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QUOTE (AAWSCC @ 22 May 2011, 21:58) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Which track would that be then Choc ice? And who did you buy it from?
*cough* I couldn't say


The track was very well designed, some great corners and a huge straight for those of us without any finesse. The tight corners really showed how well the Pioneer cars drive; very stable and easy to control when you hoof it.

The most surprising thing was how much grip there was, my first time on a non-plastic track and I was very impressed. Once Pioneer get busy with a big orange car, you can change the scenery to include the Duke farm, the Boar's Nest and a massive ravine
 

· Tel
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4,395 Posts
I love the street muscle look, and the cherry red and blue look great too


As regards the planned Camaro, From circuitstoscale:
"The wheel track is a few hairs wider than the Mustangs. I expect they will run well together, using same motor and running gear."

Hopefully around 5mm wider track a little lower body and a little less weight than the stangs
If you need a test driver to try out the proto Camaro's in a club enviroment Jules, I'll gladly volunteer
 

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'Ace of Spades' is just out of this world! The photos don't do it justice... The matte finish is just perfect.

'Lady Luck' - you're next
 

· Tel
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QUOTE (rick1776 @ 24 May 2011, 13:07) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The name of that car is a NSR Clio.


cheers
rick1776

Or a Scalextric Camaro ....
 

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indead perfect looking cars but I have a small question, remark

Are there also people racing with these Pioneers? I have a red and white Mustang and without magnet it drives like he...

Sorry but for the looks it's a 9 on 10 but for driving it's a poor 5 on 10 or are there some people who can give some tips and tricks to avoid that they flip each corner.

Already changed some parts but for a car of around 50 euro in Belgium one would expect not to put again 20 euro in a Pioneer to make it better (smaller front tires, ninco prorace guide (on a ninco track)

Thanks

Frank
 

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Superb photos bleep, very nicely done.

That is a 4 coat paint job, DJ. We did call it Cherry Red Metallic originally, but it is verging on Kandy Apple that's for sure.

frankgoes: What can I say? We ran 1000's of laps on NINCO track - with the magnet in! NINCO has a high power rail. We choose the original tyre size and front axle play so that it would perform OK on this track. NINCO is also more grippy than other plastic tracks. There is a tendency for the front tyres to grip tight in a corner encouraging a flip over.

You say you have swapped out the front tyres and the guide. How does this compare to the standard parts as fitted originally? Was it even worst than you say before you made the change?

Do you have a comparable model (saloon car) from another maker that makes it around the corners on a NINCO track when you take the magnet out? I'd be very keen to know which ones are OK.

The other thing to consider is that the standard motor is quite a high torque version. If you want to run without magnets, there is a milder version of the TYPHOON motor (the 18k LT) that does not kick like the standard 18k SS motor.

Cheers

Jules
 

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I am in the fortunate position to be able to get all three new releases, and interestingly they all behave differently.

In all cases they didn't run smoothly for around 30 laps, but once the rears started to true up they ran really well.

This lot of dodges I'm really happy with, great handling, good power and great looks. The only problem i see is I'm too scared to really drive the red one properly!
 

· One petunia in a field of onions
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6,433 Posts
QUOTE (frankgoes @ 5 Jun 2011, 08:52) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>indead perfect looking cars but I have a small question, remark

Are there also people racing with these Pioneers? I have a red and white Mustang and without magnet it drives like he...

Sorry but for the looks it's a 9 on 10 but for driving it's a poor 5 on 10 or are there some people who can give some tips and tricks to avoid that they flip each corner.

Already changed some parts but for a car of around 50 euro in Belgium one would expect not to put again 20 euro in a Pioneer to make it better (smaller front tires, ninco prorace guide (on a ninco track)

Thanks

Frank

Frank, because of the shape of the Mustang which is quite high for the width it does react well to a little weight under the chassis. I added about 5g of lead as a flat sheet directly below the motor so that the rear of the sheet is level with the rear axle. And drop the front a smidge with a slightly lower profile front tyre. Now handles like a dream and couldn't knock it out of the slot with a missile.

Thanks go to Rick1776 for the tip.
 

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QUOTE (frankgoes @ 4 Jun 2011, 23:52) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>indead perfect looking cars but I have a small question, remark

Are there also people racing with these Pioneers? I have a red and white Mustang and without magnet it drives like he...

Sorry but for the looks it's a 9 on 10 but for driving it's a poor 5 on 10 or are there some people who can give some tips and tricks to avoid that they flip each corner.

Already changed some parts but for a car of around 50 euro in Belgium one would expect not to put again 20 euro in a Pioneer to make it better (smaller front tires, ninco prorace guide (on a ninco track)

Thanks

Frank

Im told by an expert that 95% of car sales will only ever be raced with magnets on plastic. As such most cars are built to accommodate this fact. Cold comfort for the other 5% of racers like ourselves.

How much modeling skill you have will dictate how much you are willing to modify the car. In our club, non mag wooden tracks, the Pioneer Mustang won the club T/A championship last year, breaking the Scaly strangle hold. So the car can be made to go real well.

There is nothing wrong with the guide, I use the 7mm Pioneer guide for club racing. The problem is the front axle set height. Set this height up specific for your track. Grind away the front axle stays so that the bearings are able to move freely up and down. If you have the loose fit bearings replace with some old scaly bearings. You want a small amount of slop but not too much. Place car on the track. Place a small folded piece of paper under each wheel. This will give you about 0.2mm clearance once the paper is removed. Place the equivalent bodyweight (32g) in the chassis so that it sits correctly with the body removed. Hot glue (or superglue) the bearings in place when the tyres are resting on the paper. Coat the front tyre tread face in superglue and buff smooth.

After you have done this take the car for a run. What does it do at the limit? Spin out, or roll over. If it rolls over place lead down low in the car. Remove the motor. Carefully cut away the venting hole slats so that you have one large square hole under the motor. Replace motor. Place a square piece of lead under the motor. Does it still roll over? Add a square of lead just in front of the motor on the inside of the chassis. Lossening the body screws to allow for body rock will also help. Remove the two central screws and just use the 4 outer screws. You may need to trim the chassis/body to achieve free body movement.

cheers
rick1776
 

· Martin De Ath
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1,408 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Excellent photos Ian..

The "Street Racer" Diner/Garage setting looks perfect.

The new Pioneer cars look so good, cant wait to see what Jules has up his sleeve next


All the best.. Martin.
 

· Tel
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4,395 Posts
Stop tempting me Ian !
Great garage diaorama, looks spot on that does


.... now off to try and persuade the good lady I need one of these ..... but if I succeed, which one should it be ??
 
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