SlotForum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Silly question I guess: What is the perfect timing for pressing the lane-changing-button? Is it the moment, the car pases the sensor? Or how long will the signal send by the car last?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,659 Posts
For as long as you have it pressed. I usually press it 2-3 seconds before going over the lane change sensor and release the button as soon as the car has changed lanes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
QUOTE (zarko @ 1 Mar 2012, 10:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>For as long as you have it pressed. I usually press it 2-3 seconds before going over the lane change sensor and release the button as soon as the car has changed lanes.

Same for me, obviously if you were to have a lot of Lane Changers in a row it could be a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
the "perfect time" is when the car (led) passes over the sensor, but probably you will lose several LC until than ;-) ...

So, i suggest that you keep pressing the LC button a "few centimeters" (~1 cars extension) before the LC sensor,
and release after (or during) the lane changing, to avoid a new lane changing if there a another next LC (*)

Note: My track has several XLC on a long...long straight, and sometimes it is difficult to coordinate
the lane changing due to the factor "distance between XLC" vs "speed of cars"... ;-)
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,131 Posts
The sensors only see about 7mm, so your signal has to be before that and the latency of the system is around 30msec, so assume you are travelling at full tilt 4m/s then you need to press the button (4e3*30e-3) + 7/2= 123.5 mm ahead of the sensor, so one straight ahead at full tilt.

If anyone went to Gaydon that is the reason on the fast 4 lane section where I had 5 XLCs in an H formation 2:1:2 (to allow cars to change to whatever lane they wanted) I had a couple of straights inbetween each row of changers. And in practice that is not really enough as you have to be hitting the button with an accuracy of a split second.

So the rule is not about how early you need to press to get operation, but how quick you are at pressing a button - so leave at least half a second inbetween changers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks! I´ll have to practice that a little, and it is a good advice not to add too many LC in a layout.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
239 Posts
Riko, I just did a quick calculation using your formula and I think you have a slight error in your answer!
Your answer was 123.5 mm
when I calculated the given formula I got, wait for it:

1.5571905198164112x10^35mm

To put this into perspective if we divide this number by

9,460,730,472,580,800 which is approximately the distance, in mm, that light travels in on year

we get distance of

1.6459516781811711x10^20 light years before the LC or XLC sensor as being the correct place to press the LC button!

So, using your calculation, we need a really really long straight before each LC or XLC!

Damn that evil Maths Prof!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,131 Posts
Andy knows how to bring me back to earth...


I'll add a few more brackets just for clarity
(((4e3)*(30e-3)) + (7/2))= 123.5
 

·
Living the Life&#33;
Joined
·
11,082 Posts
QUOTE 9,460,730,472,580,800 which is approximately the distance, in mm, that light travels in on year
......... you should really state what model of light are you using; rectilinear propogation (particulate) or wave form to ensure that the maths are reasonable. What allowances have you made for Heisenberg's principle of uncertainty? and for time dilation?? ...... and that's not all ........ the earth's gravitational field varies and is far from uniform with the South coast exhibiting negative values compared to Scotland and exacerbated with the tide and position of the Moon.

God I hate late night call outs ......................
 

·
Damien Straw
Joined
·
562 Posts
Look guys, I hate to say it but you haven't factored in the time it takes to fully depress the button through it's millimeter or so of travel.
Recalculate and get back to us all please.


But, just to be a simpleton about it though, I try to be ready after the previous corner to each LC. I mean, as long as you aren't pressing it at the LC before the one you want to change at it doesn't really matter does it? You soon learn after a few laps that pressing it to late doesn't get results and this teaches you the right timing.

Cheers,
Damo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
More to the point maybe:

Why is the detector so far positioned from the actual lanechanger itself? Did Scaley use the max speed of the fastest Slot it or NSR as a reference for the distance?

I find it very annoying that when you are chasing a car at close range (in his slipstream :) and pressing the LC button to make an overtake on an XLC the other car (in front) changes it's lane with you too!
This is because the car in front has cleared the sensor, but not the lanechange tongue yet... So to make an overtake, you actually have to fall back some to not make the other car change lane as well... (and that loss is just the gain of the other car, as you will most likely end up beside the other car at the beginning of a turn, but not in front.

Unfortunately I have no spare XLCs to cut up (too expensive for just that...) but I think (well I guess actually) that they would still work when they are cut to a length of a single straight, and it would be much more convenient in ones layout (especially in pitlanes...)

Any inputs?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
I just got a digital set set up this weekend and noticed that "feature" right away.

This IMO is where SCX has Scalextric beat. It's ridiculous that when I am trying to pass the car in front of me and change lanes, it causes that car to change lanes too.

How to "fix" this??? Any help would be appreciated. This really disappointed me. But still would have gone with Scalex over SCX... it's just disappointing.

I'd like to fix it.
 

·
Living the Life&#33;
Joined
·
11,082 Posts
then use that feature to your advantage .............. conversely, it means that if you change lane whilst in the lead then your opponent has to follow you. Ergo ...... he can not overtake you ..... result!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
239 Posts
I think this sensor problem should not be too difficult to fix. First you will need to find two suitable XLC replacement sensors, Riko got any similar in size to the replacement PitPro sensor. Turn the XLC over and you will see 4 slots in the track base, between the sensor and flipper, any one of these slots could be a place to mount a sensor. I would choose the closest to the flipper first. Mount the replacement sensor in that slot. Remove the cover plate for the sensor board and solder the new sensor wires in parrallel with with current sensor on the board then cover the board sensor with some tape, effectively turning it off. The replacement sensor should now work to change lanes. Put the sensor cover back on replace the XLC in the track and test. If the sensor is too close to the flipper and does not change in time move the sensor back one slot. It may turn out that its current position is the closest you can get to the flipper for reliable lane changes. But unless you try it you won't find out!
I have used this method of mounting a sensor in a track base slot to repair a PitPro sensor that fell victim to a Slot.it guide, and it was easy and worked well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
239 Posts
I have just done a static position test with two cars on an XLC. It turns out that the only track slot that you could mount a replacement sensor is the third one back from the flipper. The senerio being your car is riding the bumper of the car infront of you. For the flipper to operate the leading car's guide must be past the flipper for the flipper to be able to change lanes and your guide must not have entered the flipper, remembering that your car's guide is infront of the ir emitter. The only track slot that will fit this senerio is the third back from the flipper. If the new sensor is positioned in track slot 4 the lead car's guide will be in the flipper zone, if it is positioned in track slot 1 or 2 then your guide will likely have already entered the flipper zone, so track slots 1,2 and 4 will prevent a lane change under the above senerio. When I race I use riding the bumper and much of the time the lead car changes as well, and I thought it was a case of Great minds think alike!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
This is that time where having the led farther behind the guide helps:

I used to put my led right behind the guide as that helps in drift/slide situations when you come to a lane changer BUT you can then change the lane of the car in fornt of you.

SO, I moved the LED further back and now I can be on the rear bumper of the front car and he won't change lanes and it doesn't really hurt the sliding situation, even no-mag, as I always put a half straight before a lane change
 

·
Damien Straw
Joined
·
562 Posts
Ok here is an idea:

If the LED shines it's little beam out 360 degrees (being dome shaped as it is) and down the slot the sensor will see this beam for quite some distance ahead of and behind the LED, then how about shielding the beam a little? Either paint some black around the sides of the LED so that it shines out directly below only or glue a small circular piece of black plastic around it to 'focus' the beam?

My track isn't set up at present so I can't test the theory but if someone could I'd love to know!

Cheers,
Damien.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top