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· Administrator
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Oh, I see you've clarified that on your first line now. I used it to good effect for a while, but as an engineer it seems to be anti-intuitive to use a lubricant to increase friction. But it works, oh boy does it work.

I know you are advocating using a different rubber compound but I have found that even the softest F15 slot it tyres are not as grippy as P4s with a good oiling. Softness is not everything (which again goes against my old beliefs) somehow the oiled rubber gets affininity to a rubbered in track and provides a level of grip that defies sense.

But WD-40 is not the best by any means and it can leave some horrible deposits that are hard to clean. I got my latest tyre treatment recipe from another club and it is magic stuff. But the ingredients are a secret and some parts are a touch volatile!
 

· WRP World Champ 2015/2016
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4,299 Posts
First club type race I ever attended (The "Llanmarino Grand Prix) there was much hilarity and ribbing of one particular racer as he had tried to sneak in some wintergreen based tyre prep. How he thought he'd sneak wintergreen into the county unnoticed, let alone sneak into a church hall, I have no idea!

When quized about why wintergreen was banned, I was told "allegedly it's carconogenic. Or as we call it, just too good"
 

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QUOTE (keysandslots @ 15 Nov 2011, 03:17) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Many of the tracks around here use silicones and only silicones. The problem seems to be that as long as silicone is all you run on your track, eventually the track gets "rubbered in" and the tires work great. As soon as you run some other kind of tire, the silicone gets removed and the track needs to start over again.

I'll warn you that you should take what I say with a grain (or shaker) of salt because ...
Randy

Heya Randy,

I think your approach and thinking is very methodical, and it reminded me of our own journey as a club from keeping the neo magnet industry solvent, to keep NASA's surface coating and lubricant industry solvent . . . LOL

Fortunately we have settled a bit as we became more experienced.

But I would suggest that your comment re: silicons is a bit different to what we have experienced.
We run all wood tracks now, from semi-gloss acrylics, through high gloss to super high gloss "2 pot enamel" like is found on cars and kitchen joinery.

Our experience is that silicons mainly mop up/remove the rubbered up nature of a track, reducing their own grip with the coating, at the same time as reducing the grip for rubber tyres as they remove the rubbber build up.

if you run ONLY or nearly all silicons, you will eventually see slight scuff marks from them on a gloss surface, though this doesn't seem to have much effect on grip plus or minus.
I doubt there is any silicon deposit on a lower grip track like scaley sport as the silicon takes a fair bit of abuse before any compound disengages from the surface.

We run our several club tracks clean (no rubbering up), and have completely cob-washed the old wives tales about silicon and rubber being completely incompatible.

Certainly the old theory about silicons simply leaving a silicon slippery deposit on tracks is untrue, probably created by the inverse situation when tracks lose sticky rubber build up.

They ARE incompatible if you want to run "rubbered up" tracks, as the silicon lifts any gradual rubbering up from the surface and reduces grip for rubber tyres, and also for the silicons if there was any visible amount of rubber.
But for clean tracks, we run both compounds in same race, or for sequential classes, silicon then rubber or vice versa with no problems at all.

As example - for all - in our Slot.it Group C class, we have F22 and silicons as permitted compounds, and without using any "stickers" on the F22 they are maybe 1/10th a lap slower than silicon on a track with a 6 - 7 second lap, but close enough that some cars/drivers run on them for their forgiving, and easy drive style of handling, which can reduce "offs" and level the playing field. - Sillies are a bit more "on or off" and may shudder on uneven surfaces if the car isn't set up right, which F22s cope with better.
I have about 6 Grp C "runners" and have 4 on sillies and 2 on F22.
F15 would probably be quicker, but are that much hard to true perfectly, I don't bother just for club racing.
 

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QUOTE (slotcrazy @ 15 Nov 2011, 20:41) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>F15 would probably be quicker, but are that much hard to true perfectly,

I'll second that. Like trying to file a blancmange....
 

· Ewan McKen
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1,436 Posts
Lubricating the Braids makes all the difference on my old Escorts and Minis on Sport Track. Try some braid conditioner.

I am still running fine on ancient tyres.
Some split, some went hard, but the ones that still look and feel fine still run fine.
They get better after a few laps, I think they just like a bit of heat in.

Regards,
Ewan
 

· David H
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4,388 Posts
QUOTE (darrenmcc @ 12 Nov 2011, 20:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>so i've got aload of cars from about 20years ago,
Don't mess about with tyre additives, silicon tyres or anything else (unless you're racing against others who do), just bite the bullet and change to Ninco track. It's a one off expense which will be partly or completely offset by the money you'll save by not needing to buy new tyres for your cars.
 

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Come on down dopamine, I used to get into so much trouble for telling it as it is, scalex sport track is cxxp.
It would also appear that English silicon is different to silicon produced in other areas of the world because there experience is different to ours, or are they using magnets, or talking about a different scale, it is always difficult when responding to questions to give a balanced responce, we forget to say that we are using magnets or two and a half ton of lead in the car, racing large/small scale.
Just opening up a very large can of worms.
Zen
 

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89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
lol i got scared! kidden on! just had a few things to do and not had time to get online.

tbh, i wasnt expecting a one post answer , as everyones different, but at the same time....i wasnt expecting nearly 4 pages of different things to try. suppose i thought with sport track being around for a while, that people wouldve had a solution.

thanks for the offer with the tyres (keyandslots), i'm in ireland at the moment, and tbh, i've had a fair few thigns lost in the post. tho i'll be goin back to scotland for xmas so that could be an option, just have to clear it with my dad first.

a few ppl have mentioned about ninco track and the wood track route, but tbh, i dont really wanna fork out to much money at the moment, and as i mite be moving house soon, i've dismantled the track i have (although still working on a new layout on the comp) and need a few bits of track to finish it. Although i like scalex stuff, i dont wanna dive to far into the hobby (in fear of spending to much money and becoming poor on a month to month basis), i've got about 69 cars now, and most of the new ones that i've obtained, are sittin on a shelf, just to show them off really. so racing them isnt a big issue for me, but with the older cars that have been used before, i wouldnt mind having a race with them, so would just be good that, when needed, they went round the track like they go round the classic track. that said.....I am lookin at goin digital, but again, well after xmas and the new house move before that happens.

just to thank everyone for your replys, and i hope there's no bickerin of wd-40 bein oil or not lol

thanks again
 

· One petunia in a field of onions
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6,433 Posts
Not everyone thinks Sport track is rubbish. Many like it's properties. I run exclusively urethane tyres (most MJKs and a few special formula homebrews someone makes for me). Love it.

It does come down to what you're used to and what you want.

Embs
 

· Greg Gaub
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17,537 Posts
I agree. My perfect track would be Sport surface and Ninco connections.
I personally like the option of more or less grip depending on tires (Sport), rather than always tons of grip because of the surface (Ninco).
Yes, there ARE solutions for good running on sport. We've given them. They are:
1) treat the tires to soften them (only works with rubber, not silicone or urethane)
2) replace the tires with grippier ones (silicone, urethane, NSR, etc)

You get the amount of grip you want. Simples.

Just take the sage advice of those who know from experience... no matter what kind of tyre you choose to change to or stick with... stick with it. If you go silicone, it's best to run only silicone. If you go with Urethane, best to stick to mostly urethane. If you stick with rubber, then only replace with other rubber. Rubber and urethane are ok together, but if you run silicone and rubber on the same track, neither will ever get their full level of grip. If you run only rubber for a while, don't put silicone tires to the track, or you'll be at square one with the rubber tires.

At this point, I wish I hadn't ever used silicone, but it's not that big of a deal. I use all kinds of tires on my track. Treated and cleaned NSR tires have CRAZY grip on sport track. My cars literally jump out of the slot there's so much grip. Well trued and polished urethane tires are also great, as are nice clean silicone tires.

Whatever your track, there will be good tires for it, and bad tires for it. Whatever tires you choose, there will be things you need to know about tire cleaning and prepping, and track cleaning/prepping/maintenance. People can argue "best" until the cows come home. What YOU like is what's important. Or, if you begin racing with a club or group, set up your track to be the same so you can test/practice on a like surface.
 

· Premium Member
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8,009 Posts
Embers right.
There`s nothing wrong with Sport Track. It is designed for the modern slot car with magnets. SCX are dropping the old Classic track & have also brought out a smooth surface track.
But if you want the best track for performance, forget your Nincos ect.
Look (very hard) for VIPTrack or go on Ebay Germany & get some Fleischmann track.
Cheers,
Kev.
 

· Administrator
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I agree that the surface is fine if you are running the latest cars with loads of mag, but the thread started with Darren trying to understand why his old cars won't grip. Fundamentally the change of surface messes up racing all the pre-mag cars that were designed to run on classic track with its inherent grip characteristic...

QUOTE (darrenmcc @ 12 Nov 2011, 20:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>so i've got aload of cars from about 20years ago, and having recently purchased my first sport track, i've noticed most of my old cars cant seem to get an grip at all on the track. ive tried 2x le mans, 3x F1, some old escorts, and none are able to grip the sport track like the gripped the vintage track.
anyone got any idea's or types of tyres that suit F1, le mans, xr3i's etc to help them grip, or is there a different method?
 

· One petunia in a field of onions
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6,433 Posts
If new cars can be made to run fine on Sport track with no magnet, then surely old cars can too. And it doesn't require copious quantities of gloop and oil and tyre additives.
 
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