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Premium Member
5,372 Posts
Hi Elicend,

From what I read and see in your story, this chassis appears to have been used by someone prior to being sold to you, and the wheels, tires and gears are not TSRF items. I would just let our own customers defend the product as they kindly did above, but would like to correct some of the declarations in your story.

1/ You write in your story that the adverstising for the chassis claims that it is 100% compatible with Scalextric track. In fact, this is what it clearly says:

"TSRF 1/32-Scale Home-Racing Chassis in Ready-to-Race or Kit form:
For Use on Carrera, Scalextric "Sport", Ninco, Revell and other fine plastic tracks
Not recommended for Scalextric "Classic" and tracks with shallow or very narrow slots. Traction magnet use recommended." You may find this clearly posted HERE and on the instructions inside the packaging (assuming that it retained its original packaging).

2/ I have no idea what wheels and tires are on this kit, so I cannot give any advice about traction. However, on a Carrera track, we use the Ortmann Classic (and soon the specifically-designed Ortmann/TSRF tires) over the original nylon wheels, with no magnets or traction magnets (either way) with total satisfaction, and have hardly any of the problems you describe. However, most of the problems you so describe appear to denote an improper controller, either too fast or too slow. It appears that it is unable to use the full range of the power curve of the motor, causing brutal de-slotting. We recommend the use of a universal ELECTRONIC (and not analog) controller such as a Professor Motor ($47.95 in the USA). This type of controller will adapt perfectly to the power curve of the TSRF motor. This is assuming that your car IS fitted with a TSRF motor... it should say so in black letters on the nose of the can. Also what condition is the motor in, new? Used?

Now for the body mounting: the kit you obtained appears to be missing quite a few bits, like the mounting system by PINS recommended when body sides are curved. Please have a look to the Porsche 908 below using the same body, and which took only minutes to be assembled by... a GIRL. Please note that no trimming of the chassis pan is necessary for the car to function, however she did this for pure aesthetics once the car was finished.
Adjusting the wheelbase is a simple affair of chosing the correct position, and indeed, sometimes any of the nine combinations may not quite fit excatly a given car. But there is never more than 1mm adjustment to be made to a fender well on a given body, which we do with a Dremel drum if required. In this case it was not necessary.
The driver's compartment needs to be shaved a bit to free the chassis which is designed to move freely from the steel pan and MUST be totally FLUSH with it (check this with the car upside down, the plastic chassis must rest totally flat on the steel pan and be able to mode laterally with no interference). It appears that you failed to seize this important feature as you question this in your story, claiming that the assembly is "sloppy". This is in complete ignorance of 35 years of pro-racing progress...
If the cockpit is not shaved, the plastic chassis will bind against it. Also the cockpit and engine detail need some trimming to clear the motor for the same reason. If this is not done, the motor will bind against the plastic detailing, causing the chassis to be pushed down and the car to handle like a fright pig.

We demonstrated this very car (once decorated and detailed) at the Chicago Hobby Show, and over 100 visitors drove it (including the design VP of Ninco who wanted to take it home) with and without traction magnets on a small Carrera layout, and it ran rather well.

Reading the clear and precise instructions supplied with the kit would of course, help to set it for a Scalextric Classic track, like shortening the guide or adjusting the braided contacts for the specific needs of this 45-year old track design. But if the instructions were also missing in this peculiar and apparenly modified kit, what can be said indeed. Now the packaging of the TSRF chassis contains all necessary parts, and you may have done better by obtaining one from Ann' Modelism in Paris, the distributor for France. Mondialtec is not a TSRF distributor OR retailer. So where indeed did they get this particular kit???
Did this kit come in a brown paper bag by any chance?
Kind regards,

Dok Pea

Premium Member
5,372 Posts
QUOTE i don't want to destroy the Tsrf if mine is not a real one ! but i bought this one more than 60€ and i don't like the traking result so i going to say it is ok

Hi Elicend,
There is no question of questioning the problems you have. No one is happy when purchasing a car for E60.00 and it does not work properly. Now the price does not surprise me: the standard RTR home-racing chassis sells in the USA for $46.00 or E35.00. However, the Club-Racing chassis with aluminum wheels, sponge tires and aluminum spur gear sells for $64.95 or E48.00. The suggested retail of this chassis once imported in Europe and after transportation and duty have been paid is E78.00, as both the distributor and retailer need to make a profit. So maybe it was not such a bad deal, IF... (see below).

QUOTE i'm using it without the magnet."

No problem with this, the car is designed to run with or without magnet.

QUOTE For my controler, it's electronical modified Parma : i didn't have any problem with it, and i'm used to race with Scalex, ninco, fly, other plastic cars, Parma Flexi2 (16D motors), cheetah motors, and X12 motors.... the problem doesn't come from my controler.

The characteristics of the results you obtained made me question the type of controller used, now we have eliminated this possiblity as the Parma electronic functions perfectly.

QUOTE then, i'd like some more details...
here is a picture of the front of my packaging... no more specifications

Yes indeed, and it says on the back:
"Failure to follow instructions may cause improper function and poor performance..." and refers to the instructions enclosed on the package. In this the first line reads: "PLEASE READ INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE USE" and refers you to the website assembly page.

In there, and very visibly, it says "NOTE: The guide blade may need shortening if used on tracks with shallow slot, such as older Scalextric "Classic" or SCX tracks. The blade may also be trimmed on its span to allow the chassis a greater sliding angle so as not to bind and cause the car to lock itself in the slot under extreme conditions. The stock blade supplied in the 1/32 cars is designed for Carrera and Scalextric "Sport" track, while the blade in the 1/24 cars and ALL "Club" kits is longer for commercial wood tracks and MUST be shortened for use on ANY plastic track."

QUOTE here are 2 pictures of the chassi ... tell me : is it a real TSRF of is it a TSRF hacked ? if it's an hacked one, i've got the packaging and the chassi if you want to investigate who had stolen you your name.

This chassis does not have the original wheels, tires, gears and rear axle as supplied by TSRF. The parts on your chassis appear to be of aftermarket origin. It means that what you purchased is not an original TSRF chassis stuck in original packaging, missing the parts necessary to mount a body using pin-tubing, pins and plastic stops for such, and with questionable tires for use on plastic track.

QUOTE i'm not going to by something in anni mini in paris, i don't like this shop... if we can't have tsrf in other shops, i'll find some other solutions.

Anni-Mini are not exclusive, and other retailers may purchase the cars from TSRF. Mondialtec is not one of them. Where did they obtain this chassis is questionable. If Mondialtec wishes to become a TSRF retailer, they may contact us and apply, and they are welcome to do so, we have no gripe against any dedicated retailer. This would avoid the sale of something that is not a legitimate TSRF product, obtained under questionable circumstances by your retailer.

QUOTE and for the end :

"This is in complete ignorance of 35 years of pro-racing progress..."
i'm not an ignorant.
i said in my story that i don't like this chassi, and that it will be possible to go and race with it! i didn't said that it was totaly wrong!
if you want to censor some parts of the story, tell me on my forum where this topic is open too : i don't want some problems with you, my hobby it sloting and not fighting

I am sure that you are a good guy in decent knowledge of the intricacies of favorite your hobby, and no one said that you are ignorant. It is your absolute right to like or dislike any product in your hands. I am against any form of censorship (as long as a discussion remains civil of course and except for foul language matters) and have been myself fighting against censorship on several forums as many here and on other forums may testify. As you can see on the TSRF Customer Forum and the TSRF's "Your Opinion Here", we do not censor ANYTHING except foul language or subjects irrelevant to the forum's basic purpose. Indeed, I would like your permission to post your comments on the TSRF Forum, so that others may help you with the problems you encountered.

I simply questioned what you were saying on your French site about the apparent misunderstanding of the function of the two major elements of the chassis. If you run a Flexi car in France, you know that the two parts of the steel chassis MUST be free and independent. The same is a must on the TSRF chassis and any interference will really hurt the handling.

Regardless, it appears to me that the main problem you have is one of traction, with inadequate tires and possibly a lack of proper weight balance on the chassis. Please get in touch with us at [email protected] and we will forward to you the missing and correct parts and tires for your car.

Dok Pea
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