Oxigen and Ninco analog compatibility
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QUOTE (Miminut @ 1 Apr 2012, 05:30) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>We are using the heavy duty race magnet from slot it for this.Refer to the manual and this will show you the way to attach it to the track ( positive and negative). When attaching them to the track use an epoxy glue or a strong super glue
I ordered CN06 Neodimium Magnet The seem much smaller than the race magnets you mentioned. I wonder if your magnets are also wider and stronger?
I ordered CN06 Neodimium Magnet The seem much smaller than the race magnets you mentioned. I wonder if your magnets are also wider and stronger?
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In post #20, Maurzio talks about the setup for switching between Oxigen and Ninco analog:
"If you have an analog Ninco track, you can convert it to oXigen digital and keep compatibility with analog circuit. Add LC sections, according to our instructions. Ninco's LC remain straight in analog mode so you can still use the analog track in analog mode. Then build a simple jack that must be plugged in the powerbase so that each lane gets full voltage from the power supply. Plug it in, and the track is ready to go in digital mode (PUT A FUSE - so you're protected against leaving a screwdriver across rails, for example. Remember you alway have full power on rails in digital mode). Then popwe on the controllers, put the cars on the track, and off you go. Tired of digital - remove the plugs, and put your controllers in. As simple as that. You need some magnets to do the finish line."
I am in the process of doing exactly this setup, but I would like more information about building the simple jack that shorts the powerbase to give full power to the rails. My Ninco powerbase is the one with the 1/4" jacks and separate power plugs. I can go to Radio Shack and get the jacks; and I already purchased the in-line fuse boxes and 5 amp fuses.
Which connections need to be shorted and are there any tips on making this relatively clean looking? I thought I saw another thread where someone had pictures of just such a modified jack, but I can't seem to find it again.
I just started testing the car, chip, and SCP. I have been getting full power to the rails by using a rubber band to hold the trigger down on an analog controller.
I know this is basis information, but I get nervous when it comes to wiring.
Thanks,
Kevin
"If you have an analog Ninco track, you can convert it to oXigen digital and keep compatibility with analog circuit. Add LC sections, according to our instructions. Ninco's LC remain straight in analog mode so you can still use the analog track in analog mode. Then build a simple jack that must be plugged in the powerbase so that each lane gets full voltage from the power supply. Plug it in, and the track is ready to go in digital mode (PUT A FUSE - so you're protected against leaving a screwdriver across rails, for example. Remember you alway have full power on rails in digital mode). Then popwe on the controllers, put the cars on the track, and off you go. Tired of digital - remove the plugs, and put your controllers in. As simple as that. You need some magnets to do the finish line."
I am in the process of doing exactly this setup, but I would like more information about building the simple jack that shorts the powerbase to give full power to the rails. My Ninco powerbase is the one with the 1/4" jacks and separate power plugs. I can go to Radio Shack and get the jacks; and I already purchased the in-line fuse boxes and 5 amp fuses.
Which connections need to be shorted and are there any tips on making this relatively clean looking? I thought I saw another thread where someone had pictures of just such a modified jack, but I can't seem to find it again.
I just started testing the car, chip, and SCP. I have been getting full power to the rails by using a rubber band to hold the trigger down on an analog controller.
I know this is basis information, but I get nervous when it comes to wiring.
Thanks,
Kevin
I am not sure I understand the question about the pit lane.
You've understood correctly the concept by using an analog controller and keeping the trigger pulled by a rubber band. I need to look into the Ninco power base to help you. I need some time.
regards
Maurizio
You've understood correctly the concept by using an analog controller and keeping the trigger pulled by a rubber band. I need to look into the Ninco power base to help you. I need some time.
regards
Maurizio
My lane changers do not seem to work with the ninco setup
I have the dip switches set to 1 Off 2-4 On I am using the Ninco Analogue transformer attachment to the track and the car works fine with the slot it controller but the Crossover track wired as shown in diagram doesn't function at all
Have I missed something
Thanks Neale
I have the dip switches set to 1 Off 2-4 On I am using the Ninco Analogue transformer attachment to the track and the car works fine with the slot it controller but the Crossover track wired as shown in diagram doesn't function at all
Have I missed something
Thanks Neale
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18 Posts
Please excuse my ignorance, but I'm still not clear on all this.
I have Ninco that I'm converting to O2, and I'm still yet to power it up (for fear of frying some of my investment).
I have an NDigital powerbase (version 1.08 I believe) and a standard analog powerbase (10118 on Nincos website). Also available, but not yet in my collection is the analog "double power" powerbase (10416).
Also, I have a good aftermarket switching power supply unit to use (0 to 16 volts and up to 40 amps).
I'm not a smart man. Can some kind person please tell me the best way to get power to my Oxiginated Ninco track?
Thanks guys.
I have Ninco that I'm converting to O2, and I'm still yet to power it up (for fear of frying some of my investment).
I have an NDigital powerbase (version 1.08 I believe) and a standard analog powerbase (10118 on Nincos website). Also available, but not yet in my collection is the analog "double power" powerbase (10416).
Also, I have a good aftermarket switching power supply unit to use (0 to 16 volts and up to 40 amps).
I'm not a smart man. Can some kind person please tell me the best way to get power to my Oxiginated Ninco track?
Thanks guys.
Hey mr. Human
I am using ninco track with an aftermarket power supply (13,8v fixed, 20a peak, 6a fuse). The power supply wires are soldered underneath a straight piece of track (look in the oxigen manual for instructions). The power supply gives power to all lanes as i run digital. If you want to run digital this is pretty straight forward with oxigen. I never run ninco system cars on my track.
Good luck
I am using ninco track with an aftermarket power supply (13,8v fixed, 20a peak, 6a fuse). The power supply wires are soldered underneath a straight piece of track (look in the oxigen manual for instructions). The power supply gives power to all lanes as i run digital. If you want to run digital this is pretty straight forward with oxigen. I never run ninco system cars on my track.
Good luck
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26 Posts
Mr. Human,
I have finally got my Ninco track setup the way I wanted, and it works great. I use an aftermarket variable power supply similar to the one you have available, and I use the "double power" base track (10401). I originally used the standard analog power base track, and it worked fine also. I have two leads coming from the power supply that plug into the double power base. I have figured out how to make a jack plug with an inline fuse that shorts the lane so the track has full power all the time. The only other thing that I have done is use two "2x power track booster cables" (10314) to get even power all the way around the track. This cured my initial problem of the Lane Change sections not getting enough power to stay open long enough for the cars to change lanes. My track is fairly long and I probably need to clean each track section's contact points, but the booster cables work fine for now.
This setup is great because most of my cars are still analog, and I can easily change from O2 back to analog simply by replacing the shorted jack plugs with a normal analog controller. I also use PC Lap Counter for race management and it works great also. I currently have ten Slot-It cars chipped and we have great digital races with six cars at a time. We then switch to analog and race our old cars in a match race setup.
I will take some pictures and post them here in a day or two. Hopefully this will give you a better idea of how I have my track setup.
Kevin
p.s. Maurizio, how long until we can purchase the SCP01h with the O2 cartridge already installed? Also, the "double power" track base allows each lane to switch directions; would running backwards in analog mode harm the LC electronics?
I have finally got my Ninco track setup the way I wanted, and it works great. I use an aftermarket variable power supply similar to the one you have available, and I use the "double power" base track (10401). I originally used the standard analog power base track, and it worked fine also. I have two leads coming from the power supply that plug into the double power base. I have figured out how to make a jack plug with an inline fuse that shorts the lane so the track has full power all the time. The only other thing that I have done is use two "2x power track booster cables" (10314) to get even power all the way around the track. This cured my initial problem of the Lane Change sections not getting enough power to stay open long enough for the cars to change lanes. My track is fairly long and I probably need to clean each track section's contact points, but the booster cables work fine for now.
This setup is great because most of my cars are still analog, and I can easily change from O2 back to analog simply by replacing the shorted jack plugs with a normal analog controller. I also use PC Lap Counter for race management and it works great also. I currently have ten Slot-It cars chipped and we have great digital races with six cars at a time. We then switch to analog and race our old cars in a match race setup.
I will take some pictures and post them here in a day or two. Hopefully this will give you a better idea of how I have my track setup.
Kevin
p.s. Maurizio, how long until we can purchase the SCP01h with the O2 cartridge already installed? Also, the "double power" track base allows each lane to switch directions; would running backwards in analog mode harm the LC electronics?
Regarding the SCP01h with the O2 cartridge ... it's available in Australia (I bought one today) so it should be available over there. Mine came from:
http://www.armchairracer.com.au/index.php?...ducts_id=251645
http://www.armchairracer.com.au/index.php?...ducts_id=251645
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18 Posts
Thank you all for the info.
I'm still yet to power up. I like the idea of soldering wires directly to the track as Nincos double power powerbase will set me back another $60.00 AU (money I'd rather spend on a car for example), but I'll buy it if there's a real advantage in using it.
I'm no longer interested in NDigital so it'll be pure 02.
Analog would be handy for F1 cars, and others that are difficult to chip, but not vital as I'll be chipping any car that can accept one.
I really would appreciate pictures if you can find the time please Kevin. Your set-up sounds perfect for my requirements.
It's a big job and a big investment, and it's still not finished. I'm nervous and exited at the same time. Also, If it all works well, I'll be adding a pit lane.
Regards,
Peter.
I'm still yet to power up. I like the idea of soldering wires directly to the track as Nincos double power powerbase will set me back another $60.00 AU (money I'd rather spend on a car for example), but I'll buy it if there's a real advantage in using it.
I'm no longer interested in NDigital so it'll be pure 02.
Analog would be handy for F1 cars, and others that are difficult to chip, but not vital as I'll be chipping any car that can accept one.
I really would appreciate pictures if you can find the time please Kevin. Your set-up sounds perfect for my requirements.
It's a big job and a big investment, and it's still not finished. I'm nervous and exited at the same time. Also, If it all works well, I'll be adding a pit lane.
Regards,
Peter.
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26 Posts
Peter,
Sorry I have not posted any pictures yet. I had some trouble adding them to a post. I will keep trying.
Anyone: Do I have to be a paid subscriber to post pictures? It looks like upgrading to a paid subscription is currently out of order.
Kevin
Sorry I have not posted any pictures yet. I had some trouble adding them to a post. I will keep trying.
Anyone: Do I have to be a paid subscriber to post pictures? It looks like upgrading to a paid subscription is currently out of order.
Kevin
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17,530 Posts
For pics hosted by slotforum, yes. But you can use services like flickr and photobucket and such to post pictures and then inline or link them in messages.
QUOTE (Conditionaly Human @ 13 Jan 2013, 09:30) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thank you all for the info.
I'm still yet to power up. I like the idea of soldering wires directly to the track as Nincos double power powerbase will set me back another $60.00 AU (money I'd rather spend on a car for example), but I'll buy it if there's a real advantage in using it.
I'm no longer interested in NDigital so it'll be pure 02.
Analog would be handy for F1 cars, and others that are difficult to chip, but not vital as I'll be chipping any car that can accept one.
I really would appreciate pictures if you can find the time please Kevin. Your set-up sounds perfect for my requirements.
It's a big job and a big investment, and it's still not finished. I'm nervous and exited at the same time. Also, If it all works well, I'll be adding a pit lane.
Regards,
Peter.
My track is set up with wires direction to the rails for power from the PSU. I have not have issues.
Regarding your overall conversion.. all I can say is.. once you drive on this you wont want to go back !!
I'm still yet to power up. I like the idea of soldering wires directly to the track as Nincos double power powerbase will set me back another $60.00 AU (money I'd rather spend on a car for example), but I'll buy it if there's a real advantage in using it.
I'm no longer interested in NDigital so it'll be pure 02.
Analog would be handy for F1 cars, and others that are difficult to chip, but not vital as I'll be chipping any car that can accept one.
I really would appreciate pictures if you can find the time please Kevin. Your set-up sounds perfect for my requirements.
It's a big job and a big investment, and it's still not finished. I'm nervous and exited at the same time. Also, If it all works well, I'll be adding a pit lane.
Regards,
Peter.
My track is set up with wires direction to the rails for power from the PSU. I have not have issues.
Regarding your overall conversion.. all I can say is.. once you drive on this you wont want to go back !!
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26 Posts
For what it's worth, here is a link to some pictures of my track setup. This arrangement works well for my needs. I can easily switch from O2 to analog by simply pulling the jumper plug and inserting an analog controller. I also recently added a PS3 webcam interfaced with PC Lap Counter so I can count laps and have pit stops for analog racing.
Kevin's Track Setup
Kevin
Kevin's Track Setup
Kevin
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