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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

A few days ago I started painting my MRRC slot-figures...
It went quite well, I thought it the result would be worse... (i'n not the fine painter you know)

Now I want to paint my metal SRA figures... but I don't now what to do for starters... I washed my platic figures in a bath with quite a lot of (don't know the exact word) dishwash-product to degrease them and so... i read it was good to do that... but now... i don't know with what I must prepare the metal figures for painting...

I searched the forum about this topic, but I didn't find the answer to my question. I read that SRA would make an "How to" on their site... but it isn't there yet.

Can you guys help me?

Greetz

Gunther
 

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Allan Wakefield
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I trim away the excess mold lines with a scalpel or similar, scrub them well with cheap powdery white toothpaste and the wife's toothbrush, wash off in warm water and leave to dry somewhere warm (NOT the oven
even Porsche 956s don't like to be dried in the oven ehh Maurizio?
)

Following that I give them a light but thorough spray with acrylic undercoat, let dry and paint the rest by hand to get the base colours. When this is done I use an ink colour wash in darker shades (to give creases to clothes for instance) and again leave to dry.
Next comes a dry brush with lighter shades of colour and finally a matt (or satin depending on finish required) acrylic laquer.

Simple as that


PS: I use almost exclusively those Dungeons and Dragons (Warhammer?) acrylic colours from Games Workshop, they do a great range and the colours mix well for the price.

PPS: I also remove those horrid slab bases but that is just me being fussy I guess and it takes alot of time
 

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Gregory Petrolati
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Prep your metal figures the same way... Thourough degreasing is key for a good finish.

For primer it will depend on what paint you plan to use. If you're using acrylic enamels, prime with a thin coat of flat acrylic base color or primer like light gray or white.

If you are painting with oil based paints you can prime with a thin coat of oil based, acrylic, or with even a laquer base primer. I paint with oil based paints and like to use a thin coat of laquer based primer. It dries really quickly and doesn't break down with oil based pigments.

Here are a couple of shots with my painted drivers





Greenman62
 

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Greeman 62, those figures are absolutley superb
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys...

I'll start scrubbing those figures with my girfriends toothbrush...
And i use a primer and normal paints of Humbrol...

@ Greenman 62: Those figures look amazing!!!
Wish i could do that...

Greetz

Gunther
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just finished the degreasing with toothpaste... they are drying now...

The difference is remarkable...

And boy do they smell good!!!


Greetz

Gunther
 

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Gregory Petrolati
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QUOTE (MAF @ 22 Jun 2004, 16:10)Greeman 62, those figures are absolutley superb

Thanks for the compliments!

Both of the little guys are my usual mix-n-match. The Javelin driver is a combination of a Maxi Models body, Tamiya military miniatures arms and the head from the driver pulling on his gloves from the MRRC pit side collection.

The Allard pilot is a modified Tamiya military figurine. This particular figure is one of the easiest conversions I've done to date. It comes from in the Tamiya "US Infantry Western European theater" set of figures. I believe it's the officer in the group and is the only one in an Eisenhower Jacket. It was an easy conversion to trim down the army pot helmet to make it look like the early polo helmet worn in the 50's.

The jacket was a gimme... It looks like a leather flying jacket from the "war" and would be a "natural" worn during a crisp fall race weekend. All I had to do was trim off the right arm and hand which was molded in the jacket pocket. The hardest bit was the goggles which were drops of clear epoxy dropped on after painting the eyes.

Greenman62
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
QUOTE (greenman62 @ 22 Jun 2004, 20:01)Both of the little guys are my usual mix-n-match. The Javelin driver is a combination of a Maxi Models body, Tamiya military miniatures arms and the head from the driver pulling on his gloves from the MRRC pit side collection.

The Allard pilot is a modified Tamiya military figurine. This particular figure is one of the easiest conversions I've done to date. It comes from in the Tamiya "US Infantry Western European theater" set of figures. I believe it's the officer in the group and is the only one in an Eisenhower Jacket. It was an easy conversion to trim down the army pot helmet to make it look like the early polo helmet worn in the 50's.

The jacket was a gimme... It looks like a leather flying jacket from the "war" and would be a "natural" worn during a crisp fall race weekend. All I had to do was trim off the right arm and hand which was molded in the jacket pocket. The hardest bit was the goggles which were drops of clear epoxy dropped on after painting the eyes.

Greenman62
You're nuts!!!

I'm allready glad I cant paint the vests and the trousers...

I haven't done a face yet...

What number of pencil do you use for eyes and stuff?

Greetz

Gunther
 

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Gregory Petrolati
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QUOTE (tDI_Fahrer @ 22 Jun 2004, 20:15)You're nuts!!!

What number of pencil do you use for eyes and stuff?
Nuts?!?

Nah... I'm just crazy


It comes from painting military miniatures in a former life.

I use a number of brushes from a #4 to a #0000 the larger brushes are for blocking in colors in large areas, like clothing. The middle numbers for blocking in smaller areas like faces and hands or dry brushing or washing overlaying colors. the smaller brushes are for the detail work.

Greenman62
 

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Allan Wakefield
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QUOTE I use a number of brushes from a #4 to a #0000

Me too!


I have a smaller than #0000 - it is a hair pulled from the wifes head and glued to a toothpick
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
QUOTE (Swissracer @ 22 Jun 2004, 14:01)... with cheap powdery white toothpaste and the wife's toothbrush, wash...

...it is a hair pulled from the wifes head and glued to a toothpick ...
Must be nice to be Swissracers wife...


Greeeeetz

Gunther
 

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Allan Wakefield
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QUOTE Must be nice to be Swissracers wife...


No pain No gain? I almost have her convinced of this
 

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Gregory Petrolati
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You guys are scarey!!!


My missus doesn't mind my doing building on the nice dining room table... I think that's sacifice enough


I just finished a reconstruction of a Ninco Healey (read lowering and stuffing an MRRC Cobra chassis in it among other appearance things) which If I can download the shots from my camera I'll post here shortly.

Greenman62
 

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Come on Gunther, you should have those figures painted by now... at least you've done the teeth nicely I suppose!

I always paint inside to out, i.e. skin tones first and, as a general principle, it's probably best to paint the lighter colours first then add the darker shades later.
QUOTE I also remove those horrid slab bases but that is just me being fussy I guess and it takes a lot of time
I tend to do the opposite to Swiss here. Some of Jonny's figures seem a little unsteady on their feet when you get them. Can't imagine why - maybe he likes to give them one for the road?
Dunno. Anyway I sometimes epoxy a weighty steel washer to the base just to make them stand up well - particularly important on uneven terrain. Remember people move and it's looks unnatural if they remain frozen to the spot in all your pictures.



...of course a stonking big base looks unnatural too! but if you place the figure behind a barrier...

It's just whatever you're happiest with I guess!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well... I have painted about 20 figures in the past days...
And I made my scenery more colorfull with advertising boards...

At this moment I'm painting the exact same picture that you posted...
I'm giving it his yellow "safety jacket"... together with his friend-marshalls...

I just can't imagine I do the faces good... so far I haven't done any of the eyes or mouths of the figures I have painted...

Will post update pictures of the scenery soon...

Greetz...

Gunther
 

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Gunther, you can make a face look good without too much detailing. If you paint the basic flesh tone, let it dry and then add a darker flesh "wash" you will find that the wash flows into the detail emphasising the facial features quite nicely. Same goes for hands and fingers.

You can add the extra details as your technique develops.

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks John...

And with what do you remove paint?
Because the yellow paint I used for the jackets... was not Humbrol... and turned out to be a shitty paint... so I have to re-do it with Humbrol paint...

Or maybe a second layer helps out... we'll see this evening...

GReetz

Gunther
 
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