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ParrotGod
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am not sure if you are aware of this, but Pendle is selling TA71 bodies and chassis.

You need to go to the Spare Parts section, then select 3D Printed Parts: the TA models are at the bottom of the list.

For those of us that are looking for filling huge holes in GT3 grids, this is a good move from Pendle.

I have ordered 4 already and I am ready to order more.

There are also some LMP/DPI models and classics.

They are also carrying chassis: I have ordered the chassis for the new scalex vantage. They have some for the revoslot 333P.

I am not a big fan of 3DP bodies but hey, if I want to get a Conti MKII or a RC-F on my track this is the only way at the moment.

I am prepared to put in the extra work. Also looking at the excellent work Tamar did on his Conti MKI, it is going to be worth the effort.

Given that this is a brave move for Sean and his team (especially in the middle of a freaking pandemic!), how about showing some love and inundating Pendle with orders for these items? ;-)
 

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I am not sure if you are aware of this, but Pendle is selling TA71 bodies and chassis.
You need to go to the Spare Parts section, then select 3D Printed Parts: the TA models are at the bottom of the list.
For those of us that are looking for filling huge holes in GT3 grids, this is a good move from Pendle.
I have ordered 4 already and I am ready to order more.
There are also some LMP/DPI models and classics.

They are also carrying chassis: I have ordered the chassis for the new scalex vantage. They have some for the revoslot 333P.

I am not a big fan of 3DP bodies but hey, if I want to get a Conti MKII or a RC-F on my track this is the only way at the moment.
I am prepared to put in the extra work. Also looking at the excellent work Tamar did on his Conti MKI, it is going to be worth the effort.

Given that this is a brave move for Sean and his team (especially in the middle of a freaking pandemic!), how about showing some love and inundating Pendle with orders for these items? ;-)
Go go go go! I only have two A71 cars(Porsche Rsr, wrote a post here in S&B section), but I must say I love them, as with all the the 3dp cars, you need to sand and paint, etc, but Im sure you wont get disapointed.

Happy building mate😉👍
 

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ParrotGod
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited by Moderator)
thanks GD Slot.

I will have a look at your post.

EDIT: not able to find it...could you please post a link here?
 

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70quid for a kit with no running gear that should be no more than 25quid I think not.as 2/3 of that list can be had as complete running kits for 45quid
 

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ParrotGod
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Maybe you are right about the 2/3 of the list...but the other 1/3 is the one that I am interested in.
 

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ParrotGod
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Actually, I went over the list. There are 35 different models listed on Pendle and I think only 12 (to the best of my knowledge) could be available in a form or another from other manufactures.

They are definitely not cheap but not available anywhere else for now.
 

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70quid for a kit with no running gear that should be no more than 25quid I think not.as 2/3 of that list can be had as complete running kits for 45quid
As I say to my friends, its slot delicatessen 🤷‍♂
 

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ParrotGod
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There doesn't seem to be a lot of detail partsfor the price.

Cheers,

John
I am not sure that I follow...what kind of details parts do you need?

I have to agree that these kits are not for the average person in the hobby...the price for a body, chassis, interiors is similar to a NSR model (where you get also wheels/tyres, motor, pod, gear, etc.).

If I could get an RC-F or Conti MKII from NSR, Slot.it, sideways, I would get these models from them.

But no one is making these cars. That is the unique aspect of this offering.

Another approach would be to buy toy cars and make them competitive with 3dp chassis and lots of work to reduce weight etc.

Let's take as an example the Ferrari 488. So far only Carrera makes it.

If I have to make this a competitive car - let's say to compete in a DiSCA race - I would need:

- the car: 40 pounds. Using only the body and throwing away the chassis/motor/wheels etc.

- a 3pd chassis: ~10 pounds

- a 3dp wing: ~7 pounds

- light weight interiors: ~7 pounds

Grand total: ~64 pounds

And still I would need to get all running gear.

So it is not a cheap exercise but not that uncommon for hobbyists that want a unique model on the grid.
 

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I am not sure that I follow...what kind of details parts do you need?
I have to agree that these kits are not for the average person in the hobby...the price for a body, chassis, interiors is similar to a NSR model (where you get also wheels/tyres, motor, pod, gear, etc.).
If I could get an RC-F or Conti MKII from NSR, Slot.it, sideways, I would get these models from them.
But no one is making these cars. That is the unique aspect of this offering.

Another approach would be to buy toy cars and make them competitive with 3dp chassis and lots of work to reduce weight etc.
Let's take as an example the Ferrari 488. So far only Carrera makes it.
If I have to make this a competitive car - let's say to compete in a DiSCA race - I would need:
- the car: 40 pounds. Using only the body and throwing away the chassis/motor/wheels etc.
- a 3pd chassis: ~10 pounds
- a 3dp wing: ~7 pounds
- light weight interiors: ~7 pounds
Grand total: ~64 pounds
And still I would need to get all running gear.
So it is not a cheap exercise but not that uncommon for hobbyists that want a unique model on the grid.
Amen to that mate. 👍
 

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John Roche
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I am not sure that I follow...what kind of details parts do you need?
I was looking at the Ferrari 250TR. If I bought a Penelope Pitlane or Pre Add body kit I would get mirrors, fuel caps etc in a kit that was around 65% or the price.

Cheers,

John
 

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Would it be fair to say they are a £100 kit after throwing in paint, guide, motor pod and running gear etc? They look good, much better then Ocar, if had the money, time and build skills I'd like them all.
 

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I've tried there C8.R last year, a good runner too. OK, there is some work to do to achieve a proper finish.I am now working on the Continental Mk2

c8r-7.jpg
 

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Kitbasher
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I've tried there C8.R last year, a good runner too. OK, there is some work to do to achieve a proper finish.I am now working on the Continental Mk2

c8r-7.jpg
Good job Littledanny but it just confirms what I think of 3D print for bodyshells, you cannot polish a t#rd, and that warty skin could be a Toad or a Tu$d but either way it won't do, and no way at those prices...
 
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Indeed, you can do more sanding and polishing, but then your start loosing small details printed on the body.

Besides, the printed plastic is very hard.

Now the photo is not doing the model justice, in real it looks better !
 

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3dp bodies do need a good polish job, but they are way more resistant and lighter than resin mold bodies. As with the traditional resin mold bodies that everybody knows, 3dp kits are not for everybody, as you need (IMH intermediate) some skills to get the propper job done.

If you look at my post on the Flying Lizard Porsches from TA71, you'll find that they were my first 3dp kit and also my first paintjob using airbrush and glossy metal pearl paint. What made the difference? The urethane clear that made a smooth and ultra glossy finish, they are a delight to the eyes just to look at them and very good Racers on the Track.

If I with my mediocre skills can do it, anyone can mates, so dont be afraid of trying.

Cheers

Btw. Love your Vette Danny😍
 

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As far as I can tell these are SLS printed which uses a dry powder process where layers of powder are put down and a laser fuses the pattern before another full payer is spread on top to build up the model.

Article here https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/post-processing-sls-printed-parts/ on finishing SLS prints
Thats right but even with that process the orange peel efect can be seen in the body, so a good sanding, putty(sometimes) , sanding and paint job is required.

3dp resin print is quite different, as the result is a smooth finish, however in the past 3dp resin prints were more fragile and prone to break,nowdays I understand that there are certain resins that will endure racing and that are almost crashproof. Printing bodies in resin will require a large printer though, as they tend to be smaller that the filament printers.

Cheers

Cheers
 
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