs a ton and all in the wrong place!
Tried it again last Tuesday and the thing was transformed, probably needs a few more adjustments but it can't be too far off.
Good luck
[oneofwos]

 

[slots.inc]

Hi Rob,

We race NSR's here in the south of Italy, but not on a wood track. Almost all racers modify NSR cars and the 997 is no exception. You could try the following tweeks.

Swop the rear tyres for PRS GT lights, change the fronts to Slot.it low grip hard ZO P1's, 14.2 x 8mm (quite a stretch!).

Don't glue the tyres to the rims, it's not necessary. You won't need superglue on the front tyres.

Restrict the drop arm movement to 1mm and make sure there is 0.5mm sideplay in the front and rear axles. Gear ratio should be OK as standard, the motor is quite torquey.

Slacken off the motor pod screws so the pod has about 1.5mm of movement in the chassis and replace the chassis/bodymount screws with longer, fine thread set screws, cheesehead type. The fine thread will not catch in the chassis mounting holes and therefore move more freely. The chassis should move at least 2mm off the body mounting posts. Make sure there's no fouling between chassis and bodyshell, if poss.

You could also try changing the slot guide for a deep slot.it guide, they are longer and deeper than the NSR type.

Change the interior for a lightweight version.

You should find the car drives smoother. Let us know how you get on.

Ciao,

Chris R

 

[Flange]

On wood track set the drop arm up all the way , my car runs fine now standard , all I have done it trued front wheels and back ones on air hubs get some long metric screws and set the body pretty loose

 

[AllanI]

The initial comment seems to apply to the NSR Corvette I bought on Sunday. I gave it a run at Scale Models wood track last night and it did not go well. I've glued and trued the rear tyres changed to a Slot it wood guide and cleaned up the hole in the chassis to let the drop arm work. Quick acceleration has the rear end hopping about and lifting the guide out of the slot, similarly exiting corners lots of rear end hop. Any help appreciated.

Allan

 

[brembo]

Running on wood I think you need to Super Glue the motor and wheel bearings into the pod I also screw the motor in at the pinion end of the motor using the holes provided as an added precaution. I also run with the front screw of of the motor pod loose enough to allow some movement front to back but not up and down.

 

[Porsche Racer]

QUOTE (Screwneck @ 26 May 2011, 14:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>???

I though all NSR cars came fitted with air system rear wheels? If they do, then unless you've got cash to throw away, there's nothing to gain by replacing them.

I don't think the NSR 997 Rally cars come with Air System hubs but the 997 GT's do.

The OP says he has Air Tires on his car though.

 

[brembo]

Correct Porsche Racer 997 Rally versions do not come with air system rear wheels as I found out when I got mine. The tyres they come with are the very low profile ones fitted to the Clio/Arbarth 19.5x11 (5231) not enough rubber for my taste!
Cheers
Steve

 

[roblees]

Thanks guys. Yes mine was a race car so came wih air system tyres.
Define ghastly - tramping all over the place, wheelies down the straight, sufficient to deslot on a kink evrery other car takes flat...

 

[roveros]

Roblees if your car is going to run on a tight track an evo with 14/31 gears is definately overpowered. Do you have a controller with a choke? If not down motoring is the best way possible. Slots.inc gives some great tips on how to setup a car for plastic track which is exactly what not to do if you are running on wood. For a wood track firm up the drop arm to solid. The porsche has an adjustable front end so lift it to just above track height or just touching (up to you) then from the top take out any of the slop so the front end is firm. Same goes for the pod screw it up tight then back the tension of a 1/4 or half turn just so the pod is not pulling on the chassis but is still firm. If you are allowed to add weight add a few grams in the triangle between the motor and the rear axle (only 2 or 3gms) and add some in the nose of the car as far forward and centred as possible. Always glue the tyres to the hubs as wood has no give and wont absorb energy like plastic does so gluing the tyres is essential.

I cant give you a tip regarding tyre choice because that is track specific. Just use what grips best on the surface you run on.

 

[brembo]

Hi Rob
Gearing on the old East Devon Track needs to be around 2.7 - 3.0 I would suggest nearer 3.0 for this car.
Tyres - Ultra Grips work best but there is not much in it with the Super Sports that it came with.
As you say the track is short and twisty but it does have plenty of grip so when you add the weight put it all as close behind the guide as you can.
Regards
Steve

 

[Flange]

Don't add weight, it will only slow the car down, set the car up well enough to not need weight its very rarely completely necessary. If your popping out you may have too much grip with the ultras which may mean the super grips are better which is what i found at our club

.

 

[roblees]

Brilliant feedback thanks all - there's more than one FLBT member watching this thread with great interest.

 

[roveros]

interested to know what worked for you and if there are any new tips you found and can share

 

[Flange]

True tyres as low as you can to get the motor close to track and cog down

run front 3.5 turns loose and the back 1.0 turns

 

[Ratracer]

The 997 comes with non Air rims but will take the air systems without any issues.

Several of our racers at our club (we race on timber tracks) set the chassis/pod up get the car running smooth then run a small line of superglue along the rear of the pod/chassis to stop any movement, this helps to stop and shudder under acceleration and braking.

If you are having trouble with the car wheel standing Ultragrips will only make the situation worse use Supergrips instead. As Roveros above stated gearing and controller (sensitivity/choke/traction control) can assist.

Also depending on the surface that you race on look at the chassis and pod stiffness you can get soft, medium and hard from NSR for timber use the hard white pod and chassis for plastic use the soft.

Regards

Ray

 

[roblees]

Car's now returned to original condition and is on Ebay, 99p start.

linky to auction

Enjoy!