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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have got a problem. After kicking the Pit pro (accidentaly) and mending it a problem that had just occourd that was being hinted at a time ago came to the fore. The new track has a possibility to come ino the pits faster. Cars with unscratched LED's work flawlessly. Slightly scratcjhed are OK. Badley scratched (SLOT.IT cars with scaley chips have got heavily scratched beacuse I forgot that the mag suspension lets them drop lower) don't register but do register on th e LC's. So any idea what to polish the LED surface with to get better transmission or is ther a replacement LED I can fit? PS a quick check pushing down on the car gets the Pit pro to detect them and as there is NO problem on undamaged LED's the problem is the LED as the sinal will be closer if nerer the sensor.
 

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Living the Life!
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I would try a cutting compound such as T-Cut or maybe toothpaste. You may need to use a very fine emery paper first to remove the deepest grooves.

If you need to drill a hole for an LED do not use a 3mm bit as recommended by Scalextric. I use an imperial sized one that measures 2.8mm and the hole this makes provides a great interference fit it for the LED. The extra advantage is that the LED only just protrudes the chassis.
 

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QUOTE (GregK @ 28 Sep 2012, 15:31) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I would try a cutting compound such as T-Cut or maybe toothpaste. You may need to use a very fine emery paper first to remove the deepest grooves.

If you need to drill a hole for an LED do not use a 3mm bit as recommended by Scalextric. I use an imperial sized one that measures 2.8mm and the hole this makes provides a great interference fit it for the LED. The extra advantage is that the LED only just protrudes the chassis.


That would be 7/64ths or you could use 2.8mm as drilles come in increments of 0.1mm


Thanks for the tip I would have used 3mm!
 

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Circuit Owner
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I drill a 3mm hole in 3mm or 4mm of styrene (depending on chassis thickness) and a 2.8mm hole in the chassis. I glue the styrene block into the chassis. The LED then push fits into the block and is prevented from protruding below the chassis. The push fit is good enough not to need gluing (if it is loose I use a little blu tack on top of the LED) - it means I can remove the LED easily in the future either to replace it or move it to another car. This is the single seater chip I am talking about.
 

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Cetem jewellers rouge. The absolute canine reproductive organs of polishes. Link to follow - I hope.

**EDIT** ok, you'll have to ring CETEM direct in Grimsby, as their site is dire - or google for jeweller's rouge. The bars are used by coating a flap wheel or mop and using your dremmel or drill, the powerd can be made into a paste and applied by muslin or similair. Top nothc stuff, used it to clean my visors/goggles/fairing screens on various racing bikes. It was the only thing I could get a satisfactory optically clear finish with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What we found was Jewelers Rouge creates a lovely clear surface, First attempt was to polish the surface flat and have it level with the chasis to avoid any possible further problem. BAD news this failed miserably. No improvement on Pit Pro at all. Still worked in the LC's and powerbase lap counting. Round 2, re-shape to a dome, polish using "Brasso" as its more difficult to polish a dome. Re set with LED just pokeing out as in the instruction book, SUCCESS faultless performance with Pit Pro. So the only solution is re-shape and polish. Thanks for the help.
 

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So is it the angle of the light to the sensors which causes the problem with PitPro (hence, the Dremel solution) or the brightness of the LED (hence, polishing the LED lens), or something else?

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well,
More words of warning. I finaly tracked the cuase down as the LED was getting dammaged again!. Turns out the front axle is wearing away the mounting big time. My 962's chassis are old and do not have grub screw ajustment so it looks like new chassis are required. This is proably a digital issue as our cars have proably done a lot of time, possibly over 50 to 100 hours running each as they run 3 hrs a week most weeks. Alternative ideas welcome.
 

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Circuit Owner
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YOur LED has to be flush with the chassis - that way the chassis takes the damage and not the LED.

If this means the LED is too far off the ground and you cannot lower the chassi - you could get a strip of styrene and glue it to the underside of the chassis and fit the LED flush to that. A bit like the plank of wood under F1 cars.

I find with some of my cars (without suspension) that there are scrape marks along the bottom of the chassis even when there is 3mm-4mm of ground clearance - the undulations of Sport track I guess.
 

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hi
i have one car wich is a mc12 and as standard the chassis mounts for the led allow it to sit under flush,this works great for the xlc and the powerbase.

It would not count on pitpro or a clc wich has been altered to act as a pit entrance.

So gringing the posts down a bit to allow the led to protrude by appprox 1mm has fixed this for good.

The led does exit very close to the end of the guide flag on this car though so it may have been masked a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Pit pro seems to need the LED in the Scaley defined position protruding from the chassis by about 1mm. While I could put scrapers on the chassis that is not Ideal. The front wheels are supposed to take load when cornering. The fact they have worn their posts indicates thay have been doing their job. While not trying to be excessive, extra drag in digital is extra "fuel" so in not an ideal solution. Therfore I have opted for the new replacement chasis with ajustable ride height and front axle bearings. This may be a problem for analouge but is proably more sever for digital as you get much more driving in. Imagine a 6 lane digital, you would manage to get 18 plus drivers and they would all drive for hours not the typical few minutes. Digital has unexpected complications.
The SLOT.IT chip (I have 1 car with it) does not have this issue. Presuably its a much higer power LED . However its a lot more expensive and worthless too me as I don't use the extra amperage available. The chassis is getting worn so all the chassis will need replaceing unless anybody has a quick fix.
 

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Greg Gaub
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There are many ways for analog users to get that kind of wear. It might very well be why slot.it have introduced the changes to the chassis you're getting. In any case, it sounds like a good solution.
 
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