SlotForum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Dennis Samson
Joined
·
807 Posts
How about this for a PCB Chassis design? I'm looking for something I can build quite a few of relatively quickly for a Project I have in mind.

This is the basic design:



The idea is to mount the axle tube and a mounting flange to the motor and then to bolt that assembly to the PCB:



That done, it looks like this:



There will be a central hinge to control the flex attached to the motor mount plate and the central cut-out of the PCB.
Next steps are to attach a guide plate, mount the front wheels and the body mounts. there's space for a bar magnet just ahead of the motor for magnet racing and should be more than enough space for lead if needed.

More pic's to follow.
 

·
Alan Tadd
Joined
·
4,039 Posts
Looks very good Dennis.

I've been playing around with a few designs, using PcB based on a flexing sidewinder layout. As soon as I've built the prototype I'll put some photo's up. It will be for next years World Proxy race.

Chris, Phil, Graham have you decided what we are racing yet?..........

Regards

Alan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
I like PCB chassis a lot and have built many of them in many different configurations, I like the light weight so that you add weight where you want with tuning.

They are very easy to solder to and as long as you don't get them to hot, to separate the copper from the fiberglas they are quite strong and durable.

Very easy material to cut and work with. I mostly use the double sided board as I have a local source that uses it to make electonic circuit boards and has a lot of scraps, I can get for free. I can get it in .063, .093 and .020 that is in thosandths of and inch here in the US.

Not perfect but sure is fun to work with. I love copper and brass


This is one example-

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
376 Posts
Dennis

Very nice clean looking design...... I will be interested to see the rest when done.. and to see what you think of the chassis when you finish it and test it... I like the motor mounting system...

Chris.....
 

·
Dennis Samson
Joined
·
807 Posts
Thanks for the input guys!

I have found one or two "design flaws" now that the chassis is done and running:

First off, with the copper on both sides of the board, when the chassis flexes it does not return to the same position as it was and leaves the chassis "tweaked". So I have removed all the copper that is not needed for soldering (a very time consuming manual operation for me!), and now it's a lot better.

Secondly, even with the anti-decking rail I put in, the magnet still tends to pull the chassis down and the poor little Prof Motor powerplant cannot handle that amount of drag, so I'm thinking that this design is going to be best without magnets and with some weight, or with much lighter magnets than a TSRF or Prof Motor bar magnet.

Some pics of the final results:



 

·
Graham Windle
Joined
·
4,445 Posts
Dennis a thicker anti deck rail or a vertical brass strip soldered onto the back of the present rail may solve the problem as would moving the magnet to a position under the rear axle
 

·
Dennis Samson
Joined
·
807 Posts
Well, this chassis finally got its bodyshell today:

To keep you in suspense a moment, let's start underneath:



A while back I "rescued" a number of old vacforms of unknown origin from a large box in Victor Ferguson's garage. One of these was a Ferrari 350 CanAm which I have always wanted to model, so it now sits atop the PCB Chassis:



I painted from the outside due to the extreme age and yellowness of the plastic, and then added some detail, a scratch built interior (with Fly Classic driver), the obligatory BWA wheels and inserts,etc. Finally a coat of Future and some home made decals to finish it off.



Thanks for looking!
 

·
Phil Kalbfell
Joined
·
3,373 Posts
gascarnut: the simple and easy way to remove the copper is to etch if off. Your local electronics store should have accid and photo resist to do that. You cover the section that you want the copper to remain with resist or acid proof pen and then put the board in a try and cover with the acid and it will etch away the copper.

Alan: I have Emailed Chris today about the class for next year waiting to hear his opinion. I will let all know ASAP.

Phil
 

·
Dennis Samson
Joined
·
807 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys!

Graham - thanks for the idea about putting the magnet under the rear axle - I will try that on the next version of this chassis.

Phil - I knew about the etching (my wife used to be a PCB designer) but by the time I found out that I wanted the copper off the whole chassis was built up and soldered already. Next one will be etched from the start!

Howmet - thanks for the compliments! I've kind of decided that vacforms with decent detail will be my "niche" in scratchbuilding.

I can't help wondering why Russell hasn't commented on the lack of mirrors yet! (in truth I forgot all about them until long after the photos were taken).
 

·
Dennis Samson
Joined
·
807 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
jay,

The first piece of PCB was double sided that I found at Radio Shack - enough for three chassis for $3.99.

Lately I found a bigger piece of single sided PCB at Fry's Electronics for about $6.99 I think that should do about another 8 chassis.

Thanks for the snap Russell and to you and Anthony for the compliments. Did no-one notice that I got the stripes on Chris Amon's helmet the wrong way round? I realised that when looking at some old F-1 photos - the red stripe should be on the left side. Oh well.... what do they say about intentional mistakes in Persian Carpets? I guess I could use the same excu... er reason.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,887 Posts
Dennis - James Garner drove the car which was a F3 based mock up of an F1 but he did enjoy himself and I have a vague memory that he might have gone on to run a racing team in the US following the film.

Actual race footage was added in with a private Lotus team agreeing to respray it's car in the Pete Aron colours and Chris Amon was their driver.

David
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top