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Brian Ferguson
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I cut PC boards with my Dremel (using cut-off discs) or with a hacksaw using a fine metal-cutting blade.
 

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Alan Tadd
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4,035 Posts
CG

Go to Maplin's website.

www.maplin.co.uk

The PCB order code is :-

HX00 PCB SRBP Smll Single .This is single sided PC Board,it comes on an 8"x4" sheet and costs about £7.50 for 10 sheets.

Regards

Alan
 

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Jan Groosmuller
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834 Posts
QUOTE (Fergy @ 17 Mar 2004, 21:50)I cut PC boards with my Dremel (using cut-off discs) or with a hacksaw using a fine metal-cutting blade.
??? what protective measures do you take to avoid harm from the dust?

Jan (wondering if anyone thought of this potential health risk)

BTW, I'm building a PC board chassis for my Kyosho Mini-Z to race it in our club, would be fun with a Ninco NC-2 inline configuration


P.P.S.: using double sided PC board, wonder if soldering is the best way to fit uprights on the baseplate... thoughts anyone?
 

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376 Posts
Jan

You can solder using some L bracing for strength.... but you need to be careful in how much heat you use.... the copper film on the PC board will delaminate in short order if you use too much heat..... Be sure to "tin" all your parts to be soldered.. it will cut down on the time and heat needed to make your joints.

I have a aritcle on my site on the PC board chassis I did up.....

http://jbriggsk9.tripod.com/chrisbriggsslotcarpage/id8.html
 

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Alan Tadd
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4,035 Posts
Jan....I always put on a face mask when cutting the board.

Double Sided board could cause problems of shorting if your chassis "bottoms-out" on uneven track, gradients etc.

It is probably best to use a combination of Solder and glue to fix Axle shoulders.

See Grah1 excellent site for details, and also look at Chris Briggs site to see how he builds a chassis.

Regards

Alan
 

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Jan Groosmuller
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834 Posts
QUOTE (JBriggsK9 @ 30 Mar 2004, 16:27)Jan

You can solder using some L bracing for strength.... but you need to be careful in how much heat you use.... the copper film on the PC board will delaminate in short order if you use too much heat..... Be sure to "tin" all your parts to be soldered.. it will cut down on the time and heat needed to make your joints.

I have a aritcle on my site on the PC board chassis I did up.....

http://jbriggsk9.tripod.com/chrisbriggsslotcarpage/id8.html
excellent info, thanks!!

boils down to not overheating the stuff, perhaps rosin core will do the trick... trial and error hehe... will see what happens tonight... pics will be available later


again thanks!

Jan
 

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Jan Groosmuller
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834 Posts
QUOTE (BEEJAY7 @ 30 Mar 2004, 16:30)Jan....I always put on a face mask when cutting the board.

Double Sided board could cause problems of shorting if your chassis "bottoms-out" on uneven track, gradients etc.

It is probably best to use a combination of Solder and glue to fix Axle shoulders.

See Grah1 excellent site for details, and also look at Chris Briggs site to see how he builds a chassis.

Regards

Alan
bootoming out will not be likely, the "thing" has a clearance of close to 4 mm... oh, yes, added some sort of torsion spring tension in the baseplate


we'll see.... but thanks for your input !

jan
 

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Brian Ferguson
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3,652 Posts
QUOTE ??? what protective measures do you take to avoid harm from the dust?

Jan, as Beejay said, I use a simple dust mask. If I was cutting and grinding this stuff all the time I'd probably want a proper respirator (like pro painters use), but a standard simple mask is adequate for occasional use.
 

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Jan Groosmuller
Joined
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834 Posts
QUOTE (Race-Jan @ 30 Mar 2004, 16:43)QUOTE (JBriggsK9 @ 30 Mar 2004, 16:27) Jan

You can solder using some L bracing for strength.... but you need to be careful in how much heat you use.... the copper film on the PC board will delaminate in short order if you use too much heat..... Be sure to "tin" all your parts to be soldered.. it will cut down on the time and heat needed to make your joints.

I have a aritcle on my site on the PC board chassis I did up.....

http://jbriggsk9.tripod.com/chrisbriggsslotcarpage/id8.html
excellent info, thanks!!

boils down to not overheating the stuff, perhaps rosin core will do the trick... trial and error hehe... will see what happens tonight... pics will be available later


again thanks!

Jan
First pic of my first scratch-built chassis....

http://groups.msn.com/hobbyfoto/slotracepr...oto&PhotoID=415

u like? I do
 

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Alan Tadd
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4,035 Posts
Excellent Jan, looks really good.

I like the wheels you've used, what make are they?

Regards

Alan
 

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Jan Groosmuller
Joined
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834 Posts
QUOTE (JBriggsK9 @ 3 Apr 2004, 17:32)Jan

looking good..... and yes what are the wheels and tires you are using???

Chris
Chris,

Wheels are by SSH, a german product (available at www.slot32.de), rear tires too but had to grind them about half way through to obtain at least some body clearance....
. front tires are kyosho, came with the body (were very true, but I ground them down on the inside...).
Running the bare chassis revealed I need about 20 grams of weight just in front of the rear wheels to get the best grip
pick-up is carrera, mounted with washers & glue
motor mount is Ninco NC-1 mount, motor is Slot.It 26k, gears by Sigma/MRRC...

Oh, the axles (3,0 mm Sigma/MRRC) have no bearings, the uprights were drilled 3,1 mm so 0,1 mm total clearance is taken up by oil.... runs smooth
:D

Hope that the axle holes stay round though, but the PC board is tough, and then there is some copper on both sides... should take some time to grind through
:D

Jan (who will be mounting the body soon...)
 

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Jan Groosmuller
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834 Posts
QUOTE (Race-Jan @ 3 Apr 2004, 19:22)Jan (who will be mounting the body soon...)
a quick test fit of the body... have to take the windows out and replace them by clear vac forms I think, also make up some interior... but then again, the original body is designed for R/C use, and can take some serious beating

Will be adding lights too...


http://groups.msn.com/hobbyfoto/slotracepr...oto&PhotoID=420

sweet isn't it?

Jan
 

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376 Posts
Jan

outstanding looking car..... thanks for the info on the wheels.... When did you do your testing with the body on??? if not you may need a bit more weight.. the Hard plastic bodies really raise the CG......Testing, testing and more testing will get it running where you want it...... nice job..

Chris....
 

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Jan Groosmuller
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834 Posts
QUOTE (JBriggsK9 @ 4 Apr 2004, 07:29)Jan

outstanding looking car..... thanks for the info on the wheels.... When did you do your testing with the body on??? if not you may need a bit more weight.. the Hard plastic bodies really raise the CG......Testing, testing and more testing will get it running where you want it...... nice job..

Chris....
Chris,

You're welcome

I haven't tested che car with the body on yet as I am thinking of a way to fit the two parts... CG is something I am aware of, but one can lower it with lead


found out that the positioning of the weights is a bit critical on the chassis, but maybe that is because I tested only on my home track (very narrow, and a lot of bends in it... only 2 straights, the rest is curves....
), the club trach I normally race on is a different thing altogether
:D club track

Recently I built a Tamiya 1/24 porsche 935-78 turbo, fitted a White-Point chassis under it and that runs beautifully.... but the car is really low
:D

http://groups.msn.com/hobbyfoto/slotracepr...oto&PhotoID=379

the body is connected to the chassis via L-shaped suspending profiles, really improves the handling


anyway, thanks for the kind words of encouragement...

Jan
 
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