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QUOTE (frankgoes @ 4 Jun 2011, 23:52) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>indead perfect looking cars but I have a small question, remark

Are there also people racing with these Pioneers? I have a red and white Mustang and without magnet it drives like he...

Sorry but for the looks it's a 9 on 10 but for driving it's a poor 5 on 10 or are there some people who can give some tips and tricks to avoid that they flip each corner.

Already changed some parts but for a car of around 50 euro in Belgium one would expect not to put again 20 euro in a Pioneer to make it better (smaller front tires, ninco prorace guide (on a ninco track)

Thanks

Frank

Im told by an expert that 95% of car sales will only ever be raced with magnets on plastic. As such most cars are built to accommodate this fact. Cold comfort for the other 5% of racers like ourselves.

How much modeling skill you have will dictate how much you are willing to modify the car. In our club, non mag wooden tracks, the Pioneer Mustang won the club T/A championship last year, breaking the Scaly strangle hold. So the car can be made to go real well.

There is nothing wrong with the guide, I use the 7mm Pioneer guide for club racing. The problem is the front axle set height. Set this height up specific for your track. Grind away the front axle stays so that the bearings are able to move freely up and down. If you have the loose fit bearings replace with some old scaly bearings. You want a small amount of slop but not too much. Place car on the track. Place a small folded piece of paper under each wheel. This will give you about 0.2mm clearance once the paper is removed. Place the equivalent bodyweight (32g) in the chassis so that it sits correctly with the body removed. Hot glue (or superglue) the bearings in place when the tyres are resting on the paper. Coat the front tyre tread face in superglue and buff smooth.

After you have done this take the car for a run. What does it do at the limit? Spin out, or roll over. If it rolls over place lead down low in the car. Remove the motor. Carefully cut away the venting hole slats so that you have one large square hole under the motor. Replace motor. Place a square piece of lead under the motor. Does it still roll over? Add a square of lead just in front of the motor on the inside of the chassis. Lossening the body screws to allow for body rock will also help. Remove the two central screws and just use the 4 outer screws. You may need to trim the chassis/body to achieve free body movement.

cheers
rick1776
 

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Hey Timkoul,

Long time no see. Try some Paul Gage or MJK Engineering urethane tyres on the Mustang. You should see a big improvement. Drop that front end as well by relocating the front axle or buffing the tyres down to 18.5mm. Then coat with superglue.

What you racing in the SCITCC proxy? Ive got a Ninco BMW M3 all lined up with a super secret powerplant fitted. Lets hope it all works out.

cheers
rick1776
 

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QUOTE (panhardfan @ 10 Jul 2011, 19:30) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Last friday at my clubs new MDF/copper track I raced my notchback Mustang in our "historic" category.
A well set-up Scaly Camaro is the car to beat in the hands of a good driver/top tuner,so I got somewhat hammered , but I enjoyed using the car & will do so again even though I know my own orange Scaly Cam is a safe bet for a higher placing.
The Pioneer motor seems a tad short of power down a long straight,& the car is a little taller than the Scalextric car,but I,ve set my notchback up quite well & it will be raced again .
I look forward to the "tube-frame" cars, WHEN WHEN ? (Please)

The motor has enough power, it just lacks rpm. You really need to use a 13T pinion. The motor comes to life with this ratio, 13/36 = 2.81. The latest Pioneer releases will have an optional 13T pinion come with the car in the spares poly bag. So even the most anal club rules that dont allow ratio changes should be catered for as it comes as a factory fitted option.

Buff the front tyres down to 18.5mm and extend the front track by 4-5mm. This also drops the front end by about 0.75mm as well. The rear track can be extended by 4mm if you carefully roll the guards. Even leaving the guards stock you can extend the rear track by 1mm.

In our club the Pioneer in now THE car to beat in our TransAm class.
 

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QUOTE (Saviour @ 12 Jul 2011, 13:36) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>2.769, ITYWF
36/13 = 2.769230769231
to get 2.81 you would need 10/28 or 12/34

Why is Europe is so much financial trouble?? Need more like you to help bail it out.
Yes its a combination of half typo and half genuine error. I run 12/34T = 2.83 combo, and others run 13/36T = 2.77 combo, in our club. Lets split the diff and call it 2.80.

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rick1776
 

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QUOTE (highbarn @ 12 Jul 2011, 07:03) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Can you tell me how you do this?

You need a soldering iron. Do not use the tip as it is too hot!! Use the barrel of the soldering iron. Gently press the barrel along the inside lip of the guard and sweep in an arc back and forth about 3 or 4 times and then let cool. Repeat until the guard has been rolled enough to allow the tyre/rim combo to clear the guard. Practice this on an old car until you are confindent you can do it well. Done badly you will end up with a molten mess. Done well you will be hard pressed telling the diffrenence.

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rick1776
 

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You need to PM Jules and tell him at least 6 of his car bodies are faulty and need replacement. Just show him the dodgy rear guards that look like theyve been attacked with a soldering iron
and plead innocent. Must have been a bad batch.
By the time you get to the second set of 6 bodies you'll have the technique down pat.

cheers
rick1776
 

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No I probably wont defend the title. You guys have lifted the bar too much even in the last 6 months that Ive taking extended leave of absence. I think Trev will take a power of beating in that SCX Cuda of his. Come on up to 1/24th and race in the T/A championship. Hanging onto second place by the skin of my teeth. Mark's Camaro is way too good and too far in front. If I hang onto second I'll be happy.

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rick1776
 
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