[MANIMMAL]

That mercedes tho, want!. I'd love to do the Tamiya c class dtm in d2 livery, hopefully they'll re release it at some point as they did the 155 alfa.

 

[GRUNZ]

one thing that I have noticed with 1/24 kits is that they get sold out pretty quickly.

 

[pslot]

hi Manimal
the D2 is a Fujimi (you probably recognised it)
very low detail compared to the Tamiya version.

Grunz
Tamiya dont seem to make many really interesting 1/24 at the moment
you have to pay through the nose to get any of the older decent kits
like the JGTC NSX/Skyline. DTM 190 or DTM Alfa

Fujimi kits are very reasonably priced if you buy from Plaza Japan
Nunu are a new manufacturer ( I think they are Aoshima)
also not too badly priced
Revell seem to have bought some Fujimi moulds which they are reissuing
right now (just about to release 917K)

but its a "get them while you can" situation ... and put them away until you get time to build.

 

[MANIMMAL]

I have the Tamiya kit which I built almost 25 years ago, these days it’s incomplete thus unsuitable. I did consider the unliveried c classe but decided against it.
I seem to have gravitated towards Beemax/Nunu kits, Tamiya with a hint of Fujimi and Hasegawa. I think earlier in the thread I incorrectly labelled by Taisan r32 as a Fujimi, it’s Hasegawa. The Raybrig was new second hand through eBay, maybe $60 aud, not cheap but not crazy. I find the Nunu kits to be rather large but visually scaled beautifully. Postage from Plaza Japan is around $80+ aid per kit at the moment, it restrictive. Pre pandemic most of my kits came from there, the kids used to love it as the staff at Plaza Japan would include a little eraser shaped like a geisha, panda or something else very cutesy Japanesey.

 

[MANIMMAL]

Tamiya 993 Team Taisan.

Classic example of why you should choose your clear coat wisely. This was built in March 2020 at the start of lockdown one so Tamiya clear coat was less common than rocking horse droppings. In hindsight I should have waited.

My ferocious gaurd rat watches on in the distance...

 

[Trisha]

Got a feeling that there's room in the market for a new, simple, adjustable chassis for 1:24-scale kits. Difficult to ignore this increasingly popular scale in plastic car kits.

 

[pslot]

Manimal
i use MR Hobby for clear cote
ive never had an issue with it
in the UK its feast or famine for that product ... when i see it i buy 6 cans ...
then nobody has it in stock for a few months
Tamiya clear is readily available over here but i never could get on with it [tamiya] ... it was too hot for the decals.
Is there some sort of trick i missed with the tamiya ?

 

[MANIMMAL]

I always start with a mist coat. I'll keep an eye of for my hobby clear for future builds.

 

[GRUNZ]

Grunz
Tamiya dont seem to make many really interesting 1/24 at the moment
you have to pay through the nose to get any of the older decent kits
like the JGTC NSX/Skyline. DTM 190 or DTM Alfa

I have made an order from Plaza Japan: their prices are really low when compared to other places.
But it is annoying that the fast majority of their listings are sold out...you have to sort through pages and pages of sold out items.
I have bought some Nunu kits mainly modern GT racing cars (M6, M8, and R8).

 

[GRUNZ]

To be honest, I do not remember when was the last time I had an issue with Tamiya clear....but for sure I do not go very heavy with my clear coats.

 

[pslot]

you get the option of looking at "in stock" only
on the left hand side towards the bottom of the list

 

[pslot]

Hi Manimal
I struggle to get as much of the interior as you do into my 1/24 builds.
been looking at some of your builds earlier in the thread
It looks like you build the whole interior then get it to
sit on top of the chassis at the right height
You drill holes in the built interior to get the spring and suspension pillar (1900 series)
to go through the interior and not spoil the height of the interior.
Then build up plasticard to cover those so you cant see them.

Is that right ?

Can you show pics of some of the interiors top and bottom (without body on)

thanks
Peter

 

[MANIMMAL]

I'll get you some shots.

The biggest clearances to manage are the suspension pillar you mentioned, the movement limiters for the aft section, and the strain control unit. Lots of cutting, shaving and fine tuning to get it right, presenting the interior to the chassis over and over until i'm satisfied i can get both static clearance and chassis movement when underway. In a few cases i didn't take into considerarion the glass in the interior and had to modify what i'd already spend two days modifying. I normally do this as the first step in the build before any glue or paint is used.
Where i can i hide the holes with styrene sheet; not so much the suspension nylocks but everywhere else.
On some i do cut the entire bottom out of the interior and replace with styrene sheet higher up, but doing that messes up the mounting points for everything that attaches to the floor.

 

[MANIMMAL]

This is the Starion. Quite a large opening cut for the motor and spur gear, yet only a skilled anorak would notice from above. I left the other apertures open and from outside looking in you’re hard pressed to tell it’s modified for slot car use

See what I mean? In this shot you can make out thr red lead wire and the side of the strain control unit.

 

[MANIMMAL]

Most of the cars do not relinquish their interiors willingly so the Hakasuka agreed to be my model here.

Clothes on

Clothes off

Above. The seats hide the suspension nylocks on this one. Between the seats you see a basic styrene cover made from a couple of pieces, it goes almost all the way to the parcel shelf.

Underneath. It’s grubby but you know, I do use them! The cut outs are pretty clear here as I see no need to clean up cuts underneath that aren’t spot on if nobody will ever see them (he says whilst sharing an image for all who may be interested…) the suspension holes are oversize as a got my initial positioning wrong.

On other builds I have filled these small voids, just not in this one as I considered it unnecessary. The Hakasuka build was done in 5 days so there are signs of being over eager throughout.

This is not the most technical interior example, although it does give you an idea. The issue is showing the interior from above as once the body mounts are fitted so often the only way to remove the interior is to cut the body mounts out.

 

[MANIMMAL]

This is the m6. She uses the 1900s chassis so more clearance required towards the centre for various suspension gubbins. The spur gear side also got tubbed, this way I could hide the spur gear next to the wheel arch. The boss for the spur gear fouled so I was forced to add an additional ‘speed lump’.

I tried but I can’t get in to show it clearly. Note the cage is very close to the inner wheel arch screen left, screen right is stock. The hole screen right is where a shock once lived, it’s gone now…

 

[MANIMMAL]

After an 8 month hiatus this. Why? My first 1/1 car is why. Here in Australia a Nissan U12 Pintara, everywhere else a Bluebird. Mine was a 1991 2.0 manual ‘gli’ which meant no power windows, air con or cruise control. I paid 13k, spent $12k making it go faster and look good and sold it after two years for $11.5k and got a then new N15ii Pulsar sss. Of all my friends I was the only one who sold their first car - all my mates had big crap holdens and fords that go fast but don’t stop or turn. My Nissan 4 banger went faster, handled better and stopped better, especially once I was done wasting my Navy wage on it. As such my friends hit other cars, trees, fences or roundabouts.

Even fitted with authentic girlfriend/wife

 

[MANIMMAL]

 

[MANIMMAL]

 

[MANIMMAL]

This was the late 90’s, and as I didn’t own a camera at the time very few photos of the 1:1 exist. Friends I still have from then are pretty impressed anyway, other than the real car have 15 inch 8 spoke wheels vs the 1/24 have 16 inch 6 spoke it’s pretty accurate, right down to red Saas steering wheel and Benetton coloured gear knob. No Pioneer 6x9’s on the parcel shelf though…