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Prof I T
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11,196 Posts
hi
i have seen the name tamiya mentioned on more than one occasion and as they are sold for rc use they seem a good bet.

There are probably many more favoured by the scratch builders amongst us.
 

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Premium Member
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4,213 Posts
I tend to use either stock colours or mixed to order spray rattle cans from Halfords for car bodies etc, Vellejo paint for figures and scenic. Occasionally i get the airbrush out, but i find the mixed to order cans from Halfords have a good nozzle on them and they are much easier to clean/re-use. Primer and top coats from the same range.
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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5,717 Posts
For my personal resprays I use Createx Autoair, its available in dozens of colours and finishes and is designed for airbrush / airgun work.

I also use Pro Color paint which is made by Harder & Steenbeck and is premixed to the correct amount for airbrush work and gives a fantastic finish.

I use Tamiya for some of the detailed work post airbrushing.

Ah, almost forgot I use Halfords primer and Halfords lacquer for gloss or Humbrol for matt or satin.
 

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Philip Insull
Joined
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1,793 Posts
Mainly Halfords grey, white or red primer depending on the main top coat colour then normally Halfords rattle cans or occassionally Humbrol Acrylic spray - and very rarely the Airbrush if its a special mix colour such as the McLaren Can-Am cars. Detail work done in a mix of Revell, Humbrol, Tamiya and Games Workshop acrylics and Humbrol metalcoats. I still use Klear to seal decals, if you want a muddy / grimy raced finish add a couple of grains of coffee to a spot of Klear - works a treat.
Cheers
Phil
 

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Philip Insull
Joined
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1,793 Posts
Mainly Halfords grey, white or red primer depending on the main top coat colour then normally Halfords rattle cans or occassionally Humbrol Acrylic spray - and very rarely the Airbrush if its a special mix colour such as the McLaren Can-Am cars. Detail work done in a mix of Revell, Humbrol, Tamiya and Games Workshop acrylics and Humbrol metalcoats. I still use Klear to seal decals, if you want a muddy / grimy raced finish add a couple of grains of coffee to a spot of Klear - works a treat.
Cheers
Phil
 

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Philip Insull
Joined
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1,793 Posts
Hi Chris,
Normally two coats of primer, then 2 or 3 fine spray topcoats followed by a couple of coats of Klear, for scruffy /muddy effect once the topcoats are on I use a bit of old sponge dipped in muddy coloured acrylic paint for any spatter effecr then just one coat of the coffee tainted Klear.

Cheers
Phil
 

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Registered
Joined
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104 Posts
I prefer Vallejo acrylic paints and an airbrush. Tamiya in spray can works really well but the choice of colours gets a bit limited. Vallejo has a good range of colours, it's easy to mix your own shades and then the airbrush gives perfect control over the application.
The only drawback with this kind of paint is that it doesn't stand up well to wear. I protect the finished acrylic paint with several coats of Tamiya clear from a spray can and that works fine for my purposes. For pure racing it is probably better to use something like Tamiya or Halfords all the way to get a hard wearing surface.
One tip if you want to dilute Acrylic paint for the airbrush is to not use water, because water will mess up the properties of the paint and destroy coverage & adhesion. That will create all kinds of problems.
Better to use a dedicated acrylic medium like Liquitex airbrush medium. This stuff maintains the integrity of the paint even in a 50/50 mix, highly recommended.
Here's a recent repaint of a Carrera Willys Coupe for inspiration:

 
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