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· Registered
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Hi Andy
Are you noticing any problems with your controller?
If not, you probably won't gain much by changing.

One problem Economy resistors are prone to is the wire moving around on the resistor - this can lead to failure. Further up the Parma range, the resistors have the resistance wire bonded on, but the don't on the Economy hence the problem. No point in replacing the resistor if it's working well, but if it does fail it would be a good idea to replace it with a better one.
 

· Bill Beggs
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1,930 Posts
Borrow someone's for a test.

I use Parma Econos 35 OHMs here on my track. I did add a Pot so I have adjustable brakes for various classes of cars we race. Others use Slot.It and PM ones. I do not find a big difference using theirs on a short track. I think it is more to how you squeeze that trigger. If anything replace the finger and upgrade the hand/eye co-ordination.
 

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The question asked was "Is it worth me upgrading to a Parma Plus controller?"

Black3sr raises a much wider question - what other upgrades are worth a try........And yes there's no doubt that the thing that makes most differance to how well the car goes is the skill of the driver.

A Parma Economy and a Parma Plus do much the same thing - no brake adjustment and no sensitivity adjustment. That's just fine of the one you have is right for the cars you are trying to drive. It isn't just fine if those weren't the best settings for your cars.

A brake pot might be worth trying, its a fairly cheap add on to either a Parma Economy and a Parma Plus. Reduced brakes are very useful with some magnet cars.

There are a couple of ways of adjusting the sensitivity of a Parma Economy and a Parma Plus, that's a long way short of what an electronic controller can do but some say its worthwhile.
 

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112 Posts
Hi people,

What is the difference between this two controllers? I mean Parma economy and Parma Plus??.
I have two Parma economy for the track, after a few months of use I needed to adjust the spring and cleaning the resistors and now are working well.
Is the Parma plus more strong?

Thank you.
 

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486 Posts
What is the difference between this two controllers? I mean Parma economy and Parma Plus??
Apart from the economy being about half the price....
The Plus has a better resistor - see post #2

The Plus has a different frame (apparently that makes the trigger smoother), separate brake and power contacts (which should improve brakes and full power) and heavier duty wiring (which should improve brakes and full power). The improvement in brakes and full power might not be noticeable with lower powered cars.
 

· Nobby Berkshire
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1,987 Posts
The Parma Plus has a huge metal heatsink that sticks out the top of the controller. This allows you to push the use of the controller through a slightly wider variable margin of motor and magnet set ups without it getting hot.

Alternatively, you could see it as a pointless addition if your controller ohm rating is fine for your racing and cars.
 

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825 Posts
Use what you have for now if it works and save your money for something a bit more advanced, like a Slot It, Professor Motor, TrueSpeed, Difalco or other electronic controller.

I bought several different controllers to try out, including a couple of pairs of various Parmas, and eventually bought a pair of PM controllers. These work fine for all of my cars, at various voltages, with motors ranging from stock homeset stuff (Scaley) to Parma 16Ds. The combination of an adjustable power supply and good controllers have so far been the best money I've spent on this hobby.

Randy
 

· Banned
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7,722 Posts
Go for the upgrade if it has adjustable brakes, those alone make a huge difference. After testing different controllers on an 8 second track one day for curiosity I noticed up to 0.4 seconds per lap difference. Now thats huge. Thats an entire lap in a 3 minute heat. Im not saying your particular upgrade will achieve that but I would suggest borrow one of a fellow club member and compare times before spending any cash.

Rick
 

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486 Posts
QUOTE (Screwneck @ 29 Dec 2011, 18:27) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The Parma Plus has a huge metal heatsink that sticks out the top of the controller. This allows you to push the use of the controller through a slightly wider variable margin of motor and magnet set ups without it getting hot.

Alternatively, you could see it as a pointless addition if your controller ohm rating is fine for your racing and cars.
Agreed the extra metal will help get rid of some more heat.
Controllers with the right ohm rating can still get hot.
 

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3,558 Posts
as much as i,d like one, electronic controllers are way way out of my price range. i got an avant slot black peugot and a black mr slotcar both less than half price! i run with the magnets taken out. gotta love the wife. both these cars run best on a 15 ohm parma, wich you can buy for £21 usa inc postage. all ive got is the 15ohm resistor slotted into a ninco case. but beware if your running 5 amp motors the case starts to melt,you can use the right size ally rod to poke through the hole in the resistor leaving a2in + piece poking out either sde to act as a heat sink. john.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've checked out the other controllers mentioned and there is no way I can justify spending nearly £200 on a controller. I'll keep the one I've got and maybe borrow a Parma Plus from someone at the club to see if it makes any difference.

Thanks for all your help everyone.

Happy New Year to you all.

Andy
 

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14 Posts
what does the different amount of resistance equate too?
ie 15ohm, 25ohm etc, Does it have something to do with the braking effect?
 

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QUOTE (re-slotted @ 1 Jan 2012, 16:55) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>what does the different amount of resistance equate too?
ie 15ohm, 25ohm etc, Does it have something to do with the braking effect?
The resistance is measured when the trigger is pushed just far enough to take it off the brake position.
It has nothing to do with the braking effect, which is a separate connection that is only made when the trigger is in the brake position.

Reasons you might need a lower resistance controller are powerful motors, cars with more grip, lower track voltages, tracks without tighter corners and driver preference.
(and vica versa - so you might need higher resistance for less powerful motors .......etc. )

Full brakes are when the brake connection is as near as practical to zero ohms. To reduce the brakes, resistance can be added in the brake circuit.
 

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154 Posts
Once you actually use an electronic controller, you won't go back to a standard one, and you will empty your wallet. Willingly.

But the Parma Plus is much better than the standard Parma Economy controller. The price of the Plus is double that of the Eco. You get an internal metal frame and heat sink, the wiring is heavier gauge, the trigger is far better, and the resistor is higher quality (but can be further improved by applying epoxy to the resistor and smoothing out the contact area where the wiper goes). It goes out of adjustment far less frequently than the Eco model.

If you decide to get one, there are other tweaks you can do, covered by many old postings on Euro and US forums. Most involve re-routing wires, adjusting the trigger, and modifying the resistor. For example:

http://slotcarillustrated.com/portal/forum...mp;postcount=36
http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/portal/f...ead.php?t=28247

 

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1,952 Posts
QUOTE (JCS100 @ 9 Mar 2010, 08:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Below is the updated diagrams for the controller used by 6 of the club members


Circuit Diagram


Construction Diagram

Cheers
John

QUOTE (JCS100 @ 12 Mar 2010, 08:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Here are the Constructional pics showing main wiring of the control box and Parma controller wiring.

Internal veiw of main controller box


SCD Wiper Board setup


Parma Turbo Handle internal veiw


If you are handy with a soldering iron and multi meter this is well worth the build time and willl save you loads of cash


Here is the link to the thread of the build How to Build Your Own Controller

Michael
 
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