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Kevan has linked the site I normally use. The Pig scales to about 125 x 69. It is extremely wide for 1/32 which makes it look large.

Note that the real car has the wheels tucked far inside the bodywork, as this was an aerodynamic experiment. I believe I recall that the chassis was a regular 917 and thus typical width, with the body being much wider and having the vortex generating tail. So really, the build should have the wheels tucked inside to be accurate, not out at the edges of the fenders like most cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Never tried the Lychee slicer mate, but Chappy said something about the model being a bit shorter (as in long /short body) than 1:1, although I remmember that somewhere I got this measurements:

3960 mm / 155.9 in long,
2216 mm / 87.2 in wide
926 mm / 36.5 in high

From there I made some math and the result is very close to the specs given by Chappy related to the file created by Nimrod.

Hope this helps

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Sadly, no luck with the HRS chasis ☹
The guide won’t turn freely so I’d have to cut almost the whole front (front air vents) or rise too much the body so that there’s enough space for the guide to turn.
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So I guess it will have to be a 3dp chasis, if any of you have one that works with the stock file measures for the body, please send me a PM .

In the mean time will try to advance with the pilots cockpit…

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
But should the HRS chassis allow you to move the guide back and forth?
Yes the HRS chasis has the guide and front wheels joined in a single plastic part that moves back and forth, unfortunately the alignment of the front wheel arches with the front wheels make the guide to stay too much at the front , so the guide actually is under the border of the body, just below the air intake. I could cut the air intake to make some space for the guide and wires but the body would lose that part.
I still haven’t figured out how to resolve this issue…
 

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[email protected] nice print that looks lovely.

[email protected] there are a couple of solutions. The HRS can use a separate front axle and guide mount if you want to buy the parts. Or....you know.....you have a printer, so you could theoretically build your own.

I did move the guide back slightly on the chassis I printed. I use a short nose guide, though.
 

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Daniel, if that's the HRS2 chassis then you can fit two front axle units. For my SCX Nascar I fitted the axle only unit for the axles and the one with the guide holder just for the guide so I could adjust it separately to the front axle.

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Phone rotated photo but you can see the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Thanks Keith & Chappy, I’ll get a look at bits of that chasis and see what I can do, I’d like the HRS fitted as its easier to get the car homologated for Classic/Lemans racing series(you know people gets scared of the 3dp chasis as If it was cheating 🤪)

I’ll update you later.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Ok so followed Keiths advice and looked into the bag of bits of the HRS chasis , luckily I didn’t throw the bag to the basket or I wouldn’t have fixed the issue😅.

So put another axle holder to the chasis and used the Dremel to sand a bit of the front bumper from the inside of the body and bingo!
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Still have to work on the body posts and make a cockpit in the small space that’s available but I think It’s nearly done.😀

Cheers
 
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