If you want to retain the 4WD on your Xsara, the easiest way to give it a bit more performance would be to put in SCX's own ProTurbo 4WD motor. Also, if you are still using the magnet, you could take it out. This will make the car a lot more fun to drive and it will feel a lot faster! (Many SF members will start laughing at me at this point, as I'm more known for adding magnets to cars than taking them out...)
Early Xsaras have the bog standard RX-81 whereas if you buy one of the more recent releases it will have a breathed on variant that gives a bit more of a lick to the car. If you take a look-see at the underside the text "RX-81" is a little larger on the new motors and if you have a look inside the body the metal of the can is bent around the aperture on it too.
Talk to Sean mate, he`ll sort you out the NC 2 plus adaptor. Pretty sure it will go in but the Pro Turbo plus is just as quick. Fit good tyres to the rear as well. i use Pro Slot 19 x 11 and straight line and cornering speed is much better
If you nwant a dropin 2wd NC2 type try: Cartrix CTX1174 Motor TX2 NC2 Style 18,600rpm to fit SCX chassis supplied with motor adaptors and pinion 9.50pounds from Sean
My personal choice for power though is:
CTX1173E Motor SH Pro 30,000rpm fits SCX chassis supplied with motor mount & magnet 13.00pounds from Sean.
The second is an FK-130 that is the same as the old Plafit Fox. It comes with a second traction magnet if you desire the added downforce.
Performance per pound spent is better than NC type from Ninco
Slotit SIMC05 V12/2 29.000 MOTOR + ADAPTOR FOR SCX In Stock 11.00 (an FC-130)
RP28197 RT-10 NC2 TYPE MOTOR FITS SCX CHASSIS 13.00 (exactly the same as NC2 with adaptor)(more expensive)
SC-07 MABUCHI TYPE MOTOR TO FIT FLY, NINCO, SCALEXTRIC, MRRC, PROSLOT @ 12V, 35,000rpm, 0.44amp, 190gr/cm, Size 25x20x15mm £6.95 (make your own adaptors)
One of my favorites also. One thing that is weak on some of them though is the brush assy. If you take the endbell off you can get better performance by adding a drop of epoxy to each brush where it enters the plastic holder. make sure the brushes are pushed into the holder completely, aligned, and then let the epoxy harden. By allowing the bead of epoxy to extend down the leaf spring very slightly you can make the leaf slightly stiffer and able to hold more pressure against the comm. This allows more consistant rpm and less brush "bounce" at high speed and during accereration when the brush springs are stressed. Try it, you'll notice a marked improvement after you breakin the motor.
Add a couple of $1.00 ball bearings, $6.00 Neo motor magnets and the motor is a real screamer.
yeh but how do u plan to get the drive to the front wheels via the non existing long shaft on the motr..... cog 4wd not belt...... (on the 206 ne way.....) so ur saying ps tyres and protubo motor... but the real question i have is: is the money better spent on my single? (on a f1 slotit back axel kit) remembering that the single is running an sc07 and proslot mag.... i think not....
If you must have 4wd it is actually pretty easy on many standard motors. Just lengthen the front shaft of the SC07, for example. This can be done in several ways but the easiest I've founf is:
1. measure the amount the shaft is short of reaching the front axle crown auto align feature.
2. cut a piece of an old motor shaft to that size or close.
3 make final length fitting and install the front drive pinion onto the shaft piece.
4. put the 2 shafts together using 2mm ID tubing or ,easier still, any long pinion(each shaft pressed in half way.) Solder as necessary.
I've used this method countless times to lengthen shafts and haven't failed yet.
There are also various collars available to allow lengthening of the shaft.
You can just dewind the 81 armature and gain some performance. If I remember right I removed about 20turns of wire from each pole (Fate mentioned that amount, though on anything other than cheap motors he perferred rewinding)and gained enough to make it run with my NC1/2s on a short track at 13.8 vdc. You can experiment with this to get more performance at whatever voltage you run at. If you want to get technical, I'm sure Fate or one of the other guys can tell you how many turns of what gauge(34AWG?) are on each pole(I've never counted) and you can look on a gauge chart to figure out how much resistance you remove per meter(foot) of wire. Armatures between 1.5-2.5ohms seem to work okay without too much heat.
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