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This is a how-to thread to convert the 2023 release Scalextric Lotus 97T into a Policar racer.
It will NOT help convert the older, original Scalextric Lotus 97T.
The chassis can be purchased here:
www.shapeways.com
The chassis should either be purchased in black (whihc does sadly cost more) or painted matt or semi-matt black before assembly.
You will also need:
1. A Donor Scalextric Car (e.g. C4234)
2. A Policar 'wide' style gearbox (e.g. PCH03-51z17).
3. You will also need some rear wheels and tyres.
There are several combinations. The design diameter of the finished tyre is around 19.5-20mm although 20.5-21mm will also work.
Two examples:
NSR wheels 5026 with NSR tyres 5285 (19.5x13mm Ultragrip)
Pendle Slot racing wheels PCS-32131114 with Pendle Slot racing tyres PCS-321413t (21mm diameter until trued and glued)
4. A Guide - I recommend SICH85 from Slot.it.
5. Braid and wire are free choice.
Build Process:
Undo the 4 mounting screws to separate the body from the chassis. Pull the rear wing upwards to separate it from the chassis and retain the wing and small rear gearbox cover part.
For reasons that I cannot guess Scalextric have made the front lower suspension as part of the chassis and this cannot be easily disassembled from the body without bending the lower wishbones. As these are not needed don't worry if they are damaged in disassembly but DO NOT damage the front wing or upper suspension detail as that will be retained.
Discard / recycle the chassis.
Trim the link bar across the back of the bodywork. It shouldn't need to be fully cut through. As the plastic weld became detached when I did this I added a little glue to bond the two body parts together after trimming.
Trim the bottom of the driver and plastic tongue as shown to clear the forward part of the motor mount. Use one of the body screws to screw the two parts of the body together behind the driver.
Mount the motor mount into the chassis. The rear of the motor mount needs to be cut off behind the bulkhead that sits just behind the rear spur. (See also photos below for this cut position).
The water pipe detail needs cutting off the side of the motor mount so that it fits into the chassis.
Ensure everything fits snug and trim off any burrs etc. if necessary to get it flat. The motor mount is designed to sit 0.5mm below the bottom of the chassis on the underside.
I was using a Monoposto motor mount here but later cut off all that wire and plug as it was unnecessary.
Once EVERYTHING is ready the chassis should now be mounted onto the body. Due to the need to bend the front wishbones do try to get as much done as possible to reduce the number of occasions that you need to assemble / disassemble! I have done it 3 or 4 times and the 3D printed material is very tough but even so do be careful in the process...
I pushed one wishbone under the wing carrier and then moved that as far up as possible and slithglty rotating the chassis I then bent the wishbone under the other side.
BE CAREFUL!!!! The photo below is after the first wishbone goes under...
Now screw the bodv on with 3 mounting holes.
The rear of the model has been modified since I took my prototype photos with suspension detail having been added. The following shots will therefore look different on your model.
Here we can see the motor mount cut behind the bulkhead.
The little gearbox cover part seen below needs trimming because the little 'hooks' at the front of it will not fit the final model design with suspension detail.
See further photo below to show where they should be cut off.
Part cut piece, shown below - both of these little 'hooks' need trimming off:
Once the rear gearbox cover fits, dry fit the rear wing and then remove the rear wing and glue on the rear gearbox cover.
The rear wing needs a small notch cut out of its front as shown below so that it doesn't hit the bulkhead on the motor mount. Please note this is not a cut right at the bottom but on the next step up so look very carefully before cutting...
All done!
Go and enjoy racing this spectacular car!
Andi
It will NOT help convert the older, original Scalextric Lotus 97T.
The chassis can be purchased here:

ARCO by conti_rowland - Shapeways Shops
Creating Slot Car products compatible with the Policar Grand Prix gearbox brand.
The chassis should either be purchased in black (whihc does sadly cost more) or painted matt or semi-matt black before assembly.
You will also need:
1. A Donor Scalextric Car (e.g. C4234)
2. A Policar 'wide' style gearbox (e.g. PCH03-51z17).
3. You will also need some rear wheels and tyres.
There are several combinations. The design diameter of the finished tyre is around 19.5-20mm although 20.5-21mm will also work.
Two examples:
NSR wheels 5026 with NSR tyres 5285 (19.5x13mm Ultragrip)
Pendle Slot racing wheels PCS-32131114 with Pendle Slot racing tyres PCS-321413t (21mm diameter until trued and glued)
4. A Guide - I recommend SICH85 from Slot.it.
5. Braid and wire are free choice.
Build Process:
Undo the 4 mounting screws to separate the body from the chassis. Pull the rear wing upwards to separate it from the chassis and retain the wing and small rear gearbox cover part.
For reasons that I cannot guess Scalextric have made the front lower suspension as part of the chassis and this cannot be easily disassembled from the body without bending the lower wishbones. As these are not needed don't worry if they are damaged in disassembly but DO NOT damage the front wing or upper suspension detail as that will be retained.
Discard / recycle the chassis.
Trim the link bar across the back of the bodywork. It shouldn't need to be fully cut through. As the plastic weld became detached when I did this I added a little glue to bond the two body parts together after trimming.
Trim the bottom of the driver and plastic tongue as shown to clear the forward part of the motor mount. Use one of the body screws to screw the two parts of the body together behind the driver.
Mount the motor mount into the chassis. The rear of the motor mount needs to be cut off behind the bulkhead that sits just behind the rear spur. (See also photos below for this cut position).
The water pipe detail needs cutting off the side of the motor mount so that it fits into the chassis.
Ensure everything fits snug and trim off any burrs etc. if necessary to get it flat. The motor mount is designed to sit 0.5mm below the bottom of the chassis on the underside.
I was using a Monoposto motor mount here but later cut off all that wire and plug as it was unnecessary.
Once EVERYTHING is ready the chassis should now be mounted onto the body. Due to the need to bend the front wishbones do try to get as much done as possible to reduce the number of occasions that you need to assemble / disassemble! I have done it 3 or 4 times and the 3D printed material is very tough but even so do be careful in the process...
I pushed one wishbone under the wing carrier and then moved that as far up as possible and slithglty rotating the chassis I then bent the wishbone under the other side.
BE CAREFUL!!!! The photo below is after the first wishbone goes under...
Now screw the bodv on with 3 mounting holes.
The rear of the model has been modified since I took my prototype photos with suspension detail having been added. The following shots will therefore look different on your model.
Here we can see the motor mount cut behind the bulkhead.
The little gearbox cover part seen below needs trimming because the little 'hooks' at the front of it will not fit the final model design with suspension detail.
See further photo below to show where they should be cut off.
Part cut piece, shown below - both of these little 'hooks' need trimming off:
Once the rear gearbox cover fits, dry fit the rear wing and then remove the rear wing and glue on the rear gearbox cover.
The rear wing needs a small notch cut out of its front as shown below so that it doesn't hit the bulkhead on the motor mount. Please note this is not a cut right at the bottom but on the next step up so look very carefully before cutting...
All done!
Go and enjoy racing this spectacular car!
Andi