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Hmmm. BLST?
Need to ponder this but maybe it could be incorporated. I personally prefer your last design Bill. K.I.S.S.

The canyon would certainly enable you to drop down to baseboard level for the join and it could be hidden by a strip of 'water'.
 

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QUOTE (Gundam2000 @ 26 Sep 2007, 18:27) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>#2 is the better track.

I am working on my own routed track an I have put the plastic sections in. was not hard and works well.

the problem with adding the digital bits to the wood instead of just using the plastic track is that the lane changes are sharp and you kinda need the magnets on those sections. also the magnets assure the sensor is read.

I marked out the area for the xlcs and routed a pocket out. I used 12mm MDF so I went 9? mm deep and there are no gaps and the surfaces are level.

I had to remove the tabs and connector pins from the xlcs.

So, let's see some photos please.
 

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Depending on the direction of travel I don't think the elevated section will prove a problem. Left to right especially, as the track is only two feet deep. I guess it's only one car at a time so crashes aren't going to be damaging, unless you fall on the floor.


In fact if the two R1s are replaced with hairpins and a couple of half straights there would be room for the, now famous, Lane Swerve Chicane!
 

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QUOTE (RobBG @ 10 Mar 2008, 16:58) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I dont think they will fit will they Graham ? - it's all got to stay in 2 feet wide !

If you can move the two R1s in the direction of the arrows by half a straight each there is room for a, (dare I say it?) now famous, Lane Swerve Chicane in the middle. You need to buy two hairpin sets and cut the overlapping pair.



Sorry I don't have a track planner or I could provide a pitcure. Scaley don't do a, now famous.....etc. yet.
 

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Be afraid, be very afraid...nine thousand people are watching you!

Excellent start Bill. I shall be watching very closely because my next project is a routed rally section for my track. Please posting your experiences and tips. I'm interested to know how tight you can get the Luf strip before it breaks. When you are routing esses left-handers are tight radius than the curve to be cut and right-handers are looser radius, right? Does anyone know a company that supplies Luf strips to Italy? Or, does anyone have one I could borrow?
 

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These things are sent to try us Bill. I hope mine doesn't break, I can't get Bondo here! Nice to see the 3D shape coming together.
 

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Wonderful start to the scenery Bill! I used the same method for the sections of my track. However, fishing around underneath to find the hole for the bolt or trying to do it up proved too difficult and time-comsuming so I opted for sprung loaded clamps. They are so much quicker it's untrue. The pressure is high and they don't have to be positioned accurately. I still use the dowels though. I'll post a picture later. I hope that helps.
 

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QUOTE (jmswms @ 13 Apr 2008, 08:26) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>And, I worked a bit with a new "sandstone" rock mold. I'm still experimenting with colors. This was painted with tan, raw umber, and raw sienna. I used raw umber as the base color and then highlighted and lightened it with the raw sienna and tan. Still not happy with the way the colors look, but I'll keep experimenting on it.

The man's not happy!!!! I guess that's what it takes to be a perfectionist!
 

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QUOTE (SpaModeller @ 20 Apr 2008, 04:35) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Bill, This is really looking terrific. A very nice job done on the rocks, and I love the bridge. I remember somewhere from my modeling past reading about a fellow that went to a store specializing in indoor plants and bought some very small (and I mean-very small) cactii and planted them in those little plastic camera film containers, set down into the landscape. A drop or two of water 'bout every month seemed to keep them pretty happy, and they certainly did "look the part".

I remember those! That was in the days before Photoshop! Acutally I use quite a few of them for storing small spares.

Bill! What have you done? Turned a desert into an oasis, no less!
 

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QUOTE (rallyP @ 23 Apr 2008, 17:54) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Going on a rally track with no brakes is suicide.
So, who dies?


This is a super little track and I can't wait to see how Bill embellishes it, as I am sure he will. The top road was inspirational in making me change my viaduct, making it a main road with a tunnel at each end. Thanks Bill.
 

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QUOTE (bleep @ 26 Apr 2008, 07:49) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Bill,
Thank you very much the video is excellent, but what I'm really saying thank you for is the BRAKES comment I have recently started to race at my local club, they have an analogue track I have been borrowing a controller which I was beginning to thing was rubbish as I have no brakes!
but its My fault I'd forgotten the chip takes out the brakes


So now I'm in a quandary I'll have to have two sets of cars those with chips for my track and without for racing
Chip extraction begins this weekend


This is where DPR could come into it's own.


TVM
Bleep, that's exactly what I'm doing. I have just ordered a Slot.it Porsche 956 to go analogue racing at Noviello Slot Club, reserving all my other cars for my own track.
 

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It's been fun watching you build this lovely little circuit Bill. I'm really looking forward to seeing the hillclimb one being built too. It looks like a perfect design. Personally I think race tracks should be kept short, so the racing is close, and hillclimb and rally circuits should be kept long, so that there is an interesting driving experience.

I am using 6mm MDF for my valley whoch I guess is about 3/8" and it bends perfectly for the undulations. I shall be routing right the way through shortly. I just don't know whether to close the slot off afterwards or leave it open. At least dirt and dust, not to mention wing mirrors, etc., can just drop through out of harms way!

Thanks for sharing your build with us.
 

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Bill that last photo really sums up the essence of your track. Could you submit a high resolution version to the mods to add to the wallpaper photos on this site? It certainly deserves a place there.
 
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